Farmhouse Bed - Queen Sized

Submitted by Ana White on Sun, 05/19/2019 - 13:30
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This beautiful farmhouse bed can be made for just a fraction of the cost to buy - all from standard, off the shelf lumber!  You won't need a pocket hole jig or any special tools to build.

This bed has been built thousands of times and is a reader favorite.  You can also find the twin version, king version, and all our farmhouse bed plans here.

White farmhouse bed with distressed edges built by Ana White

Having a beautiful bed can transform any bedroom.  It's the most important piece in your bedroom, but can also be the most expensive.

Over a decade ago, I built my first farmhouse bed (pictured above).  We still use it today, it's still as strong and sturdy and beautiful as ever.  And it only cost about $120 to build then - thousands less than buying!

Farmhouse Bed Plans

We updated the original farmhouse bed plans to use less tools, less materials, but be just as beautiful!  You won't need a pocket hole jig - just a drill, nailer and a saw, to tackle this project.

The plans are below.  Please let us know in the comments or add a brag post on how your farmhouse bed turned out.  Thank you for using our plans.

NOTE: This bed plan has been updated and improved.  If you need the original plans, we have created a printable PDF for your convenience.

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Queen Size Farmhouse Bed

diagram of queen farmhouse bed showing dimensions
Dimensions fit a standard Queen Mattress 60" x 80"


Shopping List

12 - 2x4 8 feet long

2 - 2x6 8 feet long

2 - 1x10 8 feet long

2 - 4x4 8 feet long

1 - 2x2 8 feet long

6 - 1x6 8 feet long

4 - 1x4 8 feet long

100 - 1-1/4" long brad nails

75 - 2-1/2" long self tapping wood screws 

Cut List


2 - 4x4 @ 54"

2 - 2x2 @ 30"

11 - 1x6 @ 30" 

2 - 1x4 @ about 60-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x4@ 67-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x6 @ 69-1/2" - measure and cut to fit


2 - 4x4 @ 21"

2 - 2x2 @ 8"

2 - 2x2 @ 3"

11 - 1x6 @ 15" 

2 - 1x4 @ about 60-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x4@ 67-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x6 @ 69-1/2" - measure and cut to fit


3 - 2x4 @ 83-1/2"

1 - 2x4 @ 60-1/2"

2 - 2x4 @ 12-1/2"

2 - 1x10 @ 80"

20 - 2x4 @ 32" - can be as short as 30" if you need to burn up scraps

Cutting Instructions

Cut all boards except as noted to measure and cut.  We recommend using a compound miter saw for the straightest cuts, but you can also use a circular saw and a carpenter's square - just make sure your cut ends are nice and straight.

Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander


Step 1

Attach the longest 2x2s to the longest 4x4s, flush to the back edge with 2-1/2" self tapping screws.  

Step 2

Layout the 30" 1x6 boards flat, side by side.  Measure the overall width of all the 1x6 boards.  Cut two 1x4s to this measurement.

Nail the 1x6 boards with glue to the 1x4s.  Apply glue between the 1x6 boards as you go.

Make sure the panel is built square by measuring opposite diagonals (outside top corner of 1x4 to outside bottom corner of opposite 1x4) and adjusting so the opposite diagonals match.

Step 3

Attach the headboard panel to the 2x2s on the legs with 2-1/2" screws.  Only screw to the headboard panel at the top and bottom portion backed by the 1x4s.

Also attach the panel from the front 1x6s to the 2x2s with 1-1/4" brad nails.

Step 4

Measure and cut the 2x4 for the top.  Attach with 2-1/2" screws.

Step 5

Repeat steps for the 2x6 top, leaving a 1" overhang on all four sides.

This completes the headboard build.

Step 6

The footboard is constructed exactly as the headboard, with the exception of the 2x2 cleats and the overall height.

Attach the 2x2 cleats with 2-1/2" screws.  The smaller cleat may split on you since the wood piece is so small.  You can predrill holes to help prevent wood from splitting.

Step 7

Build the panel and attach to the 2x2 cleats.

Step 8

Attach top 2x4 and 2x6 to the footboard with 2-1/2" screws.

Step 9

Attach the 2x4 cleat to the footboard, set in the 2x2 cleats, resting on the bottom cleat.  Use 2-1/2" screws to attach the 2x4 to the 4x4 legs.

Mark the headboard legs as shown in the diagram, and attach 2x4 cleat to the 4x4 legs with 2-1/2" screws.

Step 10

Use 2-1/2" screws to attach the headboard support between the cleats.

Step 11

Center legs add a ton of support and strength to the bed.  

First attach the shorter 2x4 "legs" to the center 2x4.  Then place the center 2x4 in place inside the bed, and attach to the footboard and the headboard 2x4.

Step 12

Measure and cut to fit the 1x10 siderails.  

Attach with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.

NOTE: If you find your 1x10s need to be attached at the top, you can buy small L brackets and use to attach 

Step 13

Cut the wood slats from remaining 2x4s and set inside the bed with about a 1/2" gap in between each slat.  You only need one screw on the siderail cleat to attach - but you can also add screws to the center support.



