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Farmhouse Bed - Standard King Size

farmhouse bed king size
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This stunning (and extra sturdy!) Farmhouse King Bed frame costs just a fraction to build vs buy.  It's made of solid wood and you won't need a ton of tools to whip it out.  You'll love the step by step diagrams, shopping list and cut list.

We also have Queen Farmhouse Bed Plans, and check out our full room build with this bed and matching nightstands. 

Reader submitted photo by JHAVINGA and Anonomous

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No Pocket Hole Plans

The very first real project that I ever tackled all by myself was this EXACT Farmhouse Bed in King size.

farmhouse bed grey paint

I remember being stunned at how well the project turned out.  And here we are, over a decade later, and it's still just as beautiful, just as sturdy, and I'm just as stunned.

The farmhouse beds have been built thousands of times and is a reader favorite.

What Wood Do You Use

We use standard off the shelf lumber to build - just framing lumber and common boards.  You can of course build with any type of wood, just make sure your material dimensions match dimensional lumber sizes (for example a 2x4 is actually 1-1/2" x 3-1/2").

Matching Nightstands

This bed is quite substantial and deserves matching nightstands.  I have put together nightstand plans that are designed to match - so you can get a full bedroom furniture set!

matching farmhouse nightstands

Updated Farmhouse King Bed Plans

We have updated these plans to be easier to build and not require pocket holes.  You can still access the old plans here.

If you need a different sized farmhouse bed, check out all our farmhouse bed plans here.

Pin For Later! 

Farmhouse Bed King Size

Dimensions
Dimensions diagram for king farmhouse bed
Designed to fit STANDARD king approximately 76" x 80

Preparation

Shopping List

2 - 4x4, 8 feet long

1 - 2x2, 8 feet long

7 - 1x6, 8 feet long

4 - 1x4, 8 feet long

2 - 2x6, 8 feet long OR stud length

2 - 1x10 OR 2x10 @ 8 feet long

18* - 2x4, 8 feet long OR stud length

2 small L brackets (1-1/2" wings)

2 straight brackets (6" overall length)

150 - 1-1/4" brad nails

150 - 2-1/2" self tapping wood screws (try SPAX or similar)

*Includes 11 2x4s for the mattress slats.  You can substitute 1x4s, 1x3s, ripped plywood etc for the slats if you have other materials on hand

Common Materials
Elmer's Wood Glue
Elmer's Wood Filler
Cut List

HEADBOARD CUT LIST

2 - 4x4 @ 54" - headboard legs

2 - 2x2 @ 30" - headboard cleats

14 - 1x6 @ 30" - headboard panel

2 - 1x4 @ about 77" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x4 @ about 84" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x6 @ about 86" - measure and cut to fit

FOOTBOARD CUT LIST

2 - 4x4 @ 21" - footboard legs

2 - 2x2 @ 8" - footboard cleats

2 - 2x2 @ 3" - footboard cleats

14 - 1x6 @ 15" - footboard panel

2 - 1x4 @ about 77" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x4 @ about 84" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x6 @ about 86" - measure and cut to fit

MATTRESS SUPPORT FRAME/SIDERAILS

4 - 2x4 @ 83-1/2" - mattress supports

1 - 2x4 @ ~77" - headboard tie in - cut to fit

4 - 2x4 @ 12-1/2" - center legs

2 - 1x10 or 2x10 @ 80"

11 - 2x4 @ ~77" cut to fit - mattress slats

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander

Instructions

Step 1

diagram of cleats attached to headboard legs

Attach 2x2 cleats flush to the back of the legs, with 2-1/2" screws

 

NOTE: Pocket hole users can skip this step

Step 2

diagram showing headboard panel construction

Layout the 1x6 headboard panels, and measure the overall width.

Cut 1x4 boards to this measurement.

Attach 1x6 boards to the 1x4s with glue and 1-1/4" brad nails from the back side to hide nail holes.

