Farmhouse Bed - Standard King Size

Submitted by Ana White on Tue, 05/28/2019 - 16:18
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This stunning (and extra sturdy!) Farmhouse King Bed frame costs just a fraction to build vs buy.  It's made of solid wood and you won't need a ton of tools to whip it out.  You'll love the step by step diagrams, shopping list and cut list.

We also have Queen Farmhouse Bed Plans, and check out our full room build with this bed and matching nightstands. 

Reader submitted photo by JHAVINGA

beautiful farmhouse bed in king size

The very first real project that I ever tackled all by myself was this EXACT Farmhouse Bed in King size.

farmhouse bed grey paint

I remember being stunned at how well the project turned out.  And here we are, over a decade later, and it's still just as beautiful, just as sturdy, and I'm just as stunned.

The farmhouse beds have been built thousands of times and is a reader favorite.


What Wood Do You Use

We use standard off the shelf lumber to build - just framing lumber and common boards.  You can of course build with any type of wood, just make sure your material dimensions match dimensional lumber sizes (for example a 2x4 is actually 1-1/2" x 3-1/2").


Matching Nightstands

This bed is quite substantial and deserves matching nightstands.  I have put together nightstand plans that are designed to match - so you can get a full bedroom furniture set!

matching farmhouse nightstands


Updated Farmhouse King Bed Plans

We have updated these plans to be easier to build and not require pocket holes.  You can still access the old plans here.

If you need a different sized farmhouse bed, check out all our farmhouse bed plans here.

Dimensions diagram for king farmhouse bed
Designed to fit STANDARD king approximately 76" x 80


Shopping List

2 - 4x4, 8 feet long

1 - 2x2, 8 feet long

7 - 1x6, 8 feet long

4 - 1x4, 8 feet long

2 - 2x6, 8 feet long OR stud length

2 - 1x10 OR 2x10 @ 8 feet long

18* - 2x4, 8 feet long OR stud length

2 small L brackets (1-1/2" wings)

2 straight brackets (6" overall length)

150 - 1-1/4" brad nails

150 - 2-1/2" self tapping wood screws (try SPAX or similar)

*Includes 11 2x4s for the mattress slats.  You can substitute 1x4s, 1x3s, ripped plywood etc for the slats if you have other materials on hand


Cut List


2 - 4x4 @ 54" - headboard legs

2 - 2x2 @ 30" - headboard cleats

14 - 1x6 @ 30" - headboard panel

2 - 1x4 @ about 77" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x4 @ about 84" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x6 @ about 86" - measure and cut to fit



2 - 4x4 @ 21" - footboard legs

2 - 2x2 @ 8" - footboard cleats

2 - 2x2 @ 3" - footboard cleats

14 - 1x6 @ 15" - footboard panel

2 - 1x4 @ about 77" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x4 @ about 84" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x6 @ about 86" - measure and cut to fit



4 - 2x4 @ 83-1/2" - mattress supports

1 - 2x4 @ ~77" - headboard tie in - cut to fit

4 - 2x4 @ 12-1/2" - center legs

2 - 1x10 or 2x10 @ 80"

11 - 2x4 @ ~77" cut to fit - mattress slats


Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander


Step 1

diagram of cleats attached to headboard legs

Attach 2x2 cleats flush to the back of the legs, with 2-1/2" screws


NOTE: Pocket hole users can skip this step

Step 2

diagram showing headboard panel construction

Layout the 1x6 headboard panels, and measure the overall width.

Cut 1x4 boards to this measurement.

Attach 1x6 boards to the 1x4s with glue and 1-1/4" brad nails from the back side to hide nail holes.

Make sure you apply glue between the 1x6 boards as you go.

Check to make sure that the panel is constructed square (NOT a parallelogram) 


POCKET HOLE USERS: Attach 1x4s to the 4x4 legs with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.  Then nail the 1x6s to the 1x4s inside the headboard panel.

Step 3

Attach panel to the 2x2 cleats with 2-1/2" screws and glue.  Also attach with a few 1-1/4" nails through front side into the 2x2 cleat where there is no 1x4.