Finishing Instructions
Finish Used
I gave this bed an Antique White finish, but have done natural wood and other colors with the same success. I choose to distress this bed by lightly sanding outside edges. I also ran a flat bladed screwdriver down any groves in the planks to highlight the planking in the panel.


Ana White (not verified)

Mon, 11/30/2009 - 08:50

Hi Kathy, I would love to work on your order, but we live in Alaska - and the shipping is very expensive. I am not sure it would be economically feasable - this is a big part of the reason I became a furniture builder/designer - Pottery Barn, Restoration Hardware, Crate and Barrel, iKea - no body ships to Alaska!

You can build it, I promise! Just start with an easy project, like a kid's project. Take your time. It's just like quilting or scrapbooking, but 3D and the tools are a little louder. :)

I'm here to help. Just shoot me an email or comment if you have any questions.

Love, Ana

and amenities (not verified)

Mon, 12/07/2009 - 19:58

I was so excited to find you blog! We just built a new house and now we can afford to put some furniture in it by building it! :)

How would you construct the canopy for a queen bed? You may have already posted that somewhere, but I didn't see it. Thanks!

Ana White (not verified)

Sun, 12/13/2009 - 22:50

And Ammenities - I haven't forgotten about posting plans for a canopy - I'm just thinking about the safest and securest way to build the canopy without requiring special tools. Thank you so much for reading my blog! Ana

Family at the … (not verified)

Sun, 12/20/2009 - 18:27

Wow! I stumbled on this site just a little while ago and have been enjoying every bit of it! Our home should be completed this Spring, and I've been looking forward to putting furniture in it, but can't afford to buy what I want. Your plans could make those dreams a reality! Unfortunately, my husband isn't "handy" and I didn't grow up you have any recommendations for where/how to learn the basic skills I'll need? Thanks, Ana!


Bill (not verified)

Sun, 01/03/2010 - 16:01

This site is amazing, thank you for all of the effort that you must put into it. One question, is there a particular reason you chose pine? Doesn't that tend to be too soft? Just asking, since I am a complete and utter novice at this.


Ana White (not verified)

Sun, 01/03/2010 - 19:43

Hi Bill, Thanks for reading my blog!

I use pine primarily because it's cheap and it's readily available in all kinds of dimensional sizes.

Also, stores like Pottery Barn, West Elm, Restoration Hardware, and others are using lots of pine these days. The rustic modern look is in, and pine is perfect for this type of furniture. Check out Restoration Hardware's Farmhouse Table and Pottery Barn's Hyde Collection, and Sumner Buffet, among many many other pieces. All made of pine.

My house is also made of pine. And all the trim. And doors. And window frames. And yours most likely is too.

I have made lots of furniture with pine, and it lasts just fine. My bed is a few years old, and it's still beautiful, functional, and sturdy.

Pine is also easy to work with because it is softer. Nails don't split the wood. It cuts without burning.

Of course, if you have the money to spend on hardwoods (like maple or oak), buy it. But if you are like me and are very concerned about saving money, pine might just be your choice.

Plywood and MDF are also good choices for tight budgets. There is a post on this in the HOW-TO section.

Whew, I didn't mean to be so long winded!


Shanty 2 Chic (not verified)

Mon, 01/04/2010 - 17:16

Your site is AMAZING:) You are one talented girl!! I can't believe I have just found it but so glad I did. Love the detailed plans... Great Job!!!

GT (not verified)

Mon, 01/04/2010 - 20:22

Hi Ana!

You have a great site! Thank you so very much for sharing your knowledge and expertise.

I have been searching for plans on how to make this bed since my wife saw it in the PB catalog as well as the PB store, but we couldn't really justify spending $1600+ on it. :) By chance would you also have the plans or instructions for making the canopy to go with it? It will greatly be appreciated if you do! Thanks again for sharing knowledge with us!


Ana White (not verified)

Mon, 01/04/2010 - 20:33

Hi GT, this is something that has been on my mind for quite some time . . . how to safely build the canopy for the farmhouse bed. I know how I would do it, but I'm reserved about recommending it. What happens if it falls, and someone gets hurt?

The other thing is the posts are tapered, and you need a bandsaw to taper the posts. Of course you could rent a bandsaw or keep the posts untapered.

I am still thinking about this, and will post as soon as I feel right about recommending a plan.

In the meantime, you are going to love the farmhouse bed. It's my bed, and I LOVE IT! I am so happy you stopped by are enjoyed these plans.

GT (not verified)

Tue, 01/05/2010 - 05:24

Thanks for the quick reply, and I totally understand about the safety concerns especially in a lawsuit minded society these days. :) From what I have seen in the PB store and such they're using dowels or hanger bolts to attach them. It's definitely not something you can swing on. :)

In my personal opinion, I would keep the posts straight for an easier build/construction. Not everyone has a woodworking shop like Norm Abrams. :) I think by using at least 5 1/2 inch hanger bolts with tee nuts would be more than sufficient in anchoring the 4 posts. Plus the 4 rails at the top (1x2s) will add stability and strength to them. I think the canopy just add a special look to it and it's not made to be a jungle gym to hang from.:) LOL At least that is how I would approach it.

Thanks again for a great site and providing us with excellent building plans to start from!


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