Make sure you apply glue between the 1x6 boards as you go.

Check to make sure that the panel is constructed square (NOT a parallelogram) 

 

POCKET HOLE USERS: Attach 1x4s to the 4x4 legs with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.  Then nail the 1x6s to the 1x4s inside the headboard panel.

Step 3

Attach panel to the 2x2 cleats with 2-1/2" screws and glue.  Also attach with a few 1-1/4" nails through front side into the 2x2 cleat where there is no 1x4.

 

POCKET HOLE USERS can skip this step

Step 4

diagram showing 2x4 attaching to the headboard panel

Measure the top overall width.  Cut a 2x4 to this width.  Attach with glue and screws to top of headboard.

Step 5

diagram showing 2x6 attached to the headboard panel

Cut a 2x6 2" longer than the 2x4.  

Attach with 1" overhang on all sides with 2-1/2" screws and glue.

This completes the headboard build.

Step 6

diagram showing 2x2 cleats attached to the 4x4 legs

The footboard is constructed the same as the headboard, with the exception of the 2x2 cleats on the back so that the siderail cleats can notch in.  

If you have trouble with your smaller 2x2 splitting try predrilling holes.

Step 7

diagram of footboard construction

Finish construction of the footboard exactly as you did the headboard.

Step 8

diagram of siderail cleats attaching to the headboard and footboard

Attach siderail cleats inside the footboard and to the headboard legs.  Use 2-1/2" screws to secure.

This completes the footboard.

Consider painting or staining your footboards and headboards and siderails now - then move all the pieces into the room for final assembly.

Step 9

Attach headboard support piece between the siderail cleats.

Step 10

Build the center legs - space the legs about 1/3 the way down - you don't have to be exact here.

Step 11

Attach the center legs inside the bed, splitting the spacing by about 1/3

Step 12

Attach siderails to the siderail cleats.

We recommend using brackets to attach siderails at the top to the headboard and footboard.

POCKET HOLE USERS: Drill a pocket hole at the top and attach.

Step 13

Cut slats and lay about 4" apart in the bed.
Screw down with 2-1/2" screws.

Project Type
Beds and Bed Frames
King Size Beds and King Bed Frames
Room
Bedroom
Style
Farmhouse Furniture

Comments

Katrina (not verified)

Sun, 11/28/2010 - 08:16

I have noticed that quite a few people have requested plans for a standard King size bed and not plans for one that has been turned side ways. Has anyone figured out the measurements or has it been posted somewhere on the web site. I am another one of the followers that is intimidated and frustrated trying to figure it out myself and I don't want to waste a bunch of money buying wood and messing the bed up. Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

Hollie (not verified)

Fri, 12/10/2010 - 10:36

Hi,
I love this!! My husband and I are planning on making this bed in the normal King size. Could you post the measurements for that? Thanks!

Shawna (not verified)

Tue, 01/04/2011 - 17:19

I wish you could do this also. I've never built anything before and am not the greatest when it comes to math and "re-figuring" something out. It seems way too daunting to try to figure out new measurements for this to make it the way the King is supposed to be turned. And I REALLY want to make this bed. The whole "mattress turned sideways" is stopping me!

Sara (not verified)

Fri, 01/07/2011 - 14:38

Hi Ana! My husband and I are making a farmhouse king...we did change some of the measurements so that it's 76 in wide. But I figure that we would have plenty of 1x8s to cut the panels, especially since it's less wide than your plans. But unfortunately we ran out of wood. Four 1x8s gave us all the 30 in panels and only 4 of the 15 in panels. We are going to have to buy a couple more. If you or anyone reading knows, did we measure wrong? Am I crazy?? Hehe. Thanks for any input!

Sharin W (not verified)

Wed, 01/12/2011 - 15:18

We are looking forward to building this when our house is finished, Looking at reusing some of the reclaimed wood off some of the old barns on the property to build, and then adding a canopy. This should look great in our 1904 farmhouse.

