Farmhouse Bed - Queen Sized

Submitted by Ana White on Sun, 05/19/2019 - 13:30
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This beautiful farmhouse bed can be made for just a fraction of the cost to buy - all from standard, off the shelf lumber!  You won't need a pocket hole jig or any special tools to build.

This bed has been built thousands of times and is a reader favorite.  You can also find the twin version, king version, and all our farmhouse bed plans here.

White farmhouse bed with distressed edges built by Ana White

Having a beautiful bed can transform any bedroom.  It's the most important piece in your bedroom, but can also be the most expensive.

Over a decade ago, I built my first farmhouse bed (pictured above).  We still use it today, it's still as strong and sturdy and beautiful as ever.  And it only cost about $120 to build then - thousands less than buying!

Farmhouse Bed Plans

We updated the original farmhouse bed plans to use less tools, less materials, but be just as beautiful!  You won't need a pocket hole jig - just a drill, nailer and a saw, to tackle this project.

The plans are below.  Please let us know in the comments or add a brag post on how your farmhouse bed turned out.  Thank you for using our plans.


NOTE: This bed plan has been updated and improved.  If you need the original plans, we have created a printable PDF for your convenience.

diagram of queen farmhouse bed showing dimensions
Dimensions fit a standard Queen Mattress 60" x 80"


Shopping List

12 - 2x4 8 feet long

2 - 2x6 8 feet long

2 - 1x10 8 feet long

2 - 4x4 8 feet long

1 - 2x2 8 feet long

6 - 1x6 8 feet long

4 - 1x4 8 feet long

100 - 1-1/4" long brad nails

75 - 2-1/2" long self tapping wood screws 

Cut List


2 - 4x4 @ 54"

2 - 2x2 @ 30"

11 - 1x6 @ 30" 

2 - 1x4 @ about 60-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x4@ 67-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x6 @ 69-1/2" - measure and cut to fit



2 - 4x4 @ 21"

2 - 2x2 @ 8"

2 - 2x2 @ 3"

11 - 1x6 @ 15" 

2 - 1x4 @ about 60-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x4@ 67-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x6 @ 69-1/2" - measure and cut to fit



3 - 2x4 @ 83-1/2"

1 - 2x4 @ 60-1/2"

2 - 2x4 @ 12-1/2"

2 - 1x10 @ 80"

20 - 2x4 @ 32" - can be as short as 30" if you need to burn up scraps

Cutting Instructions

Cut all boards except as noted to measure and cut.  We recommend using a compound miter saw for the straightest cuts, but you can also use a circular saw and a carpenter's square - just make sure your cut ends are nice and straight.

Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander


Step 1

Attach the longest 2x2s to the longest 4x4s, flush to the back edge with 2-1/2" self tapping screws.  

Step 2

Layout the 30" 1x6 boards flat, side by side.  Measure the overall width of all the 1x6 boards.  Cut two 1x4s to this measurement.

Nail the 1x6 boards with glue to the 1x4s.  Apply glue between the 1x6 boards as you go.

Make sure the panel is built square by measuring opposite diagonals (outside top corner of 1x4 to outside bottom corner of opposite 1x4) and adjusting so the opposite diagonals match.

Step 3

Attach the headboard panel to the 2x2s on the legs with 2-1/2" screws.  Only screw to the headboard panel at the top and bottom portion backed by the 1x4s.

Also attach the panel from the front 1x6s to the 2x2s with 1-1/4" brad nails.

Step 4

Measure and cut the 2x4 for the top.  Attach with 2-1/2" screws.

Step 5

Repeat steps for the 2x6 top, leaving a 1" overhang on all four sides.

This completes the headboard build.

Step 6

The footboard is constructed exactly as the headboard, with the exception of the 2x2 cleats and the overall height.

Attach the 2x2 cleats with 2-1/2" screws.  The smaller cleat may split on you since the wood piece is so small.  You can predrill holes to help prevent wood from splitting.

Step 7

Build the panel and attach to the 2x2 cleats.

Step 8

Attach top 2x4 and 2x6 to the footboard with 2-1/2" screws.

Step 9

Attach the 2x4 cleat to the footboard, set in the 2x2 cleats, resting on the bottom cleat.  Use 2-1/2" screws to attach the 2x4 to the 4x4 legs.

Mark the headboard legs as shown in the diagram, and attach 2x4 cleat to the 4x4 legs with 2-1/2" screws.

Step 10

Use 2-1/2" screws to attach the headboard support between the cleats.

Step 11

Center legs add a ton of support and strength to the bed.  

First attach the shorter 2x4 "legs" to the center 2x4.  Then place the center 2x4 in place inside the bed, and attach to the footboard and the headboard 2x4.

