Farmhouse Bed (Twin Size)

Submitted by Ana White on Mon, 07/15/2019 - 12:21
Difficulty
Intermediate
| Print this plan

If you are looking for a classic farmhouse style bed for your child's room, this is the project for you. Featuring simple styling, large headboard and footboard tops, substantial legs, sturdy siderails, and the option to go with or without a boxspring, this beautiful bed is definitely worth your sweat! 

Step by step plans with diagrams and lots of readers submitted photos.  Check out all our Farmhouse Bed plans here.

Collections
farmhouse bed twin sized boy room painted blue
farmhouse bed with trundle

Reader submitted photo by KELLI224

This plan has been updated.  If you need the old plans, we have them available here.

Dimensions
farmhouse bed dimensions diagram ana white plans
Fits twin sized mattress

Preparation

Shopping List

3 - 1x6 @ 8 feet long

1 - 1x6 @ 4 feet long

2 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long

2 - 4x4 @ 8 feet long

1 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long

4 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long

2 - 2x6 @ 8 feet long

2 - 1x10 @ 8 feet long

6 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long

2 - 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" L brackets

2 - 3" long straight mending plate brackets

Common Materials
2 1/2 inch screws
1 1/4 inch finish nails
Cut List

HEADBOARD

  • 7 - 1x6 @ 30"
  • 2 - 1x4 @ ~38-1/2" - measure and cut to fit
  • 2 - 4x4 @ 54" 
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 30"
  • 2 - 2x4 @ ~45-1/2" - measure and cut to fit
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 47-1/2"

FOOTBOARD

  • 7 - 1x6 @ 15"
  • 2 - 1x4 @ ~38-1/2" - measure and cut to fit
  • 2 - 4x4 @ 21"
  • 4 - 2x2 @ 5-1/2" 
  • 2 - 2x4 @ ~45-1/2" - measure and cut to fit
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 47-1/2"

BED FRAME & SIDERAILS

  • 2 - 2x4 @ 80"
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 8-1/2"
  • 2 - 1x10 @ 75"
  • 12 - 1x3 @ 38-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

 

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander

Instructions

Step 1

Cut the 1x6 headboard boards with a miter saw (preferred) or circular saw with straight edge.

Lay out as shown in diagram.

Measure the overall width.

 

POCKET HOLE USERS: You can join the 1x6 boards together edge to edge with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Attach 1x4 on top and bottom, with all outside edges flush, with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.

Make sure the panel is square (not a parallelogram) by taking outside corner diagonal measurements and adjusting until the two opposite diagonals measurements match.

POCKET HOLE USERS: Drill two 3/4" pocket holes on each end of the 1x4 boards.  Attach to the 4x4 legs with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.  Then nail the 1x6 boards to the 1x4s.

Step 3

Use 2-1/2" screws to attach the 2x2 cleats to the inside back edge of the 4x4 legs.

POCKET HOLE USERS: Skip this step.

Step 4

Attach panels to the 2x2 cleats with 2-1/2" screws and 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.

POCKET HOLE USERS: Skip this step.

Step 5

Measure and cut the top 2x4.  Attach with 2-1/2" screws and glue.

Step 6

Place 2x6 on top of 2x4.  Make sure all outside edge overhangs are even.

Screw on with 2-1/2" screws and glue.

Step 7

Repeat the same steps for building the footboard panel.

Step 8

If using the cleats for attaching, leave a space in the cleats as shown for accepting the bed frame in later steps.

Step 9

Attach footboard panel as you did the headboard panel to the legs.

Step 10

Repeat steps to finish top of footboard.

Step 11

Attach 2x4 cleats to the 4x4 legs with 2-1/2" screws.

The spacer blocks are not attached and are just used as guides for setting up the bed.

Step 12

Place sidreails on cleats and attach with glue and 1-1/4" brad nails.

Also recommended is attaching with an L bracket and a straight bracket at tops.  Pocket hole users can use a 3/4" pocket hole and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

Step 13

Lay slats in bed frame, space evenly.  Screw down with 2" screws or 1-1/4" brad nails.

Comments

mom@home (not verified)

Thu, 04/07/2011 - 17:29

I love this bed! But I need two and would love for them to be able to convert to a bunk bed. Do you have plans for this farm house twin bed that are for bunk beds?
 

ShelleyP (not verified)

Mon, 05/02/2011 - 22:49

I was looking at all the comments hoping to see something about bunk beds and the last 2 are exactly that! I want to make this into bunk beds as well! Do you think you'll do plans for this?

Areka (not verified)

Tue, 05/10/2011 - 23:31

I an interested in making this with a trundle underneath as well and could not get the link you mentioned in the comments (above) to work. Is there an updated link? Thanks!!

Natalie&Morgan (not verified)

Fri, 05/13/2011 - 07:57

i am in the process of making the farmhouse, in full size, for my daughter.. needs to be finished for her bday on sunday..

i like the idea of the side rail cleats in this tutorial, so we can adjust the height for storage, but i dont understand how to convert the measurements from twin to full (this is my first build)..

so could anyone please provide me with the measurements of the cuts needed to make side rail cleats for a full/double size bed.. (cuts k,l & m) thanks !

Michelle C (not verified)

Sun, 05/22/2011 - 23:15

The 2 x 2 selection at our Lowes is pitiful. They are all cracked and warped. I thought I might use 2 x 4's for the slats instead. How far apart would it be best to place those for a twin bed? Just wondering! Thank you so much for these beautiful plans.
Michelle

Saadia (not verified)

Mon, 06/13/2011 - 23:43

Hello Ana and everyone,

I am interested in making this bed for my 3 1/2 year old daughter. However, I am concerned about the fact that the bed does not fit flush against a wall along the side. My daughter is still young and I don't want to worry about her falling in the side. Is there anyway to modify the bed so that the the bed rails are attached closer to the outer edge of the headboard/footboard posts. I am very new to building so I don't know if this modification would make the bed less sturdy or otherwise wouldn't work?

Thanks!

Jeff (not verified)

Fri, 02/17/2012 - 10:54

It doesn't look to me that you would want to attach the side rails further out. One possibility would be to cut a piece of foam rubber to fill up the gap.

Saadia (not verified)

Thu, 03/01/2012 - 22:13

Hi Jeff,

Would you mind explaining why that would be a problem? I understand that I would need to adjust the width of the headboard/footboard to make it work so that the mattress still fits properly, but since I am new to building, I just want to make sure that I don't do anything to mess up the structure and stability of the bed! I hope to make this for my daughter and want to make sure it's still safe! Plus I hate to have wasted space in any room and having the bed not flush against the wall is just wasted space!

Thanks for your help!
Saadia

guest (not verified)

Mon, 08/01/2011 - 08:54

I am in the process of building this bed for my daughter. Although ive had a few set backs its coming along. When attaching the panel to the legs someone please tell me what screws to use. I told my husband i thought we needed to use 4 1/2 screws and pre drill in the 4x4 but he seems to think it will split the 1x4 please help...