Farmhouse Bed - Queen Sized

ana white farmhouse bed
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This beautiful farmhouse bed can be made for just a fraction of the cost to buy - all from standard, off the shelf lumber!  You won't need a pocket hole jig or any special tools to build.

This bed has been built thousands of times and is a reader favorite.  You can also find the twin version, king version, and all our farmhouse bed plans here.


Reader submitted photo by KARAPOTHIER 

Having a beautiful bed can transform any bedroom.  It's the most important piece in your bedroom, but can also be the most expensive.

ana white farmhouse bed

Over a decade ago, I built my first farmhouse bed (pictured above).  We still use it today, it's still as strong and sturdy and beautiful as ever.  And it only cost about $120 to build then - thousands less than buying!

Farmhouse Bed Plans

We updated the original farmhouse bed plans to use less tools, less materials, but be just as beautiful!  You won't need a pocket hole jig - just a drill, nailer and a saw, to tackle this project.

The plans are below.  Please let us know in the comments or add a brag post on how your farmhouse bed turned out.  Thank you for using our plans.

NOTE: This bed plan has been updated and improved.  If you need the original plans, we have created a printable PDF for your convenience.

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Queen Size Farmhouse Bed

diagram of queen farmhouse bed showing dimensions
Dimensions fit a standard Queen Mattress 60" x 80"


Shopping List
  • 12 - 2x4 8 feet long
  • 2 - 2x6 8 feet long
  • 2 - 1x10 8 feet long
  • 2 - 4x4 8 feet long
  • 1 - 2x2 8 feet long
  • 6 - 1x6 8 feet long
  • 4 - 1x4 8 feet long
  • 100 - 1-1/4" long brad nails
  • 75 - 2-1/2" long self tapping wood screws  (#8 star bit recommended)
Cut List


  • 2 - 4x4 @ 54"
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 30"
  • 11 - 1x6 @ 30" 
  • 2 - 1x4 @ about 60-1/2" - measure and cut to fit
  • 1 - 2x4@ 67-1/2" - measure and cut to fit
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 69-1/2" - measure and cut to fit


  • 2 - 4x4 @ 21"
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 8"
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 3"
  • 11 - 1x6 @ 15" 
  • 2 - 1x4 @ about 60-1/2" - measure and cut to fit
  • 1 - 2x4@ 67-1/2" - measure and cut to fit
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 69-1/2" - measure and cut to fit


  • 3 - 2x4 @ 83-1/2"
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 60-1/2"
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 12-1/2"
  • 2 - 1x10 @ 80"
  • 20 - 2x4 @ 32" - can be as short as 30" if you need to burn up scraps
Cutting Instructions

Cut all boards except as noted to measure and cut.  We recommend using a compound miter saw for the straightest cuts, but you can also use a circular saw and a carpenter's square - just make sure your cut ends are nice and straight.

Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander


Step 1

Attach the longest 2x2s to the longest 4x4s, flush to the back edge with 2-1/2" self tapping screws.  

Step 2

Layout the 30" 1x6 boards flat, side by side.  Measure the overall width of all the 1x6 boards.  Cut two 1x4s to this measurement.

Nail the 1x6 boards with glue to the 1x4s.  Apply glue between the 1x6 boards as you go.

Make sure the panel is built square by measuring opposite diagonals (outside top corner of 1x4 to outside bottom corner of opposite 1x4) and adjusting so the opposite diagonals match.

Step 3

Attach the headboard panel to the 2x2s on the legs with 2-1/2" screws.  Only screw to the headboard panel at the top and bottom portion backed by the 1x4s.

Also attach the panel from the front 1x6s to the 2x2s with 1-1/4" brad nails.

Step 4

Measure and cut the 2x4 for the top.  Attach with 2-1/2" screws.

Step 5

Repeat steps for the 2x6 top, leaving a 1" overhang on all four sides.

This completes the headboard build.

Step 6

The footboard is constructed exactly as the headboard, with the exception of the 2x2 cleats and the overall height.

Attach the 2x2 cleats with 2-1/2" screws.  The smaller cleat may split on you since the wood piece is so small.  You can predrill holes to help prevent wood from splitting.

Step 7

Build the panel and attach to the 2x2 cleats.

Step 8

Attach top 2x4 and 2x6 to the footboard with 2-1/2" screws.

