This stunning (and extra sturdy!) Farmhouse King Bed frame costs just a fraction to build vs buy. It's made of solid wood and you won't need a ton of tools to whip it out. You'll love the step by step diagrams, shopping list and cut list.
We also have Queen Farmhouse Bed Plans, and check out our full room build with this bed and matching nightstands.
The very first real project that I ever tackled all by myself was this EXACT Farmhouse Bed in King size.
I remember being stunned at how well the project turned out. And here we are, over a decade later, and it's still just as beautiful, just as sturdy, and I'm just as stunned.
The farmhouse beds have been built thousands of times and is a reader favorite.
What Wood Do You Use
We use standard off the shelf lumber to build - just framing lumber and common boards. You can of course build with any type of wood, just make sure your material dimensions match dimensional lumber sizes (for example a 2x4 is actually 1-1/2" x 3-1/2").
Matching Nightstands
This bed is quite substantial and deserves matching nightstands. I have put together nightstand plans that are designed to match - so you can get a full bedroom furniture set!
Updated Farmhouse King Bed Plans
We have updated these plans to be easier to build and not require pocket holes. You can still access the old plans here.
If you need a different sized farmhouse bed, check out all our farmhouse bed plans here.
Preparation
2 - 4x4, 8 feet long
1 - 2x2, 8 feet long
7 - 1x6, 8 feet long
4 - 1x4, 8 feet long
2 - 2x6, 8 feet long OR stud length
2 - 1x10 OR 2x10 @ 8 feet long
18* - 2x4, 8 feet long OR stud length
2 small L brackets (1-1/2" wings)
2 straight brackets (6" overall length)
150 - 1-1/4" brad nails
150 - 2-1/2" self tapping wood screws (try SPAX or similar)
*Includes 11 2x4s for the mattress slats. You can substitute 1x4s, 1x3s, ripped plywood etc for the slats if you have other materials on hand
HEADBOARD CUT LIST
2 - 4x4 @ 54" - headboard legs
2 - 2x2 @ 30" - headboard cleats
14 - 1x6 @ 30" - headboard panel
2 - 1x4 @ about 77" - measure and cut to fit
1 - 2x4 @ about 84" - measure and cut to fit
1 - 2x6 @ about 86" - measure and cut to fit
FOOTBOARD CUT LIST
2 - 4x4 @ 21" - footboard legs
2 - 2x2 @ 8" - footboard cleats
2 - 2x2 @ 3" - footboard cleats
14 - 1x6 @ 15" - footboard panel
2 - 1x4 @ about 77" - measure and cut to fit
1 - 2x4 @ about 84" - measure and cut to fit
1 - 2x6 @ about 86" - measure and cut to fit
MATTRESS SUPPORT FRAME/SIDERAILS
4 - 2x4 @ 83-1/2" - mattress supports
1 - 2x4 @ ~77" - headboard tie in - cut to fit
4 - 2x4 @ 12-1/2" - center legs
2 - 1x10 or 2x10 @ 80"
11 - 2x4 @ ~77" cut to fit - mattress slats
Instructions
Step 1
Attach 2x2 cleats flush to the back of the legs, with 2-1/2" screws
NOTE: Pocket hole users can skip this step
Step 2
Layout the 1x6 headboard panels, and measure the overall width.
Cut 1x4 boards to this measurement.
Attach 1x6 boards to the 1x4s with glue and 1-1/4" brad nails from the back side to hide nail holes.
Make sure you apply glue between the 1x6 boards as you go.
Check to make sure that the panel is constructed square (NOT a parallelogram)
POCKET HOLE USERS: Attach 1x4s to the 4x4 legs with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. Then nail the 1x6s to the 1x4s inside the headboard panel.
Step 3
Attach panel to the 2x2 cleats with 2-1/2" screws and glue. Also attach with a few 1-1/4" nails through front side into the 2x2 cleat where there is no 1x4.
POCKET HOLE USERS can skip this step
Step 4
Measure the top overall width. Cut a 2x4 to this width. Attach with glue and screws to top of headboard.
Step 5
Cut a 2x6 2" longer than the 2x4.
Attach with 1" overhang on all sides with 2-1/2" screws and glue.
This completes the headboard build.
Step 6
The footboard is constructed the same as the headboard, with the exception of the 2x2 cleats on the back so that the siderail cleats can notch in.
If you have trouble with your smaller 2x2 splitting try predrilling holes.
Step 7
Finish construction of the footboard exactly as you did the headboard.
Step 8
Attach siderail cleats inside the footboard and to the headboard legs. Use 2-1/2" screws to secure.
This completes the footboard.
Consider painting or staining your footboards and headboards and siderails now - then move all the pieces into the room for final assembly.
Step 9
Attach headboard support piece between the siderail cleats.
Step 10
Build the center legs - space the legs about 1/3 the way down - you don't have to be exact here.
