Farmhouse Bed (Twin Size)

Submitted by Ana White on Mon, 07/15/2019 - 12:21
Difficulty
Intermediate
| Print this plan

If you are looking for a classic farmhouse style bed for your child's room, this is the project for you. Featuring simple styling, large headboard and footboard tops, substantial legs, sturdy siderails, and the option to go with or without a boxspring, this beautiful bed is definitely worth your sweat! 

Step by step plans with diagrams and lots of readers submitted photos.  Check out all our Farmhouse Bed plans here.

farmhouse bed twin sized boy room painted blue
farmhouse bed with trundle

Reader submitted photo by KELLI224

This plan has been updated.  If you need the old plans, we have them available here.

Dimensions
farmhouse bed dimensions diagram ana white plans
Fits twin sized mattress

Preparation

Shopping List

3 - 1x6 @ 8 feet long

1 - 1x6 @ 4 feet long

2 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long

2 - 4x4 @ 8 feet long

1 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long

4 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long

2 - 2x6 @ 8 feet long

2 - 1x10 @ 8 feet long

6 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long

2 - 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" L brackets

2 - 3" long straight mending plate brackets

Common Materials
2 1/2 inch screws
1 1/4 inch finish nails
Cut List

HEADBOARD

  • 7 - 1x6 @ 30"
  • 2 - 1x4 @ ~38-1/2" - measure and cut to fit
  • 2 - 4x4 @ 54" 
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 30"
  • 2 - 2x4 @ ~45-1/2" - measure and cut to fit
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 47-1/2"

FOOTBOARD

  • 7 - 1x6 @ 15"
  • 2 - 1x4 @ ~38-1/2" - measure and cut to fit
  • 2 - 4x4 @ 21"
  • 4 - 2x2 @ 5-1/2" 
  • 2 - 2x4 @ ~45-1/2" - measure and cut to fit
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 47-1/2"

BED FRAME & SIDERAILS

  • 2 - 2x4 @ 80"
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 8-1/2"
  • 2 - 1x10 @ 75"
  • 12 - 1x3 @ 38-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

 

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander

Instructions

Step 1

Cut the 1x6 headboard boards with a miter saw (preferred) or circular saw with straight edge.

Lay out as shown in diagram.

Measure the overall width.

 

POCKET HOLE USERS: You can join the 1x6 boards together edge to edge with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Attach 1x4 on top and bottom, with all outside edges flush, with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.

Make sure the panel is square (not a parallelogram) by taking outside corner diagonal measurements and adjusting until the two opposite diagonals measurements match.

POCKET HOLE USERS: Drill two 3/4" pocket holes on each end of the 1x4 boards.  Attach to the 4x4 legs with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.  Then nail the 1x6 boards to the 1x4s.

Step 3

Use 2-1/2" screws to attach the 2x2 cleats to the inside back edge of the 4x4 legs.

POCKET HOLE USERS: Skip this step.

Step 4

Attach panels to the 2x2 cleats with 2-1/2" screws and 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.

POCKET HOLE USERS: Skip this step.

Step 5

Measure and cut the top 2x4.  Attach with 2-1/2" screws and glue.

Step 6

Place 2x6 on top of 2x4.  Make sure all outside edge overhangs are even.

Screw on with 2-1/2" screws and glue.

Step 7

Repeat the same steps for building the footboard panel.

Step 8

If using the cleats for attaching, leave a space in the cleats as shown for accepting the bed frame in later steps.

Step 9

Attach footboard panel as you did the headboard panel to the legs.

Step 10

Repeat steps to finish top of footboard.

Step 11

Attach 2x4 cleats to the 4x4 legs with 2-1/2" screws.

The spacer blocks are not attached and are just used as guides for setting up the bed.

Step 12

Place sidreails on cleats and attach with glue and 1-1/4" brad nails.

Also recommended is attaching with an L bracket and a straight bracket at tops.  Pocket hole users can use a 3/4" pocket hole and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

Step 13

Lay slats in bed frame, space evenly.  Screw down with 2" screws or 1-1/4" brad nails.

Comments

Krystal (not verified)

Thu, 03/04/2010 - 13:57

Working on it right now! Just realized it is short one 1x6...guess the footboard will have to wait until tomorrow! It has been way fun and easy to put together so far though! My son is going to LURVE it SO much!

The Snyder Family (not verified)

Tue, 03/09/2010 - 06:55

Just thought I would mention, now that I have actually assembled the bed that the cut list is not short a 1x6. If you do the foot board the recommended height...I had mine originally cut at 30" and realized the foot board is supposed to be about half as tall as the headboard...so the cut list is correct. Just thought I would post this to correct my previous post.

Stefanie (not verified)

Wed, 03/17/2010 - 15:50

Do you have an rec's on how to attach bed rail hangers? We're a military family and we move around a lot so we would have to make this bed to where it could come apart easily.

Emily Snow (not verified)

Sat, 03/27/2010 - 11:06

has anyone made this bed and stained it? if so...do you have an approximate price range you think was spent on the lumber for that? I am assuming the other prices are for the cheaper wood that you wouldn't stain, home depot and lowes both don't carry the posts and stuff in pine..i'll have to go to a lumber yard. just wondering.

Emily Snow (not verified)

Tue, 03/30/2010 - 05:11

now i'm discouraged bc lumber yards don't carry the 4 x 4 posts in the nicer stainable woods or the 2 x 6, or 2 x 4. Any ideas where to get some nice stainable wood at a decent price? i really want this bed for my boys.

Scott (not verified)

Fri, 04/02/2010 - 04:07

If you go to a lumber yard that carries hardwoods, you should be able to find 4x4 wood that will look better stained. However, 4x4 wood that is stainable can be incredibly expensive. Look for lumber yards that cater to woodworkers (if you live in SoCal, Eagle Rock Lumber is a good bet). You may be looking at a minimum of $4.00 a foot for basic clear pine, or much more for oak or walnut.

Scott (not verified)

Fri, 04/02/2010 - 12:15

UPDATE: I just came back from Lowe's and have this answer for Emily Snow's question about staining. A 1x6x8 of plain white wood was $5.92, for clear pine it was $14.77, and for oak it was $24.82. So, getting a good wood that will take a stain well will cost you anywhere between 400% and 500% of the cost if you get paint grade wood. Than again, this bed would look great in oak and become a family heirloom. Cheers!

Kelli Eudis (not verified)

Fri, 04/09/2010 - 07:29

Thank you Thank you!! You're awesome. My husband and I are going to make the this for our almost 3 yr. old girl. I will let you know how it turns out!

Jessica (not verified)

Sat, 04/10/2010 - 13:01

lindsy said...

Hi Ana
I'm going to start building 2 of these tomorrow. It sounds like you can use the metal frame instead of the cleats (with a boxspring) ... how exactly do you do this? Do you screw the metal frame to the rails so the boxspring sits on the metal frame??

I had the same question as Lindsy. Maybe it is somewhere else on the blog? does anyone have any recommendations on this?

Ana White (not verified)

Sat, 04/10/2010 - 14:44

The easiest way to use a metal frame is to just attach the footboard and headboard to the metal frame, with no siderails. Depending on your frame, you may be a able to also attach the siderails to the frame.