This stunning (and extra sturdy!) Farmhouse King Bed frame costs just a fraction to build vs buy. It's made of solid wood and you won't need a ton of tools to whip it out. You'll love the step by step diagrams, shopping list and cut list.
We also have Queen Farmhouse Bed Plans, and check out our full room build with this bed and matching nightstands.
The very first real project that I ever tackled all by myself was this EXACT Farmhouse Bed in King size.
I remember being stunned at how well the project turned out. And here we are, over a decade later, and it's still just as beautiful, just as sturdy, and I'm just as stunned.
The farmhouse beds have been built thousands of times and is a reader favorite.
What Wood Do You Use
We use standard off the shelf lumber to build - just framing lumber and common boards. You can of course build with any type of wood, just make sure your material dimensions match dimensional lumber sizes (for example a 2x4 is actually 1-1/2" x 3-1/2").
Matching Nightstands
This bed is quite substantial and deserves matching nightstands. I have put together nightstand plans that are designed to match - so you can get a full bedroom furniture set!
Updated Farmhouse King Bed Plans
We have updated these plans to be easier to build and not require pocket holes. You can still access the old plans here.
If you need a different sized farmhouse bed, check out all our farmhouse bed plans here.
Preparation
2 - 4x4, 8 feet long
1 - 2x2, 8 feet long
7 - 1x6, 8 feet long
4 - 1x4, 8 feet long
2 - 2x6, 8 feet long OR stud length
2 - 1x10 OR 2x10 @ 8 feet long
18* - 2x4, 8 feet long OR stud length
2 small L brackets (1-1/2" wings)
2 straight brackets (6" overall length)
150 - 1-1/4" brad nails
150 - 2-1/2" self tapping wood screws (try SPAX or similar)
*Includes 11 2x4s for the mattress slats. You can substitute 1x4s, 1x3s, ripped plywood etc for the slats if you have other materials on hand
HEADBOARD CUT LIST
2 - 4x4 @ 54" - headboard legs
2 - 2x2 @ 30" - headboard cleats
14 - 1x6 @ 30" - headboard panel
2 - 1x4 @ about 77" - measure and cut to fit
1 - 2x4 @ about 84" - measure and cut to fit
1 - 2x6 @ about 86" - measure and cut to fit
FOOTBOARD CUT LIST
2 - 4x4 @ 21" - footboard legs
2 - 2x2 @ 8" - footboard cleats
2 - 2x2 @ 3" - footboard cleats
14 - 1x6 @ 15" - footboard panel
2 - 1x4 @ about 77" - measure and cut to fit
1 - 2x4 @ about 84" - measure and cut to fit
1 - 2x6 @ about 86" - measure and cut to fit
MATTRESS SUPPORT FRAME/SIDERAILS
4 - 2x4 @ 83-1/2" - mattress supports
1 - 2x4 @ ~77" - headboard tie in - cut to fit
4 - 2x4 @ 12-1/2" - center legs
2 - 1x10 or 2x10 @ 80"
11 - 2x4 @ ~77" cut to fit - mattress slats
Instructions
Step 1
Attach 2x2 cleats flush to the back of the legs, with 2-1/2" screws
NOTE: Pocket hole users can skip this step
Step 2
Layout the 1x6 headboard panels, and measure the overall width.
Cut 1x4 boards to this measurement.
Attach 1x6 boards to the 1x4s with glue and 1-1/4" brad nails from the back side to hide nail holes.
Make sure you apply glue between the 1x6 boards as you go.
Check to make sure that the panel is constructed square (NOT a parallelogram)
POCKET HOLE USERS: Attach 1x4s to the 4x4 legs with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. Then nail the 1x6s to the 1x4s inside the headboard panel.
Step 3
Attach panel to the 2x2 cleats with 2-1/2" screws and glue. Also attach with a few 1-1/4" nails through front side into the 2x2 cleat where there is no 1x4.
POCKET HOLE USERS can skip this step
Step 4
Measure the top overall width. Cut a 2x4 to this width. Attach with glue and screws to top of headboard.
Step 5
Cut a 2x6 2" longer than the 2x4.
Attach with 1" overhang on all sides with 2-1/2" screws and glue.