Step 11
Attach the center legs inside the bed, splitting the spacing by about 1/3
Step 12
Attach siderails to the siderail cleats.
We recommend using brackets to attach siderails at the top to the headboard and footboard.
POCKET HOLE USERS: Drill a pocket hole at the top and attach.
Step 13
Cut slats and lay about 4" apart in the bed.
Screw down with 2-1/2" screws.
Comments
Kate (not verified)
Tue, 01/19/2010 - 12:45
Love, love, love this bed!Can
Love, love, love this bed!
Can you please clear something up for me though?
When looking at the (colored) plans for the king size bedframe, I can't get the measurements to add up. Can you please tell me what I am doing wrong?
(10) 8" Panels = 80"
(2) 3" End Pieces = 6"
(2) 4" Posts = 8"
The total of all these pieces is 94".
I don't understand how the plans show an overall width of 89".
HELP...what am I doing wrong!!!!
Thank you so much! I can't wait to make this bed! I'm obsessed! :)
Kate (not verified)
Tue, 01/19/2010 - 12:58
Ok, by reading some of the
Ok, by reading some of the other comments I think I saw my question answered!
The "actual" measurements are different that the "nominal" measurement.
That makes sense!
Thanks anyway!
Kara (not verified)
Sun, 01/24/2010 - 16:35
Just built the King this
Just built the King this weekend. I wanted to note a few errors in the plans. On the shopping list, it calls for (4)1x8x8ft which is 384 inches. The plan calls for 10 30 inch pieces and 10 15 inch pieces which is 450 inches so you actually need (5) 1x8x8ft.
Also when you stack the 10 30 inch pieces with the 2 3 inch pieces the 80 inch band board is too long. I added a 3rd 3 inch piece an it it fit perfectly. Overall, it came out great. Great site, can wait to build more.
Don Current (not verified)
Fri, 07/01/2011 - 07:20
Corrections to plan
I wish there was a way to move comments like these to the top of the list so people don't miss them. I found the same thing as you. You need an additional 1x8 for a total of (5). I also found that two 1x3's weren't enough, so I went with 1"x4"s to make up the width on mine in place of the 1"x3"s and that worked also. Best thing to do would be to measure what the 1x8's are actually running when you buy your lumber and then determine what size "filler" pieces you need.
Michelle D (not verified)
Mon, 12/31/2012 - 07:46
Thank you for this
Thank you for this comment...wish we would have read it before shopping. We are in the middle of making this bed as well and found that (4) 1x8x8 ft was not enough to cut the pieces required. I would appreciate the plan materials list being updated. We are running into some other snags but I think that is more due to the lumber width (as is noted in the plan) and it should still be fine. Love the plan and the look...hoping to have my own brag photo and full review when it's done :)
Laurie (not verified)
Fri, 01/29/2010 - 20:46
I am amazed by your blog.
I am amazed by your blog. Thanks for going to all this work for us!
I feel like this is the dumbest question--- do you need to sand and prime the wood before you paint it? Can you tell this is my first project?
Ana White (not verified)
Mon, 02/01/2010 - 17:26
Hi Laurie, not a dumb
Hi Laurie, not a dumb question at all. I don't give alot of information on finishing because there is no right or wrong method to finishing - in other words, you get what you want. I would recommend sanding first to remove any hard edges, wood putty, or soften edges. Depending on your desired finish, you can prime first. If you are trying to keep the wood showning through the paint, I would recommend not priming. My best recommendation is to try out a variety of different finishes before painting.
Whitney (not verified)
Sun, 02/14/2010 - 13:27
My husband and I just got
My husband and I just got home from the store with our wood for this project! I'm super excited, but confused on one thing. We bought our wood from the "shopping list" and when we got back, we realized the "cut list" has 1x3s. They were not on the shopping list, so I'm wondering if I'm missing something or if we need to go back to the store tomorrow?
Anonymous (not verified)
Fri, 02/19/2010 - 12:30
I have been looking over the
I have been looking over the plans thoroughly since I very much want to make this bed. I believe a standard king size is 76 wide and 80 long, the 80" length is the same as for a queen. Your plans are geared towards 80" wide and 60" long. Also I can't figure out how in the Queen if you have 60" of space you can fit two 2x10s and 57" joists into a 60" space. 57+4 = 61" or maybe I'm confused
Ana White (not verified)
Fri, 02/19/2010 - 13:41
Okay, let's see if I can
Okay, let's see if I can tackle this question. There was a typo, but only in reference, the king should in fact be 80" long. The width of a standard king is 76". I made my bed (shown in the picture) 80" wide because we turned our mattress 90 degrees to get the bed to fit better in the room. This plan calls for a headboard of 80" wide. You can build yours 76" wide by resizing your panel boards.
The "cleats" in reference to the queen size are each only 1 1/2" wide, as a 2x board does not measure 2" in width, but 1 1/2".
I hope this makes sense.