Step 12

Measure and cut to fit the 1x10 siderails.  

Attach with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.

NOTE: If you find your 1x10s need to be attached at the top, you can buy small L brackets and use to attach 

Step 13

Cut the wood slats from remaining 2x4s and set inside the bed with about a 1/2" gap in between each slat.  You only need one screw on the siderail cleat to attach - but you can also add screws to the center support.



Finishing Instructions
Finish Used
I gave this bed an Antique White finish, but have done natural wood and other colors with the same success. I choose to distress this bed by lightly sanding outside edges. I also ran a flat bladed screwdriver down any groves in the planks to highlight the planking in the panel.



Sat, 12/17/2016 - 17:28

Can someone please tell me how and where they attached the 2x10 side rails? I used bed rail hardware and attached lining up the outside edge of the 4x4 post, but now the frame is way too wide and too long. If I go on the inside of the post and use bolts, I think it will be too narrow. Maybe go through the post and into the end of the 2x 10?? Please help, love the bed, but it is too big for my mattress! 


Mon, 01/30/2017 - 11:16

My first attempt at ever building a bed, but when you 13 year old daughter asked you to get her a bed just like this one I said I will try to find you one.....and jumped in and started to build her the bed she wanted!!   This is actually a very easy to build and I agree with others to be sure to read comments to help you out on a few questions or concerns that will come up building this bed pattern.

I used Pine to build the bed, only issue I had was finding 4x4 post untreated, so I used treated post and worked fine but remember what finsih you plan on gonig with could effect the outcome if you use treated post.   I was going to use a box springs so I modified the cross rails and used 2x4 instead of 2x6 to lower the box springs lower into the side rails keeping the bed from being so high up.    One thing I used and loved was i used Joist hangers to mount the side rails and cross rails which makes moving this bed a breeze!!  Cheap and very rewarding to say the least....joist hangers are a must as far as i  am concerned.


For the finish of the bed I took a oribital sanderand 80 &  120 grit paper and knocked the edges down on the 1x6's just on the face of the board to have that ship lap look but left the back side normal.   I also extended the very top 2x6 board on the head board to have a 1 1/4 overhang to give it a little more defintiion and like to my preference. 

I stained the bed Dark Chesnut Minwax and then painted Valspar vintage White over the top and once dried completly I distressed the bed with the orbital sander using 80 & 120 grit paper.    

One small jester I put into the bed that you Fathers out there that has as daughter that has you wrapped might appreciate and see where I was coming from when you see that I carved in the head board post " I Love Jessie" Dad  with a knife like kids used to do when they  was in love as a kid ........mainly so she will never forget that her dad built it for her....... Cheesy Im sure some will say but....... what we do for our kids.

Great Bed and Very pleased with the outcome





Sat, 03/11/2017 - 13:48

Love the bed and I am also making for my daughter. I've got the head and footboards made, but cannot figure out how to attach the rails to the footboard.  Do you have a pic you can share or let me know how you did it? I'm considering cutting an inch or so off the footboard so the side rails will hit the middle of the 4x4x and simply screw in from the front.  Thoughts?



Thu, 03/02/2017 - 05:25

why does this one call for 1 1/4 brad nails and the king call for 1 1/4 finish nails??


Wed, 12/27/2017 - 05:56

we are hoping to buy our king size mattress today.  Should we just get the mattress and build bed frame.  Are there any pros or cons to getting a box spring with the mattress?   Will it affect the look if we get the box spring with mattress ?  Thanks Ian 


Sun, 12/31/2017 - 05:06

I have a question regarding the queen size farmhouse bed. This is my first crack at building a bed and outside of the cost of wood in my area it's been a simple and enjoyable project for my son and I to tackle together.  I have modified the plans slightly to use removable rails and slat instead of a frame since we have a box sping and because we need to be able to easily disassemble the bed.  From the images and instructions, it appears as if the bottom of the rail is supposed to be even with the bottom of the footboard? I was hoping someone could confirm that for me.  Thanks!!


Fri, 02/23/2018 - 02:08

Hey guys, weird question but do any of you have an estimated idea of a possible weight capacity of this bed. I know it would depend on the quality of wood. I was thinking of using a good quality pine so it is still affordable. I would appreciate any feedback.  Love your stuff....:)


Wed, 05/22/2019 - 07:15

Hello, I see that this was updated on Sunday, however I was using the old blue prints and I am nearly done. However I do not see the instructions ANYWHERE

Does anyone have the older blueprints? I am 90% done and all the cuts are different with this updated version. PLEASE SOMEONE HELP   I am kind of desperate