Farmhouse Bed - Queen Sized

Submitted by Ana White on Sun, 05/19/2019 - 13:30
Difficulty
Intermediate
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This beautiful farmhouse bed can be made for just a fraction of the cost to buy - all from standard, off the shelf lumber!  You won't need a pocket hole jig or any special tools to build.

This bed has been built thousands of times and is a reader favorite.  You can also find the twin version, king version, and all our farmhouse bed plans here.

Collections
White farmhouse bed with distressed edges built by Ana White

Having a beautiful bed can transform any bedroom.  It's the most important piece in your bedroom, but can also be the most expensive.

Over a decade ago, I built my first farmhouse bed (pictured above).  We still use it today, it's still as strong and sturdy and beautiful as ever.  And it only cost about $120 to build then - thousands less than buying!

Farmhouse Bed Plans

We updated the original farmhouse bed plans to use less tools, less materials, but be just as beautiful!  You won't need a pocket hole jig - just a drill, nailer and a saw, to tackle this project.

The plans are below.  Please let us know in the comments or add a brag post on how your farmhouse bed turned out.  Thank you for using our plans.

 

NOTE: This bed plan has been updated and improved.  If you need the original plans, we have created a printable PDF for your convenience.

Dimensions
diagram of queen farmhouse bed showing dimensions
Dimensions fit a standard Queen Mattress 60" x 80"

Preparation

Shopping List

12 - 2x4 8 feet long

2 - 2x6 8 feet long

2 - 1x10 8 feet long

2 - 4x4 8 feet long

1 - 2x2 8 feet long

6 - 1x6 8 feet long

4 - 1x4 8 feet long

100 - 1-1/4" long brad nails

75 - 2-1/2" long self tapping wood screws 

Cut List

HEADBOARD CUT LIST

2 - 4x4 @ 54"

2 - 2x2 @ 30"

11 - 1x6 @ 30" 

2 - 1x4 @ about 60-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x4@ 67-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x6 @ 69-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

 

FOOTBOARD CUT LIST

2 - 4x4 @ 21"

2 - 2x2 @ 8"

2 - 2x2 @ 3"

11 - 1x6 @ 15" 

2 - 1x4 @ about 60-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x4@ 67-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x6 @ 69-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

 

MATTRESS SUPPORT FRAME/SIDERAILS

3 - 2x4 @ 83-1/2"

1 - 2x4 @ 60-1/2"

2 - 2x4 @ 12-1/2"

2 - 1x10 @ 80"

20 - 2x4 @ 32" - can be as short as 30" if you need to burn up scraps

Cutting Instructions

Cut all boards except as noted to measure and cut.  We recommend using a compound miter saw for the straightest cuts, but you can also use a circular saw and a carpenter's square - just make sure your cut ends are nice and straight.

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander

Instructions

Step 1

Attach the longest 2x2s to the longest 4x4s, flush to the back edge with 2-1/2" self tapping screws.  

Step 2

Layout the 30" 1x6 boards flat, side by side.  Measure the overall width of all the 1x6 boards.  Cut two 1x4s to this measurement.

Nail the 1x6 boards with glue to the 1x4s.  Apply glue between the 1x6 boards as you go.

Make sure the panel is built square by measuring opposite diagonals (outside top corner of 1x4 to outside bottom corner of opposite 1x4) and adjusting so the opposite diagonals match.

Step 3

Attach the headboard panel to the 2x2s on the legs with 2-1/2" screws.  Only screw to the headboard panel at the top and bottom portion backed by the 1x4s.

Also attach the panel from the front 1x6s to the 2x2s with 1-1/4" brad nails.

Step 4

Measure and cut the 2x4 for the top.  Attach with 2-1/2" screws.

Step 5

Repeat steps for the 2x6 top, leaving a 1" overhang on all four sides.

This completes the headboard build.

Step 6

The footboard is constructed exactly as the headboard, with the exception of the 2x2 cleats and the overall height.

Attach the 2x2 cleats with 2-1/2" screws.  The smaller cleat may split on you since the wood piece is so small.  You can predrill holes to help prevent wood from splitting.

Step 7

Build the panel and attach to the 2x2 cleats.

Step 8

Attach top 2x4 and 2x6 to the footboard with 2-1/2" screws.

Step 9

Attach the 2x4 cleat to the footboard, set in the 2x2 cleats, resting on the bottom cleat.  Use 2-1/2" screws to attach the 2x4 to the 4x4 legs.

