Farmhouse Bed - Queen Sized

Difficulty

Intermediate

This beautiful farmhouse bed can be made for just a fraction of the cost to buy - all from standard, off the shelf lumber! You won't need a pocket hole jig or any special tools to build.

This bed has been built thousands of times and is a reader favorite. You can also find the twin version, king version, and all our farmhouse bed plans here.

Collections

Farmhouse Beds

White farmhouse bed with distressed edges built by Ana White

Having a beautiful bed can transform any bedroom. It's the most important piece in your bedroom, but can also be the most expensive.

Over a decade ago, I built my first farmhouse bed (pictured above). We still use it today, it's still as strong and sturdy and beautiful as ever. And it only cost about $120 to build then - thousands less than buying!

Farmhouse Bed Plans

We updated the original farmhouse bed plans to use less tools, less materials, but be just as beautiful! You won't need a pocket hole jig - just a drill, nailer and a saw, to tackle this project.

The plans are below. Please let us know in the comments or add a brag post on how your farmhouse bed turned out. Thank you for using our plans.

NOTE: This bed plan has been updated and improved. If you need the original plans, we have created a printable PDF for your convenience.

Dimensions

Dimensions fit a standard Queen Mattress 60" x 80"

Preparation

Shopping List

12 - 2x4 8 feet long

2 - 2x6 8 feet long

2 - 1x10 8 feet long

2 - 4x4 8 feet long

1 - 2x2 8 feet long

6 - 1x6 8 feet long

4 - 1x4 8 feet long

100 - 1-1/4" long brad nails

75 - 2-1/2" long self tapping wood screws

Cut List

HEADBOARD CUT LIST

2 - 4x4 @ 54"

2 - 2x2 @ 30"

11 - 1x6 @ 30"

2 - 1x4 @ about 60-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x4@ 67-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x6 @ 69-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

FOOTBOARD CUT LIST

2 - 4x4 @ 21"

2 - 2x2 @ 8"

2 - 2x2 @ 3"

11 - 1x6 @ 15"

2 - 1x4 @ about 60-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x4@ 67-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x6 @ 69-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

MATTRESS SUPPORT FRAME/SIDERAILS

3 - 2x4 @ 83-1/2"

1 - 2x4 @ 60-1/2"

2 - 2x4 @ 12-1/2"

2 - 1x10 @ 80"

20 - 2x4 @ 32" - can be as short as 30" if you need to burn up scraps

Cutting Instructions

Cut all boards except as noted to measure and cut. We recommend using a compound miter saw for the straightest cuts, but you can also use a circular saw and a carpenter's square - just make sure your cut ends are nice and straight.

Tools

Instructions

Step 1

diagram showing 2x2s attaching to the 4x4 legs

Attach the longest 2x2s to the longest 4x4s, flush to the back edge with 2-1/2" self tapping screws.

Step 2

diagram showing the headboard panel pieces

Layout the 30" 1x6 boards flat, side by side. Measure the overall width of all the 1x6 boards. Cut two 1x4s to this measurement.

Nail the 1x6 boards with glue to the 1x4s. Apply glue between the 1x6 boards as you go.

Make sure the panel is built square by measuring opposite diagonals (outside top corner of 1x4 to outside bottom corner of opposite 1x4) and adjusting so the opposite diagonals match.

Step 3

Diagram showing attaching headboard panel to legs

Attach the headboard panel to the 2x2s on the legs with 2-1/2" screws. Only screw to the headboard panel at the top and bottom portion backed by the 1x4s.

Also attach the panel from the front 1x6s to the 2x2s with 1-1/4" brad nails.

Step 4

Diagram showing attaching the 2x4 top to the headboard panel

Measure and cut the 2x4 for the top. Attach with 2-1/2" screws.

Step 5

Diagram showing attaching the 2x6 top to the headboard panel

Repeat steps for the 2x6 top, leaving a 1" overhang on all four sides.

This completes the headboard build.

Step 6

The footboard is constructed exactly as the headboard, with the exception of the 2x2 cleats and the overall height.

Attach the 2x2 cleats with 2-1/2" screws. The smaller cleat may split on you since the wood piece is so small. You can predrill holes to help prevent wood from splitting.

Step 7

Build the panel and attach to the 2x2 cleats.

Step 8

Attach top 2x4 and 2x6 to the footboard with 2-1/2" screws.

Step 9

diagram showing headboard and footboard attached to siderail cleats

Attach the 2x4 cleat to the footboard, set in the 2x2 cleats, resting on the bottom cleat. Use 2-1/2" screws to attach the 2x4 to the 4x4 legs.

Mark the headboard legs as shown in the diagram, and attach 2x4 cleat to the 4x4 legs with 2-1/2" screws.

Step 10

Use 2-1/2" screws to attach the headboard support between the cleats.

Step 11

diagram showing center legs on bed frame

Center legs add a ton of support and strength to the bed.