This completes the headboard build.
Step 6
The footboard is constructed the same as the headboard, with the exception of the 2x2 cleats on the back so that the siderail cleats can notch in.
If you have trouble with your smaller 2x2 splitting try predrilling holes.
Step 7
Finish construction of the footboard exactly as you did the headboard.
Step 8
Attach siderail cleats inside the footboard and to the headboard legs. Use 2-1/2" screws to secure.
This completes the footboard.
Consider painting or staining your footboards and headboards and siderails now - then move all the pieces into the room for final assembly.
Step 9
Attach headboard support piece between the siderail cleats.
Step 10
Build the center legs - space the legs about 1/3 the way down - you don't have to be exact here.
Step 11
Attach the center legs inside the bed, splitting the spacing by about 1/3
Step 12
Attach siderails to the siderail cleats.
We recommend using brackets to attach siderails at the top to the headboard and footboard.
POCKET HOLE USERS: Drill a pocket hole at the top and attach.
Step 13
Cut slats and lay about 4" apart in the bed.
Screw down with 2-1/2" screws.
We apologize if there was an error in this plan. Please help us out and report any errors here.
Comments
Ana White (not verified)
Fri, 02/19/2010 - 13:41
Okay, let's see if I can
Okay, let's see if I can tackle this question. There was a typo, but only in reference, the king should in fact be 80" long. The width of a standard king is 76". I made my bed (shown in the picture) 80" wide because we turned our mattress 90 degrees to get the bed to fit better in the room. This plan calls for a headboard of 80" wide. You can build yours 76" wide by resizing your panel boards.
The "cleats" in reference to the queen size are each only 1 1/2" wide, as a 2x board does not measure 2" in width, but 1 1/2".
I hope this makes sense.
Anonymous (not verified)
Fri, 02/19/2010 - 16:26
Thank you, that really makes
Thank you, that really makes sense, and I bet the bed being 80" long will feel roomier as well.
Anonymous (not verified)
Wed, 03/31/2010 - 06:12
Ana, we are going to make
Ana, we are going to make your bed this weekend, but would like to make the rails along with it. Could you put up the measurements for the King size rails and how you did it?
B (not verified)
Fri, 04/09/2010 - 06:48
First and foremost, I LOVE
First and foremost, I LOVE what you do. I stumbled upon your site about 2 weeks ago and have already built a bench that I found here last weekend. I have a question on the beds. Is there a way to make them so you can disassemble them easily for when you move or need to take them out of the room without having to unscrew the side boards?
Please, please please keep writing and inspiring your readers. Best. Site. Ever.
Twigs @ Twiggl… (not verified)
Mon, 06/14/2010 - 14:45
okay guys. i plan on making
okay guys. i plan on making this bed sometime this month. rough estimate of what it's going to cost me in material?
The Young Family (not verified)
Thu, 07/01/2010 - 04:29
It looks like all plans are
It looks like all plans are designed for no box spring. I can't seem to find what to build if we have box springs???
anonnymouse (not verified)
Wed, 09/15/2010 - 02:09
Could you post a shopping/cut
Could you post a shopping/cut list for a Kingsize bed NOT turned sideways (the mattress in the standard orientation)? My husband is 6'6" and can't fit on it sideways!
Thanks!
anonnymouse (not verified)
Wed, 09/15/2010 - 02:14
I would lower where you
I would lower where you attach the side rails 6-8 inches to accommodate a box spring- you also wouldn't need as many cross pieces underneath to support the mattress.
justinorr (not verified)
Sun, 09/19/2010 - 12:45
Just finished my king size
Just finished my king size farmhouse bed. It looks great! Thanks for the plans Ana. It can be seen in the photos section. (My Farmhouse Bed 1 and My Farmhouse Bed 2). It has the red and white plaid comforter. I used a flat black paint and attempted to distress. Also I found a good altenrative to the 1x8's is using a product called "Barn Siding" that I found at Lowe's. I think this will make the project cheaper and easier. On to night stands.....
Guest (not verified)
Mon, 05/09/2011 - 17:01
Barn Siding
Curious about the barn siding. Cannot find pictures of your finished product. Could you post a link?