Farmhouse Bed - Standard King Size

Submitted by Ana White on Tue, 05/28/2019 - 16:18
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This stunning (and extra sturdy!) Farmhouse King Bed frame costs just a fraction to build vs buy.  It's made of solid wood and you won't need a ton of tools to whip it out.  You'll love the step by step diagrams, shopping list and cut list.

We also have Queen Farmhouse Bed Plans, and check out our full room build with this bed and matching nightstands. 

Reader submitted photo by JHAVINGA

beautiful farmhouse bed in king size

The very first real project that I ever tackled all by myself was this EXACT Farmhouse Bed in King size.

farmhouse bed grey paint

I remember being stunned at how well the project turned out.  And here we are, over a decade later, and it's still just as beautiful, just as sturdy, and I'm just as stunned.

The farmhouse beds have been built thousands of times and is a reader favorite.


What Wood Do You Use

We use standard off the shelf lumber to build - just framing lumber and common boards.  You can of course build with any type of wood, just make sure your material dimensions match dimensional lumber sizes (for example a 2x4 is actually 1-1/2" x 3-1/2").


Matching Nightstands

This bed is quite substantial and deserves matching nightstands.  I have put together nightstand plans that are designed to match - so you can get a full bedroom furniture set!

matching farmhouse nightstands


Updated Farmhouse King Bed Plans

We have updated these plans to be easier to build and not require pocket holes.  You can still access the old plans here.

If you need a different sized farmhouse bed, check out all our farmhouse bed plans here.

Dimensions diagram for king farmhouse bed
Designed to fit STANDARD king approximately 76" x 80


Shopping List

2 - 4x4, 8 feet long

1 - 2x2, 8 feet long

7 - 1x6, 8 feet long

4 - 1x4, 8 feet long

2 - 2x6, 8 feet long OR stud length

2 - 1x10 OR 2x10 @ 8 feet long

18* - 2x4, 8 feet long OR stud length

2 small L brackets (1-1/2" wings)

2 straight brackets (6" overall length)

150 - 1-1/4" brad nails

150 - 2-1/2" self tapping wood screws (try SPAX or similar)

*Includes 11 2x4s for the mattress slats.  You can substitute 1x4s, 1x3s, ripped plywood etc for the slats if you have other materials on hand


Cut List


2 - 4x4 @ 54" - headboard legs

2 - 2x2 @ 30" - headboard cleats

14 - 1x6 @ 30" - headboard panel

2 - 1x4 @ about 77" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x4 @ about 84" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x6 @ about 86" - measure and cut to fit



2 - 4x4 @ 21" - footboard legs

2 - 2x2 @ 8" - footboard cleats

2 - 2x2 @ 3" - footboard cleats

14 - 1x6 @ 15" - footboard panel

2 - 1x4 @ about 77" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x4 @ about 84" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x6 @ about 86" - measure and cut to fit



4 - 2x4 @ 83-1/2" - mattress supports

1 - 2x4 @ ~77" - headboard tie in - cut to fit

4 - 2x4 @ 12-1/2" - center legs

2 - 1x10 or 2x10 @ 80"

11 - 2x4 @ ~77" cut to fit - mattress slats


Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander


Step 1

Attach 2x2 cleats flush to the back of the legs, with 2-1/2" screws


NOTE: Pocket hole users can skip this step

Step 2

Layout the 1x6 headboard panels, and measure the overall width.

Cut 1x4 boards to this measurement.

Attach 1x6 boards to the 1x4s with glue and 1-1/4" brad nails from the back side to hide nail holes.

Make sure you apply glue between the 1x6 boards as you go.

Check to make sure that the panel is constructed square (NOT a parallelogram) 


POCKET HOLE USERS: Attach 1x4s to the 4x4 legs with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.  Then nail the 1x6s to the 1x4s inside the headboard panel.

Step 3

Attach panel to the 2x2 cleats with 2-1/2" screws and glue.  Also attach with a few 1-1/4" nails through front side into the 2x2 cleat where there is no 1x4.


POCKET HOLE USERS can skip this step

Step 4

Measure the top overall width.  Cut a 2x4 to this width.  Attach with glue and screws to top of headboard.

Step 5

Cut a 2x6 2" longer than the 2x4.  

Attach with 1" overhang on all sides with 2-1/2" screws and glue.

This completes the headboard build.

