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Farmhouse Bed - Queen Sized

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Submitted by Ana White on Sun, 05/19/2019 - 13:30
Difficulty
Intermediate
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This beautiful farmhouse bed can be made for just a fraction of the cost to buy - all from standard, off the shelf lumber!  You won't need a pocket hole jig or any special tools to build.

This bed has been built thousands of times and is a reader favorite.  You can also find the twin version, king version, and all our farmhouse bed plans here.

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Farmhouse Beds
White farmhouse bed with distressed edges built by Ana White

Having a beautiful bed can transform any bedroom.  It's the most important piece in your bedroom, but can also be the most expensive.

Over a decade ago, I built my first farmhouse bed (pictured above).  We still use it today, it's still as strong and sturdy and beautiful as ever.  And it only cost about $120 to build then - thousands less than buying!

Farmhouse Bed Plans

We updated the original farmhouse bed plans to use less tools, less materials, but be just as beautiful!  You won't need a pocket hole jig - just a drill, nailer and a saw, to tackle this project.

The plans are below.  Please let us know in the comments or add a brag post on how your farmhouse bed turned out.  Thank you for using our plans.

 

NOTE: This bed plan has been updated and improved.  If you need the original plans, we have created a printable PDF for your convenience.

Dimensions
diagram of queen farmhouse bed showing dimensions
Dimensions fit a standard Queen Mattress 60" x 80"

Preparation

Shopping List

12 - 2x4 8 feet long

2 - 2x6 8 feet long

2 - 1x10 8 feet long

2 - 4x4 8 feet long

1 - 2x2 8 feet long

6 - 1x6 8 feet long

4 - 1x4 8 feet long

100 - 1-1/4" long brad nails

75 - 2-1/2" long self tapping wood screws 

Cut List

HEADBOARD CUT LIST

2 - 4x4 @ 54"

2 - 2x2 @ 30"

11 - 1x6 @ 30" 

2 - 1x4 @ about 60-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x4@ 67-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x6 @ 69-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

 

FOOTBOARD CUT LIST

2 - 4x4 @ 21"

2 - 2x2 @ 8"

2 - 2x2 @ 3"

11 - 1x6 @ 15" 

2 - 1x4 @ about 60-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x4@ 67-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x6 @ 69-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

 

MATTRESS SUPPORT FRAME/SIDERAILS

3 - 2x4 @ 83-1/2"

1 - 2x4 @ 60-1/2"

2 - 2x4 @ 12-1/2"

2 - 1x10 @ 80"

20 - 2x4 @ 32" - can be as short as 30" if you need to burn up scraps

Cutting Instructions

Cut all boards except as noted to measure and cut.  We recommend using a compound miter saw for the straightest cuts, but you can also use a circular saw and a carpenter's square - just make sure your cut ends are nice and straight.

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander

Instructions

Step 1

diagram showing 2x2s attaching to the 4x4 legs

Attach the longest 2x2s to the longest 4x4s, flush to the back edge with 2-1/2" self tapping screws.  

Step 2

diagram showing the headboard panel pieces

Layout the 30" 1x6 boards flat, side by side.  Measure the overall width of all the 1x6 boards.  Cut two 1x4s to this measurement.

Nail the 1x6 boards with glue to the 1x4s.  Apply glue between the 1x6 boards as you go.

Make sure the panel is built square by measuring opposite diagonals (outside top corner of 1x4 to outside bottom corner of opposite 1x4) and adjusting so the opposite diagonals match.

Step 3

Diagram showing attaching headboard panel to legs

Attach the headboard panel to the 2x2s on the legs with 2-1/2" screws.  Only screw to the headboard panel at the top and bottom portion backed by the 1x4s.

Also attach the panel from the front 1x6s to the 2x2s with 1-1/4" brad nails.

Step 4

Diagram showing attaching the 2x4 top to the headboard panel

Measure and cut the 2x4 for the top.  Attach with 2-1/2" screws.

Step 5

Diagram showing attaching the 2x6 top to the headboard panel

Repeat steps for the 2x6 top, leaving a 1" overhang on all four sides.

This completes the headboard build.

Step 6

The footboard is constructed exactly as the headboard, with the exception of the 2x2 cleats and the overall height.

Attach the 2x2 cleats with 2-1/2" screws.  The smaller cleat may split on you since the wood piece is so small.  You can predrill holes to help prevent wood from splitting.

Step 7

Build the panel and attach to the 2x2 cleats.

Step 8

Attach top 2x4 and 2x6 to the footboard with 2-1/2" screws.