First attach the shorter 2x4 "legs" to the center 2x4. Then place the center 2x4 in place inside the bed, and attach to the footboard and the headboard 2x4.

Step 12

diagram showing the siderails attaching to the bed frame

Measure and cut to fit the 1x10 siderails.

Attach with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.

NOTE: If you find your 1x10s need to be attached at the top, you can buy small L brackets and use to attach

Step 13

Cut the wood slats from remaining 2x4s and set inside the bed with about a 1/2" gap in between each slat. You only need one screw on the siderail cleat to attach - but you can also add screws to the center support.

Finishing Instructions

Finish Used

I gave this bed an Antique White finish, but have done natural wood and other colors with the same success. I choose to distress this bed by lightly sanding outside edges. I also ran a flat bladed screwdriver down any groves in the planks to highlight the planking in the panel.

Help Improve This Plan

We apologize if there was an error in this plan. Please help us out and report any errors here.

Project Type

Beds and Bed Frames

Queen

Room

Bedroom

Style

Farmhouse Furniture

Comments

pixtonkids (not verified)

Fri, 04/23/2010 - 07:32

I am really having fits over

I am really having fits over trying to adjust this plan to be a daybed for my son's extra long twin. Could you please help me out with the measurements for the length of the boards between the 4 x 4's if I need the cleats to support a mattress that is 78"x38"??
I would really appreciate any help you could give me on this. I already made the upholstered beds for my two other sons and they look fab!

Virginie (not verified)

Mon, 04/26/2010 - 22:51

I have a quick question for

I have a quick question for you! I am ALMOST done, but I'm not sure how to fasten the very top piece of the head/foot boards.
I was not able to find 4 1/2 " screws, but I did find 5" ones. So would I just drill the 5" screws into the top piece, above the 4x4 posts but not in the middle/panel area? Perhaps use the smaller screws in the middle on top of the panel?

Thanks again Ana for all the inspiration you give!

Ana White (not verified)

Tue, 04/27/2010 - 05:48

Virginie, that would work!

Virginie, that would work! Or you could just use 3" screws - just make sure the top is on there good.

Meaghan Milliorn (not verified)

Mon, 05/10/2010 - 05:12

Yes, PLEASE update these

Yes, PLEASE update these plans to let people know the 1x8 is too short, and to use 1x10 instead for the planks. Our headboard came up too short also. We had to find some random piece of wood to make up for the gap. It worked, but I hate that it is a skinny piece and does not match the lovely wide 1x8 planks.

Sally (not verified)

Thu, 05/20/2010 - 09:17

Ana, can you explain how the

Ana, can you explain how the bed frame attaches behind the footboard?

Also, do you think this could covert easily with the loft plans?
I am trying to squeeze 3 grandkids in the same room!
Thanks Sally

Ana White (not verified)

Thu, 05/20/2010 - 10:43

Sally, the easiest way is to

Sally, the easiest way is to simply screw through the last "stud" in the bed frame directly into the footboard. You will want to use 2" screws. It's super easy. And yes, you could simply extend the 4x4 posts to create a loft bed (but we do have a few loft bed plans online too!). If you are interested in building this, I highly recommend research ALL of the Farmhouse beds, because I purposely designed plans slightly different to give you options when building. Good luck with your project!

Sally (not verified)

Fri, 05/21/2010 - 03:37

Thanks Ana, I am making it

Thanks Ana, I am making it either tonight or tomorrow. I just bought the lumber for $221. I bought grade A Eastern Pine.
I am slight altering one detail...I bought 6" hanging joists, (.84 cents each) - like you would use for a deck - for the bed frame, rather than run screws from the outside. 2 reasons...I think fastening the joist to the side rails will make it super easy to assemble once painted and all parts are in the room and also a little easier to disassemble if I ever have to move it!
I am planning on taking pictures along the way...I'll keep you all posted on how it goes.
Ana thanks again for such easy to follow plans!

Kerrin (not verified)

Mon, 05/24/2010 - 07:19

Question regarding 4 1/2"

Question regarding 4 1/2" SCREWS--

I picked up all the lumber for the bed. Now I just need to know what I need for screws. Are they lag bolts? Any help is appreciated.

I saw this question a few times but didn't see an answer. Sorry if I missed it somewhere.

Thanks so much Ana!

Maggie (not verified)

Fri, 06/18/2010 - 12:13

Kerrin- Someone further up

Kerrin- Someone further up suggested stopping by an actual hardware store (ACE, etc.) for the screws.

Christi Pobst (not verified)

Wed, 06/23/2010 - 11:40

Hi! Thanks so much for the

Hi! Thanks so much for the plans! I love this bed and hopefully will be making one soon!

My husband and I went to Lowes to check out the wood and see if it was possible for us to do. When we went to the first thing on the list was the
(4) 1” x 8” x 8’ Pine Board $24 (For Panels) At Lowes they were around $20 for one of the boards.
So my question is, where did you get your wood?

Thank You! e-mail me or repost here.
ladyplz(at)gmail(dot)com