Step 9

Attach the 2x4 cleat to the footboard, set in the 2x2 cleats, resting on the bottom cleat.  Use 2-1/2" screws to attach the 2x4 to the 4x4 legs.

Mark the headboard legs as shown in the diagram, and attach 2x4 cleat to the 4x4 legs with 2-1/2" screws.

Step 10

Use 2-1/2" screws to attach the headboard support between the cleats.

Step 11

Center legs add a ton of support and strength to the bed.  

First attach the shorter 2x4 "legs" to the center 2x4.  Then place the center 2x4 in place inside the bed, and attach to the footboard and the headboard 2x4.

Step 12

Measure and cut to fit the 1x10 siderails.  

Attach with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.

NOTE: If you find your 1x10s need to be attached at the top, you can buy small L brackets and use to attach 

Step 13

Cut the wood slats from remaining 2x4s and set inside the bed with about a 1/2" gap in between each slat.  You only need one screw on the siderail cleat to attach - but you can also add screws to the center support.



Finishing Instructions
Finish Used
I gave this bed an Antique White finish, but have done natural wood and other colors with the same success. I choose to distress this bed by lightly sanding outside edges. I also ran a flat bladed screwdriver down any groves in the planks to highlight the planking in the panel.


Kent (not verified)

Sun, 12/19/2010 - 05:40

I had the same issue. I finished building the headboard last night, and the middle panel piece doesn't look that bad actually.

Shannon King (not verified)

Tue, 12/21/2010 - 15:39

We are almost done with ours..including the box spring. We did some changes like attatching the side rails to the front of the 4x4 posts, because it wasn't big enough for our box spring the way the plans listed. We then lowered the inside frame to the very botton of the side rails. We did some modifications on bolts, and strength too. We drilled out 1.5 in holes and filled them with dowel to screw the bolts into because it didn't seem strong enough for the box spring and the wood is really heavy. We are almost done and I am a little sad that we had to make so many changes to make it strong enough and to fit our mattress set. I am also really disappointed that the foot board is so low. But at this point there is not much we could do without taking the whole footboard apart. I would make the 4x4's for the footboard alot taller if I was doing it again, it looks really low with the box spring, not what I wanted at all. I'll post a picture in a few weeks when it's all done.

Guest (not verified)

Sun, 10/30/2011 - 15:42

has anyone submitted proper instructions on the dimensions of a king size 80x76 with a box spring that is two pieces?

Sara (not verified)

Wed, 12/29/2010 - 09:01

We also had the same issue with the panel. We had to add 2 small panels on either side to make it look right.

Craig (not verified)

Tue, 01/04/2011 - 06:50

I think I am going to build this bed. We just upgraded to a Queen foam sans box spring and this will work out great. Good feedback from those who have found minor flaws on the plans.
Thanks Ana for the great DIY plans.
I continue to update and post some final pics.

Craig (not verified)

Tue, 01/04/2011 - 09:47

Question. If we foresee the need to disassemble the bed every so often what would you recommend for attaching the support joists to the side rails?
Here is what I was thinking for the head/foot boards and side rails.
Use bed rail fasteners for the side rails to head board and foot board and using a surface mounted keyhole bed rail bracket for the support joists.

I am going to make this frame for a foam mattress. I was thinking of recessing the support rails about an inch to lock the bed into the frame so it wouldn't slide off. Do you think I should put plywood down on top of the support rails?
I live in a small island town in Alaska so I'm not sure what the local hardware store carries yet but I found some good products on
Thanks Ana.

luv2cook (not verified)

Thu, 01/06/2011 - 03:25

I don't own and I have a deck that I could work on to put this bed together and to stain it. BUT, I don't have anything to cut with. Do you know if Home Depot or Lowe's would cut it for me, if I showed them the cut list? Does anyone know? I REALLY need a new bed frame and this looks just like the one I want. I heard Lowe's would cut it for me but is this a rumor? Does anyone know? Thanks!!

savvylili (not verified)

Sun, 01/16/2011 - 12:01

I love this bed! My husband and I were going to buy this one at World Market for our 2nd bedroom/guest bedroom: but after finding this Queen Farm House bed, we are looking forward to building it!

Also, I love the little red night table, any idea if there are plans for that here or where I might find something similar??

Thanks! And thank you for building this website, you are SO talented!