POCKET HOLE USERS can skip this step

Step 4

diagram showing 2x4 attaching to the headboard panel

Measure the top overall width.  Cut a 2x4 to this width.  Attach with glue and screws to top of headboard.

Step 5

diagram showing 2x6 attached to the headboard panel

Cut a 2x6 2" longer than the 2x4.  

Attach with 1" overhang on all sides with 2-1/2" screws and glue.

This completes the headboard build.

Step 6

diagram showing 2x2 cleats attached to the 4x4 legs

The footboard is constructed the same as the headboard, with the exception of the 2x2 cleats on the back so that the siderail cleats can notch in.  

If you have trouble with your smaller 2x2 splitting try predrilling holes.

Step 7

diagram of footboard construction

Finish construction of the footboard exactly as you did the headboard.

Step 8

diagram of siderail cleats attaching to the headboard and footboard

Attach siderail cleats inside the footboard and to the headboard legs.  Use 2-1/2" screws to secure.

This completes the footboard.

Consider painting or staining your footboards and headboards and siderails now - then move all the pieces into the room for final assembly.

Step 9

Attach headboard support piece between the siderail cleats.

Step 10

Build the center legs - space the legs about 1/3 the way down - you don't have to be exact here.

Step 11

Attach the center legs inside the bed, splitting the spacing by about 1/3

Step 12

Attach siderails to the siderail cleats.

We recommend using brackets to attach siderails at the top to the headboard and footboard.

POCKET HOLE USERS: Drill a pocket hole at the top and attach.

Step 13

Cut slats and lay about 4" apart in the bed.
Screw down with 2-1/2" screws.

Project Type



Wed, 10/26/2011 - 19:51

I've been reading some of the different ways to fasten the side rails to the head board and footboard. Would it be possible to use the Kreg Jig to fasten the side rails to the footboard? Just trying to determine the best way before I start my project...... Thanks

Maggie B (not verified)

Sat, 11/26/2011 - 10:33

I love this idea and hope my husband will make it in the spring. If you read all the posts before you ask a question here, you'd probably find it has already been answered. I can't imagine she has time to re-adjust everyone's shopping list for their unique situations ... All the information I've read will be very helpful!

Guest (not verified)

Mon, 01/30/2012 - 18:54

I am looking at thie pictures of this and understand that the siderails are connected to the 4 x 4 post with a bolt. I am trying to figure out how the footboard is connect. It does not appear to be the same. Any info would be great.. I plan on starting this this weekend

guest (not verified)

Sat, 02/18/2012 - 13:33

Wow! Now YOU make a woman proud! You GO GIRL! Soooo awesome! You make me feel a little more courageous to getting close to a saw...
Thanks alot and many blessings to you!
Keep all those fingers!

Guest (not verified)

Wed, 02/22/2012 - 13:14

Does anyone know where the bedspread is from? I'm in LOVE.

April Tottle (not verified)

Thu, 03/08/2012 - 23:57

I have drooled over this quilt on so I recognized it immediately.
It is DwellStudio for Target Mandala Quilt.
It seems to be discontinued as I haven't been able to get my hands on one. But I did see on a blog that someone bought theirs at Target on Clearance in King size for $56!!!! I have never seen it in my Target store (Biloxi, MS) but they don't carry stylish stuff it seems.

Guest (not verified)

Sat, 03/10/2012 - 16:42

I love the bed but can you tell me where you purchased the bed spread!?! LOVE!


Sun, 03/11/2012 - 11:29

The way this plan is designed, you attach an inside rail (that will hold up the mattress) to the inside edge of the bedposts. Then, attach the exterior rails to that. If you nail the side rail from the inside using 1 1/4" nails or screws, no hardware will be visible. It is the side rail (cleats) on the inside that do the work, the outer rail is aesthetic.
If you have a Kreg Jig, you can use pocket holes and attach the rails with screws.

Guest (not verified)

Tue, 03/20/2012 - 19:15

It says in the plan that it is based on standard dimensional lumber. Is it based on hardwood or softwood standards? For instance the 1 x 8 in the plan. Is it 3/4 inch by 7.25 inch or is it 7/8 inch thick or is it truly 1 inch thick? Thanks