Kerrin (not verified)

Sun, 01/23/2011 - 05:37

Hi Ana~
Is there anyway that you could update this plan for a standard King? (Shopping list/cust list) I can't build it with the mattress turned because I don't have the extra 4 inches of space.

If anyone has done this and could offer some assistance, please email me. [email protected]

Thank you for the beautiful plans Ana.

Jenn (not verified)

Tue, 02/01/2011 - 08:58

I just stumbled across your website last week and have to say I'm in LOVE!

My Dad teaches shop class and I grew up using power tools, now I'm married to a tool-a-holic. I can frame a wall, wire up a house and install faucets...but I have always been stumped when it comes to building furniture! I've spent hours perusing free furniture plans on the internet but found most of them to be out of date, overly complicated or just not my style. Your site has exactly what I've been looking for!

I've already told my hubby that instead of making any plans for Valentine's day this year lets just spend some time together and make this awesome bed!

Thanks so much!

JessicaAndCorey (not verified)

Mon, 05/16/2011 - 09:02

I believe that it is available at Target currently. I was in the store just a couple of days ago & it was still available. In fact, if you search on the Target website under DwellStudio Bedding, it is the Mandala Bedding Collection. HTH!

Sherri R (not verified)

Thu, 02/10/2011 - 05:45

Please give plans for a standard king bed (not tuned sideways)! I really want to make this but I am intimidated by recalculating the sizes!!

Alex (not verified)

Sat, 02/12/2011 - 09:42

Hi, My wife and I are really excited to make this bed but we had one point that needed clarifying, you said you turned your bed sideways, what would the measurements be for everything for a standard king arranged normally?

Thanks,
Alex

Gloria (not verified)

Fri, 02/18/2011 - 15:18

I just want to build the headboard (not the footboard) what would be my "supply list"--would it be?
For the Headboard, you will need:
Panel Pieces (center) 10 – 1x8s @ 30″
Panel Pieces (ends) 2 – 1x3s @ 30″
Panel Trim Pieces – 4 – 1×4 @ 80″
Legs – 2 – 4×4 Posts @ 54″
Bottom Header – 1 – 2×4 @ 87″
Top Heaer – 1 – 2×6 @ 89″

Cameron Mathews (not verified)

Tue, 04/05/2011 - 07:12

You could replace the 1x3s on the end with 1x2s  This would shrink it from 80 inches to 78 inches.  Standard King width is 76 inches.

Then take 2 inches off of everything else that goes width-wise, as follows:
Trim panels - 78"
2x4 top - 85"
2x6 top - 87"

ANOTHER option is to replace the 1x8 panels with 1x6 panels.  You will need 13 of them instead of 10 - this will equal 71.5" (if your 1x6 is 5.5 inches each).  Then use 2 - 1x3 pieces for the ends (at 2.5" each) to total 76.5".  Then, same as above, you would take 3.5" off of each as follows:
Trim panels - 76.5"
2x4 top - 83.5"
2x6 top - 85.5"

Hope this helps!

Another option (that I am thinking about) is replacing all the paneled pieces with a single sheet of 3/4" furniture-grade plywood to avoid the paneled look and just get a solid piece of wood.  Going to be evaluating cost on that one.

Enjoy!

Kevin MARCUS (not verified)

Wed, 04/20/2011 - 17:32

You need (5) 1x8 8' long i'm making this bed and followed the cut  pattern and found out i came up short when it came to the footboard. you need for the headboard 10 1x8@30" Thats 300" that totals 25' .The footboard you need 10 1x8@15" that totals 150" thattotals 12.5' for a total of 37.5' so 4@ 8' only totals 32' so you need a fifth 1x8

lynsrealm

Thu, 06/16/2011 - 21:31

I'm so glad I found your site. Thanks to HGTV for sending me your way! There are so many wonderful plans, I don't know where to start!