Scott (not verified)

Sat, 01/22/2011 - 21:42

I was just at Lowes today and they will make your cuts for $0.25 per cut. The store near me said they can't cut the 4x4 though...

Kent (not verified)

Mon, 01/24/2011 - 10:39

Yes, both lumber stores I went to carried non-PT posts. I would suggest paying the big bucks for the cedar. It will pay off in the long run by not having to see the pressure treatment scars every time you pass your bed! Just my thoughts on your predicament...good luck.

Leah (not verified)

Mon, 01/31/2011 - 03:29

Could this bed be easily changed to look simmilar to PB's Hudson by replacing the panels with a high quality 1 inch plywood and some quarter round trim? Has anyone tried it? I'm dying to get the hudson bed but my budget would never allow it, and when I saw these plans I had hope... here is the PB bed I was talking about:…

Teresa (not verified)

Tue, 02/08/2011 - 16:36

What exactly is the "antique wash" used on this bed? Is it watered down latex paint or a completely different product?


Haley Folmer (not verified)

Wed, 03/23/2011 - 21:25

Some of you have been asking about the illusive 4.5" screws.  I also went to HD and Lowes and found that they don't exist, so I went to my local hardware store and asked them what to do.  They handed me some 4.5" lag screws (with hex heads) and told me that they would be easier, and I had no idea what they meant by that until I actually assembled my bed.

Heres what I found (the hard way):
1.  You need 24 of them, not 20 (6 in each post times 4 posts).  You might even want to get some extra to attach the side rails since they are so strong and you'll already have the hang of it.
2.  You also need: a socket wrench and a hex bit to fit your lag screws (both a manual one and an electric bit).  ALSO, you need a flat drill bit that will be wide enough to allow your socket wrench to fit inside your hole.
2. Pre drill about an inch deep using a flat drill bit.  After your first hole, make sure you can fit your socket wrench in there!  If not, use a bigger drill bit.
3. Start screwing your lag in with the electric drill until it wimps out.
4. Tighten by hand with socket wrench.
5. Save your sawdust and mix with wood glue into a nice paste, and fill your holes.  Wait a couple of hours and sand it flat, filling any remaining dimples or grooves with wood filler and sand when that is dry.
Would regular 4.5" screws be better if you could find them?  I don't think they are as strong, personally.  This wood is so heavy... 
Thanks for the plans Ana!  Can't wait to finish my guest bed!!!!

Sarah M. (not verified)

Mon, 03/28/2011 - 22:19

Hi Ana,

I just love, love, love, your site! Thank you for all you do on here, it's so helpful to me and it saves me so much money!

I was wondering if you had plans to do this bed in a Twin XL. I have 2 boys that are really tall and they are in desperate need of new beds! We were going to purchase these Pottery Barn Beds (…), but I actually like your bed better! I showed my husband (who can build... with instructions :) and he thinks we might be able to do this. We would love to give it a try, but are unsure what the dimensions would be for the size we would like. Like I said, we would love to have Twin XL beds with a box spring. Would you be able to send me the materials, cut list, and instructions for this size?

Thank You So Very Much,
Sarah M.


Tue, 03/29/2011 - 22:09

I would really like to make this bed but we'll be moving fairly soon - how can I make this so it can come apart to move and get in and out of houses, and still be sturdy and look nice?

Thanks so much!


Mon, 04/11/2011 - 07:32

Rockler sells bed brackets that let you securely and non-permanently attach the rails to the head and foot board.  By far the easiest route.

The second, more traditional route is to cute a mortise through the legs and build the rails long enough that they go all the way through, and leave a little bit of room to wedge them with a key mortise on the other side.

A little bit of google-fu (and the fact that I grew up around woodworkers, so knew the terminology) found this for a good example of what I mean:…

It's something I wouldn't be afraid to tackle, but probably shouldn't be your first build.

Also, don't be intimidated by looking at that magazine and think that you need to be a middle-aged man with a beard to do "serious" woodworking.  My mom was a woodworker for years, and has never been either bearded or a middle aged man.

Harold (not verified)

Mon, 04/11/2011 - 02:04

The plans involving the 4x4 posts / queen sized farmhouse bed are ill thought out.

The problem being, if you build the head/foot boards to the specs, the 4x4s are 60" apart.  The exact size of the 60" queen mattress/box spring.  However, when you affix the 2x10 side rails, to the inside of the 4x4 posts, suddenly you lose 1.5" on each side (width of the 2x10s) and hence neither the box spring or mattress will fit.