Step 6

The footboard is constructed the same as the headboard, with the exception of the 2x2 cleats on the back so that the siderail cleats can notch in.  

If you have trouble with your smaller 2x2 splitting try predrilling holes.

Step 7

Finish construction of the footboard exactly as you did the headboard.

Step 8

Attach siderail cleats inside the footboard and to the headboard legs.  Use 2-1/2" screws to secure.

This completes the footboard.

Consider painting or staining your footboards and headboards and siderails now - then move all the pieces into the room for final assembly.

Step 9

Attach headboard support piece between the siderail cleats.

Step 10

Build the center legs - space the legs about 1/3 the way down - you don't have to be exact here.

Step 11

Attach the center legs inside the bed, splitting the spacing by about 1/3

Step 12

Attach siderails to the siderail cleats.

We recommend using brackets to attach siderails at the top to the headboard and footboard.

POCKET HOLE USERS: Drill a pocket hole at the top and attach.

Step 13

Cut slats and lay about 4" apart in the bed.
Screw down with 2-1/2" screws.



Sun, 03/11/2012 - 11:29

The way this plan is designed, you attach an inside rail (that will hold up the mattress) to the inside edge of the bedposts. Then, attach the exterior rails to that. If you nail the side rail from the inside using 1 1/4" nails or screws, no hardware will be visible. It is the side rail (cleats) on the inside that do the work, the outer rail is aesthetic.
If you have a Kreg Jig, you can use pocket holes and attach the rails with screws.

Guest (not verified)

Tue, 03/20/2012 - 19:15

It says in the plan that it is based on standard dimensional lumber. Is it based on hardwood or softwood standards? For instance the 1 x 8 in the plan. Is it 3/4 inch by 7.25 inch or is it 7/8 inch thick or is it truly 1 inch thick? Thanks

Guest (not verified)

Tue, 03/20/2012 - 19:18

It says in the plan that it is based on standard dimensional lumber. Is it softwood or hardwood standards? For instance is the 1 x 8 actually 3/4 by 7.25, is it 7/8 inch thick or is it truly 1 inch thick. Also what type of wood do you use in your project?

In reply to by Guest (not verified)


Wed, 03/21/2012 - 00:15

When you purchase lumber from the store, it is given in nominal (in name only) dimensions. A standard 2x4 is actually 1 1/2 inches thick by 3 1/2 inches wide. Don't ask me why, it's just that way (I think it's because they start out that size before they are actually milled). So, looking at any of Ana's plans, her cut lists are always labeled nominally, but the math for the plans is for the actual numbers of board size/width. Most of Ana's plans call for inexpensive pine (soft), which is what I use because it fits my budget. I can't afford hardwoods like oak. For this bed, I used "Top Choice" pine from Lowes. The 2x6's, 2x4's, and 4x4's were fir, as they don't sell them in pine. What I've found on this site, is that the plans use the softwood dimensions; every board is a half inch narrower in actuality, except for the 1x's, they measure 3/4 inches thick.


Wed, 03/21/2012 - 09:06

For a little bit more I would suggest poplar, you'll find its straighter and easier to
drill into without overdrilling. I would also explore finding a smaller lumber yard/dealer
where the wood quality is far better. I recently did that and the #1 pine at this yard was called "clear" and didn't have a single knot in it. The #1 at the blue or orange stores has knots and isn't very straight.
Those stores will also list the actual dimension vs. nominal on their web site (at least blue does).
To answer the question why the shrinkage ? its do to the drying process after the milling.

Hope this helped.


Elabetly (not verified)

Tue, 06/05/2012 - 22:58

[quote]It says in the plan that it is based on standard dimensional lumber. Is it based on hardwood or softwood standards? For instance the 1 x 8 in the plan. Is it 3/4 inch by 7.25 inch or is it 7/8 inch thick or is it truly 1 inch thick? Thanks[/quote]
Hey guys,

I couldn't agree more. I really don[url=]'[/url]t get why more people just don't get it.

Great post, keep it up.


KateM (not verified)

Tue, 07/10/2012 - 09:53

My husband built this bed this weekend but we would prefer to use our own bed rails instead of building a frame and slats however we love the look of the siderails. any suggestions on how to attach them so we can achieve that look without sacrificing our expensice metal bed rail ?


Sun, 07/29/2012 - 20:03

I am wondering the same thing! Did you attach the headboard and footboard right to the metal frame? Would it be possible the add the siderails as a cosmetic finish?