Guest (not verified)

Sat, 07/09/2011 - 08:12

A bit off topic, but can you tell me what the lovely color on the walls is? Just the shade I'm looking for!

Guest (not verified)

Tue, 09/20/2011 - 16:08

can you share where the bedspread is from? thank you!

mebohn

Tue, 10/04/2011 - 06:48

I'm having a REALLY hard time finding untreated 4x4's. Even private lumber companies in my area do not carry them. I don't want to stack 2x4's. Any suggestions? Am I looking in the wrong spots in the store?

Pswag

Tue, 10/04/2011 - 16:53

We are in the process of making this. We also had a hard time finding 4 x 4's. We glued 2x4's together and then filled the sides with stainable wood filler. I just finish sanding and staining them and they look great. Hope this helps.

chordjezter

Thu, 10/13/2011 - 11:03

I'm getting ready to make this bed soon and I have one question. I'm wanting to use the box springs. However since there are two twin size box-springs for my bed is it best to use slats on the cleats to support them? Is there a better way to support them? I was thinking of using 1 x 3's spaced 1 - 1.5" apart. Any reccomendations? (Also, is it necessary to attach the slats to the cleats? It seems like it would make it a lot harder when it's time to move the bed. I was thinking of maybe just attaching the head-most slat with screws to make sure the slats don't slide off the head-end)

AmberSkelley

Wed, 10/26/2011 - 19:51

I've been reading some of the different ways to fasten the side rails to the head board and footboard. Would it be possible to use the Kreg Jig to fasten the side rails to the footboard? Just trying to determine the best way before I start my project...... Thanks

Maggie B (not verified)

Sat, 11/26/2011 - 10:33

I love this idea and hope my husband will make it in the spring. If you read all the posts before you ask a question here, you'd probably find it has already been answered. I can't imagine she has time to re-adjust everyone's shopping list for their unique situations ... All the information I've read will be very helpful!

Guest (not verified)

Mon, 01/30/2012 - 18:54

I am looking at thie pictures of this and understand that the siderails are connected to the 4 x 4 post with a bolt. I am trying to figure out how the footboard is connect. It does not appear to be the same. Any info would be great.. I plan on starting this this weekend

guest (not verified)

Sat, 02/18/2012 - 13:33

Wow! Now YOU make a woman proud! You GO GIRL! Soooo awesome! You make me feel a little more courageous to getting close to a saw...
Thanks alot and many blessings to you!
Keep all those fingers!

Guest (not verified)

Wed, 02/22/2012 - 13:14

Does anyone know where the bedspread is from? I'm in LOVE.

April Tottle (not verified)

Thu, 03/08/2012 - 23:57

I have drooled over this quilt on www.target.com so I recognized it immediately.
It is DwellStudio for Target Mandala Quilt.
It seems to be discontinued as I haven't been able to get my hands on one. But I did see on a blog that someone bought theirs at Target on Clearance in King size for $56!!!! I have never seen it in my Target store (Biloxi, MS) but they don't carry stylish stuff it seems.

Guest (not verified)

Sat, 03/10/2012 - 16:42

I love the bed but can you tell me where you purchased the bed spread!?! LOVE!

birdsandsoap

Sun, 03/11/2012 - 11:29

The way this plan is designed, you attach an inside rail (that will hold up the mattress) to the inside edge of the bedposts. Then, attach the exterior rails to that. If you nail the side rail from the inside using 1 1/4" nails or screws, no hardware will be visible. It is the side rail (cleats) on the inside that do the work, the outer rail is aesthetic.
If you have a Kreg Jig, you can use pocket holes and attach the rails with screws.