Mark the headboard legs as shown in the diagram, and attach 2x4 cleat to the 4x4 legs with 2-1/2" screws.

Step 10

Use 2-1/2" screws to attach the headboard support between the cleats.

Step 11

Center legs add a ton of support and strength to the bed.  

First attach the shorter 2x4 "legs" to the center 2x4.  Then place the center 2x4 in place inside the bed, and attach to the footboard and the headboard 2x4.

Step 12

Measure and cut to fit the 1x10 siderails.  

Attach with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.

NOTE: If you find your 1x10s need to be attached at the top, you can buy small L brackets and use to attach 

Step 13

Cut the wood slats from remaining 2x4s and set inside the bed with about a 1/2" gap in between each slat.  You only need one screw on the siderail cleat to attach - but you can also add screws to the center support.

 

 

Finishing Instructions
Finish Used
I gave this bed an Antique White finish, but have done natural wood and other colors with the same success. I choose to distress this bed by lightly sanding outside edges. I also ran a flat bladed screwdriver down any groves in the planks to highlight the planking in the panel.
Help Improve This Plan

We apologize if there was an error in this plan. Please help us out and report any errors here.

Comments

waikoloasteve

Sat, 07/25/2015 - 01:28

Beautiful bed. Do you have the plans for a king sized version of this bed. I would really like to make this for my wife and I. Thank you

lewinsc

Wed, 09/30/2015 - 12:18

In the instruction you say to lay the 2x6 on top of the 2x4 and screw together. How are you screwing them together? through the top of the board? If that is the case how are you hiding the srews on the 2x6. If there is another method, please explain how that is done. I just dont think you want screw heads showing on the top of the head board or footboard. Thank you and I LOVE this bed. I plan on building one for my daughter.

ehart3000

Thu, 10/29/2015 - 06:30

I've made the queen sized version of this bed myself a year or so ago and it continues to get compliments from everyone who sees it.  I modified Ana's plan a bit for the bedrails and supports so that the bed can be disassembled and moved easily (easily is a relative term since this bed is HEAVY!).  You can see what I did step by step here.  Great project even for beginners!

jnikolow

Tue, 12/29/2015 - 18:09

if you use the brackets to connect the headboard/footboard posts to the rails, how sturdy is it?  Is there any wobbling at all?  It looks like there's only a few screws per bracket so im worried that it won't be a solid, sturdy fit.    I can't handle wobbly furniture.

mnunez58

Tue, 12/29/2015 - 15:42

Hello All,

I'm going to be making this bed for my daughters this weekend and am struggling to figure out how to connct the 4x4 post to the head board. From what I can gather the plans say to pre-drill and use a 4 1/2" screw. I can do that but was thinking of counter-sinking the screws so I can fill them in with wood putty or has anyone used pocket holes. Trying to figure out what would be the best and safest.

Thanks in advance.

jnikolow

Tue, 12/29/2015 - 18:02

Ok so I am trying to make this bed from the King Size version of the plans.

However, the king size version doesn't tell you how to attach the bed rails to the bed posts.

 

So I went to the Queen size version plans ... and my question was only 1/2 answered.  When you attach the bed rail to the HEADBOARD POSTS, there is plenty of room to screw into the post because all of the paneling is higher up.  Remember, the plans call for the rail to go on the insides of the posts.

 

However, when you try to attach the rail to the FOOTBOARD POST, you don't have any room to do it.  So i kept searching all these beds on here and the only thing I found was this, 

 

" Attach the bottom of the bed frame directly into the footboard"

Ok I obviously know i have to do that, but there are not directions telling me how.  If the rails are meant to go on the insides of the posts for the HEADBOARD, then they will have to go on the insides of the posts for the FOOTBOARD.  But there is no room for rail to go on the insides of the FOOTBOARD post because it is right where the paneling is.

 

Can someone please clarify this for me?

 

Thanks

Mikegarrod

Fri, 01/01/2016 - 10:08

Just wanting a bit of clarification as to how the frame attaches to footboard. The illustration shown doesn't make it clear exactly where the two are screwed/joined together. 

dthebate

Mon, 01/18/2016 - 13:08

In step 4, you say "optional." however, from the plan diagram it appears that the image you display is simply a support for the box spring. If I am using a box spring, should I set it down in the framing? or on top?

donly

Tue, 02/02/2016 - 17:19

Would like to  have the pattern for the full size using a box spring

 

thanks in advance