Step 9

diagram showing headboard and footboard attached to siderail cleats

Attach the 2x4 cleat to the footboard, set in the 2x2 cleats, resting on the bottom cleat.  Use 2-1/2" screws to attach the 2x4 to the 4x4 legs.

Mark the headboard legs as shown in the diagram, and attach 2x4 cleat to the 4x4 legs with 2-1/2" screws.

Step 10

diagram showing bed frame assembly

Use 2-1/2" screws to attach the headboard support between the cleats.

Step 11

diagram showing center legs on bed frame

Center legs add a ton of support and strength to the bed.  

First attach the shorter 2x4 "legs" to the center 2x4.  Then place the center 2x4 in place inside the bed, and attach to the footboard and the headboard 2x4.

Step 12

diagram showing the siderails attaching to the bed frame

Measure and cut to fit the 1x10 siderails.  

Attach with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.

NOTE: If you find your 1x10s need to be attached at the top, you can buy small L brackets and use to attach 

Step 13

Cut the wood slats from remaining 2x4s and set inside the bed with about a 1/2" gap in between each slat.  You only need one screw on the siderail cleat to attach - but you can also add screws to the center support.

 

 

Finishing Instructions
Finish Used
I gave this bed an Antique White finish, but have done natural wood and other colors with the same success. I choose to distress this bed by lightly sanding outside edges. I also ran a flat bladed screwdriver down any groves in the planks to highlight the planking in the panel.
Project Type
Beds and Bed Frames
Queen
Room
Bedroom
Style
Farmhouse Furniture

Comments

Ana White (not verified)

Tue, 06/29/2010 - 12:30

Christi, check the "whitewood" boards section. It's pine that hasn't been sanded and has knots in it for that rustic character. Should be half the cost or less.

Kat (not verified)

Thu, 07/15/2010 - 08:15

Anna we need you!! Building the full Farmhouse bed and have the headboard, footboard and slats cut but having trouble figuring out the boxspring issue! I am so worried about supporting that mattress and boxspring. Just screw cleats into the bottom inside of the siderail and lay boards across? Is it that easy?

Ana White (not verified)

Thu, 07/15/2010 - 08:17

Kat, if you have a boxspring, it's even easier - you can skip the slats. Without a box spring, you will need to lay slats according to your mattress recommendation for spacing. The cleats are very strong and with glue and screws, actually become integrated with those siderails. Good luck with your project! Ana

Matt (not verified)

Mon, 07/19/2010 - 17:21

Ana, do you have the cut and board list to make this a king size bed? I couldn't find them. thanks!

mrbeanfan (not verified)

Thu, 07/29/2010 - 17:42

Ana,
Awesome plans. I am very excited to build one of these. I too want to build for a king sized bed. In the plans, it mentions checking other beds for options with frame/box springs. My set will have a 5.5 inch high box spring. What modifications can/should i make to these plans--I wouldn't mind utilizing the side rail/cleat system under the box springs as it should be pretty solid. It's nice to know that making solid wood furniture with just basic tools really is not out of reach for most people!
Thank you again

mrbeanfan (not verified)

Fri, 07/30/2010 - 16:57

To those who had questions about the king dimensions: What worked for me was using 10 pieces of the 1x8 (mine was actually 7.25 inches!!) and 1x4 on each end...it came out to 79 7/8 inches...almost 80..i just modified the 1x4s to the exact same length.

My bed will fit right around my metal king bed frame. The bed is 76 wide, the frame is 76.25 with a widening at the end that goes to 77.5. I'll have about an inch to spare around the sides, the front and back don't matter because the frame is actually shorter than the bed...

Panels made today--waiting on 4x4 posts (which my lumber yard DOES normally carry-but were out today)..and I had to rob 1 1x4 to make the width come out. Therefore, i must wait..but it looks awesome so far!!!

mrbeanfan (not verified)

Fri, 07/30/2010 - 17:00

I would also recommend "dry fitting" the cut pieces to make the panels to make SURE you are getting the width (or close to it!) that you want...once you see it's the right dimension, then go ahead and glue it up and nail it together.

I also used torx screws on the BACK side of the headboard panel to ensure stability..2 inchers will do nicely, plunging into all 3 layers of wood..

new_mamma (not verified)

Fri, 09/10/2010 - 11:40

I love this bed! You are such an inspiration.

I would love to make this bed with hardwood panels (not MDF) instead of boards. I just don't know how or what size panels to use. I saw that some of your reader photos had panels instead of vertical boards and I wondered if they could tell us their dimensions and cut list!

Thanks,
Katie