Guest (not verified)

Tue, 03/20/2012 - 19:15

It says in the plan that it is based on standard dimensional lumber. Is it based on hardwood or softwood standards? For instance the 1 x 8 in the plan. Is it 3/4 inch by 7.25 inch or is it 7/8 inch thick or is it truly 1 inch thick? Thanks

Guest (not verified)

Tue, 03/20/2012 - 19:18

It says in the plan that it is based on standard dimensional lumber. Is it softwood or hardwood standards? For instance is the 1 x 8 actually 3/4 by 7.25, is it 7/8 inch thick or is it truly 1 inch thick. Also what type of wood do you use in your project?

birdsandsoap

Wed, 03/21/2012 - 00:15

When you purchase lumber from the store, it is given in nominal (in name only) dimensions. A standard 2x4 is actually 1 1/2 inches thick by 3 1/2 inches wide. Don't ask me why, it's just that way (I think it's because they start out that size before they are actually milled). So, looking at any of Ana's plans, her cut lists are always labeled nominally, but the math for the plans is for the actual numbers of board size/width. Most of Ana's plans call for inexpensive pine (soft), which is what I use because it fits my budget. I can't afford hardwoods like oak. For this bed, I used "Top Choice" pine from Lowes. The 2x6's, 2x4's, and 4x4's were fir, as they don't sell them in pine. What I've found on this site, is that the plans use the softwood dimensions; every board is a half inch narrower in actuality, except for the 1x's, they measure 3/4 inches thick.

rgh1948

Wed, 03/21/2012 - 09:06

For a little bit more I would suggest poplar, you'll find its straighter and easier to
drill into without overdrilling. I would also explore finding a smaller lumber yard/dealer
where the wood quality is far better. I recently did that and the #1 pine at this yard was called "clear" and didn't have a single knot in it. The #1 at the blue or orange stores has knots and isn't very straight.
Those stores will also list the actual dimension vs. nominal on their web site (at least blue does).
To answer the question why the shrinkage ? its do to the drying process after the milling.

Hope this helped.

Bob

Elabetly (not verified)

Tue, 06/05/2012 - 22:58

[quote]It says in the plan that it is based on standard dimensional lumber. Is it based on hardwood or softwood standards? For instance the 1 x 8 in the plan. Is it 3/4 inch by 7.25 inch or is it 7/8 inch thick or is it truly 1 inch thick? Thanks[/quote]
Hey guys,

I couldn't agree more. I really don[url=http://bestelectricshaverhq.org]'[/url]t get why more people just don't get it.

Great post, keep it up.

Cheers!

KateM (not verified)

Tue, 07/10/2012 - 09:53

My husband built this bed this weekend but we would prefer to use our own bed rails instead of building a frame and slats however we love the look of the siderails. any suggestions on how to attach them so we can achieve that look without sacrificing our expensice metal bed rail ?

ErinK7

Sun, 07/29/2012 - 20:03

I am wondering the same thing! Did you attach the headboard and footboard right to the metal frame? Would it be possible the add the siderails as a cosmetic finish?

mike g (not verified)

Sat, 10/27/2012 - 04:44

If you put your rails on the inside of the posts you bring the dimensions down to 77". Leaving only 1/2" clearance on each side.
The fit will depend on your joinery. Bedbolts will give you the 80", installing the rails on the inside of your post will give you the 76" I keep hearing about. How has this not been addressed?

Have fun
-Mike G

mvanmeg

Mon, 02/03/2014 - 13:29

Spoke to the folks at the lumber yard and they recommended tongue and groove lumber for the panel. It is 1X6 dimension but has the nice v joint, not flat. I'm looking forward to giving that a try. For those of you struggling to find the 1X lumber - that might work for you. It is a Home Hardware building centre.

usafhughes

Wed, 06/25/2014 - 20:40

Can someone please send me the plans for the regular way 76 inches wide 80 inches long.... [email protected]! I love this bed but me and my husband are both tall and need it the other way.

Greglujan

Sun, 07/27/2014 - 09:34

I think the shopping list above is off. You need more 1x8.
Otherwise, love the plans! Simple and easy to follow.

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!