So unless you want to just plop a large piece of ugly plywood down ontop of the whole thing, you have to find a way to chisel/route out slots in the 4x4s in the head board, and do god only knows what to make the foot board end work.

So if you want to make a queen sized farmhouse, i strongly suggest just scaling down the dimensions of the king that Ana designed so well, or if you must use the 4x4s, make your headboard/footboard 3" wider.  (measure your 2x10s to be sure they are indeed 1.5" thick, if they are not, then double their thickness and add that to the head/foot boards)

I discovered this only after making the entire head board and foot boards. Needless to say, i'm extremely angry that after spending $200 on wood/supplies and hours of work.

LoCrawford (not verified)

Sun, 06/24/2012 - 04:12

(1) If you're just using a mattress (no box spring), the slats that hold up the mattress should be afixed so the tops are at the same height as the side rails. The mattress isn't bound by the side rails and can just sit atop the whole base.

(2) If you plan to incorporate your box spring, attach 2x4s to the inside of the 4x4 posts. The 2x4s will hold up the box spring and the 2x10s (length stated in cut list) can be nailed to the outside of the 2x4s and will serve a decorative function only.

Both of the above methods are stated by Ana herself, one in her plans, the other in a comment listed before yours. Your problem sounds like a reading error instead of a design error to me. Hope this helps.

natalie&morgan (not verified)

Mon, 05/02/2011 - 18:48

hi ! we're making this bed for our daughter, in the full size version, and cannot find 4 1/2" screws ANYWHERE ! all our lumber and all the other supplies are bought already, we even bought an air compressor and a realllly expensive nail gun for this project.. dont know what to do now that we cant find nails that size.. please help !


Wed, 05/11/2011 - 02:36

has the plans for the bed been fixed about the discrepancy on the 1x8's not fitting and the mattress not fitting correctly or are they still incorrect?

Also to chime in with the crowd... could I just screw in my metal frame or would that ruin the bed or show through?


Wed, 05/11/2011 - 06:29

Just make the frame (joists) a little wider and the rails a little shorter, so you can attach to the front of the 4x4's, instead of the inner sides. It's just as easy. or if you haven't started, go ahead and extend the headboard. I admit I made the king, not the queen, but I found some great brackets from Rokler, that I'm going to attach to the front, not the sides, so it's easy to collapse to move.

Guest (not verified)

Tue, 05/24/2011 - 18:58

Ana -

I've been rummaging through my old barn and have discovered a treasury of old wood! I was wondering, for the sideboards, can I use 1x10s or does it need to be a 2x10?



Ralph S (not verified)

Sat, 05/28/2011 - 19:33

1*10s might be a bit thin if actually using to support the mattress\boxspring but if just decorative I don't see why they would not work.


Ralph S (not verified)

Sat, 05/28/2011 - 19:31

I have just started this project in Queen size. Being an apartment dweller with lots of restrictions on what we can do, I went over to a friends to do the cutting of the lumber. While visiting both the Orange Box and Blue Box building supply stores I was a bit surprised to find that 8" boards measured in at 7 1/4". So I have to go back and pick up some 1/4 inch filler. I am thinking Dowels or something similar to give a bit of a beaded look between the boards. Just need to get the Side Boards and Hangers before I have everything to complete it. Keep up the great site!

Mark (not verified)

Mon, 06/20/2011 - 20:19

Hey everyone, I'm in the process of building this bed, cost me just $300.00 (I live in Canada so prices on lumber may differ substantially). I just wanted to mention to all who are considering building this bed that YOU DO NOT USE PRESSURE TREATED 4X4 as the chemicals used in pressure treating can be very harmful and nasty (even if you get a sliver you can get a bad infection). They use arsnic and other harmful substances so I just thought I would put that out there. You can get untreated 4x4's...just ask for them at your lumber store!

Tim and Amy

Wed, 08/03/2011 - 06:39

Hi Ana,

We LOVE your blog. We just started building, and I've even got my mother hooked with plans of things to build! We started making the farmhouse queen this weekend and are staining it a dark walnut colour using minwax. It looks great, but there is no sheen at all and I'd like a more 'finished' look. I'm hesitant to use polyurethane due to the toxins, and am considerin watco teak oil. What is your experience with finishing stained pine products? Are there any alternatives that you can recommend that would be less toxic but still seal and give a bit of a shine?



Tue, 09/27/2011 - 12:03

Hi Amy,
We have used AFM Safecoat sealant on other wood projects and also plan to use it on the bed. It leaves a slightly shiny surface and seems to protect well although we just recently tried it. I would recommend giving that a try, they have a good reputation for being low toxicity and environmentally responsible.

1ofeach (not verified)

Sat, 08/13/2011 - 06:58

I know I'm missing it. Surely, the instructions to adapt this for king size (and king size WITH box springs) is here, and I'm just missing it. So, will someone hold my hand and show me where those are? Please?

Love your site!

Myn Nowell (not verified)

Thu, 08/25/2011 - 09:16

Hi Ana!!! I stumbled upon this bed and LOVE it!!!! My son is taking furniture making this year in school and has agreed to make this bed for me!!!! I am SO excited! Can you please tell me if you have the plans in King Size? If you could email them to me that would be AWESOME! I love all your work!



sara (not verified)

Fri, 09/02/2011 - 11:02

I heard about your site from my sister and I love it. I am going to build a queen and was wondering what would you recommend for wood and what do I need to use for the black look cause I was looking at something someone else posted and she said it did not turn out so I am a little worried.


Tue, 09/27/2011 - 11:51

We are almost done with our second farmhouse queen - one for us and one for the guest bedroom. This was my first woodworking project ever, and my husband's first big project. I plan to make a brag post when we get them stained. I just wanted to echo others' suggestions about reading all the comments and ideally, all of the plans for the various sizes before diving in.

We did come up with a great solution for making the bed easier to take apart for moving. We used Rockler Heavy Duty Wrought Steel Bed Fasteners to attach the frame to the headboard. However, this added a few hours to the construction time of the first bed (including brainstorming) and we expect it to add about 2-3 hours to the construction of the second bed, now that we've done it before. We had to borrow a router and learn to use that, and it takes a lot of precise measurements. However it seems very sturdy, we've been sleeping on ours for about a month without concern, and it comes apart relatively easily.

Thank you, Ana, for the great plans! We love how these have come out and are already starting on our next project!


Mon, 11/21/2011 - 00:46

We were looking around for a set of headboard/footboards, but I think I'm going to be building this one in the King size since we're upgrading. Thanks so much for your site!


Guest (not verified)

Tue, 11/22/2011 - 17:36

I just finished making the queen bed and I had to say Im impressed! Very sturdy! I did run into a problem with the length of the 1x8 making the headboard, and them not being long enough or in the case wide enough. I quickly solved the problem by using pencils to create a gap between the boards on the headboard to make up that space. Turned out pretty good! There is one that is off but you can only tell if you built the bed. No one will notice! Hope this helps!

Guest (not verified)

Wed, 11/30/2011 - 08:24

I don't know how else to contact the wonderful Ana, so I will simply comment here.

I think this is a wonderful site. The plans are simply to follow and give newbies like me the confidence to try new things. Do you have a section, or you could create a section that explains/ shows how to do some of the basics or explains the terms. Things like counter sink and butt (terms I do not know) are the only things keeping me from making any of these amazing projects . . . . :D

In reply to by Guest (not verified)


Wed, 11/30/2011 - 10:07

Hello. She responds more readily on Facebook under her page called Knock-Off Wood which this website used to be called. On this site, go under Community for answers to a bunch of your questions. There are also some articles listed under "Also of Interest" in the left column. Jump right in. I hesitated for quite some time and then once I started, was sorry I waited so long! Happy building!

Guest (not verified)

Sun, 12/18/2011 - 21:28

Thank You So Very Very Much for these plans!! I printed them out and asked for this to be my Christmas present. Hubby had already made the bedside table for my birthday..
My bed is now finished and I'm just waiting for Christmas!! The bed is absolutely beautiful and I want to thank you for making my Christmas extra Special this year! Love your site!! Hubby also made your wrapping station for me :)
You are a very Special Lady :) Thanks for sharing :)

Jason Steele (not verified)

Wed, 12/21/2011 - 09:27


I am done with my Headboard and the footer for my king bed that you have here. However, do you have any plans for how to make the frame for the box springs and mattress? I see them for the queen but not for the king. I don't wanna just "wing it" and try to come up with something. any help would RULE! LOVE the site and can't wait to build more stuff.