Farmhouse Bed (Twin Size)

Submitted by Ana White on Mon, 07/15/2019 - 12:21
Difficulty
Intermediate
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If you are looking for a classic farmhouse style bed for your child's room, this is the project for you. Featuring simple styling, large headboard and footboard tops, substantial legs, sturdy siderails, and the option to go with or without a boxspring, this beautiful bed is definitely worth your sweat! 

Step by step plans with diagrams and lots of readers submitted photos.  Check out all our Farmhouse Bed plans here.

farmhouse bed twin sized boy room painted blue
farmhouse bed with trundle

Reader submitted photo by KELLI224

This plan has been updated.  If you need the old plans, we have them available here.

Dimensions
farmhouse bed dimensions diagram ana white plans
Fits twin sized mattress

Preparation

Shopping List

3 - 1x6 @ 8 feet long

1 - 1x6 @ 4 feet long

2 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long

2 - 4x4 @ 8 feet long

1 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long

4 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long

2 - 2x6 @ 8 feet long

2 - 1x10 @ 8 feet long

6 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long

2 - 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" L brackets

2 - 3" long straight mending plate brackets

Common Materials
2 1/2 inch screws
1 1/4 inch finish nails
Cut List

HEADBOARD

  • 7 - 1x6 @ 30"
  • 2 - 1x4 @ ~38-1/2" - measure and cut to fit
  • 2 - 4x4 @ 54" 
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 30"
  • 2 - 2x4 @ ~45-1/2" - measure and cut to fit
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 47-1/2"

FOOTBOARD

  • 7 - 1x6 @ 15"
  • 2 - 1x4 @ ~38-1/2" - measure and cut to fit
  • 2 - 4x4 @ 21"
  • 4 - 2x2 @ 5-1/2" 
  • 2 - 2x4 @ ~45-1/2" - measure and cut to fit
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 47-1/2"

BED FRAME & SIDERAILS

  • 2 - 2x4 @ 80"
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 8-1/2"
  • 2 - 1x10 @ 75"
  • 12 - 1x3 @ 38-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

 

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander

Instructions

Step 1

Cut the 1x6 headboard boards with a miter saw (preferred) or circular saw with straight edge.

Lay out as shown in diagram.

Measure the overall width.

 

POCKET HOLE USERS: You can join the 1x6 boards together edge to edge with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Attach 1x4 on top and bottom, with all outside edges flush, with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.

Make sure the panel is square (not a parallelogram) by taking outside corner diagonal measurements and adjusting until the two opposite diagonals measurements match.

POCKET HOLE USERS: Drill two 3/4" pocket holes on each end of the 1x4 boards.  Attach to the 4x4 legs with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.  Then nail the 1x6 boards to the 1x4s.

Step 3

Use 2-1/2" screws to attach the 2x2 cleats to the inside back edge of the 4x4 legs.

POCKET HOLE USERS: Skip this step.

Step 4

Attach panels to the 2x2 cleats with 2-1/2" screws and 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.

POCKET HOLE USERS: Skip this step.

Step 5

Measure and cut the top 2x4.  Attach with 2-1/2" screws and glue.

Step 6

Place 2x6 on top of 2x4.  Make sure all outside edge overhangs are even.

Screw on with 2-1/2" screws and glue.

Step 7

Repeat the same steps for building the footboard panel.

Step 8

If using the cleats for attaching, leave a space in the cleats as shown for accepting the bed frame in later steps.

Step 9

Attach footboard panel as you did the headboard panel to the legs.

Step 10

Repeat steps to finish top of footboard.

Step 11

Attach 2x4 cleats to the 4x4 legs with 2-1/2" screws.

The spacer blocks are not attached and are just used as guides for setting up the bed.

Step 12

Place sidreails on cleats and attach with glue and 1-1/4" brad nails.

Also recommended is attaching with an L bracket and a straight bracket at tops.  Pocket hole users can use a 3/4" pocket hole and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

Step 13

Lay slats in bed frame, space evenly.  Screw down with 2" screws or 1-1/4" brad nails.

Comments

ChristiV

Tue, 12/27/2011 - 00:35

I'm so thankful for finding your site, I came to you from Shanty 2 Sheik, and I found that site when I was on www.stumbleupon.com a few days ago.

We have four kids and a tight budget and I was looking for bunk bed plans for our boys a few months ago. I searched and searched but all I could find was a couple of sites who had bunk bed plans for sale. I didn't see a point in paying for professional plans being an beginner; I need tips and help....not just plans.

So I just want to say thanks so much for sharing your know-how for free and creating a community where fellow thrifty moms can try something new and help each other out. I can't wait to get started on projects and I'll be sure to post brags!

June (not verified)

Fri, 01/06/2012 - 19:18

In the process of making this bed. Thanks, Ana for the wonderful, detailed plans! I just wanted to comment that untreated 4x4s are nowhere to be found where we live in the Southern US. We tried both big chain stores (orange and blue) and called 2 local lumber yards. All said they've never carried non-pressure treated 4x4s. Our only option was 4x4 cedar posts at $15 each. Any suggestions on something else we could use for the 4x4s or a way to improvise when we build this bed again in a king size? Thanks so much!

Tasha Cordel (not verified)

Thu, 02/02/2012 - 18:00

What is the best way to attach the fram to the headboard and footboard? And then do I just screw the siderails to the frame from the inside. OR do I attach the siderails to the headboard and footboard using kreg pocketholes and then attach the frame? I am building this for a girlfriends' daughter..and want to make sure it lasts a long time without falling apart! Thanks for the help....ANYONE - PLEASE!!

Daniel Dube (not verified)

Sat, 02/11/2012 - 22:22

Hey everyone,

Getting ready to build this bed for my two daughters. I would like to set it up to have a trundle underneath. Does anyone have a recommendation on what size mattress to use for the trundle and how I should adjust the height? Also need the top bed to be adjusted to accommodate only a mattress, no box sprint. Any and all advice is welcome.

t00court

Fri, 08/22/2014 - 16:39

These are my exact questions as well. I want to build this with no box spring, and would like to accommodate a trundle bed as well.
Did you ever get answers to your question? Thanks for sharing.

Guest (not verified)

Sun, 03/04/2012 - 07:06

I noticed the Queen sized version of this bed has a link to a "printer friendly version", but this one does not...any chance you can add? Thanks!

Great site by the way!

Saadia (not verified)

Sun, 03/11/2012 - 13:29

Hi,

I was wondering if anyone has tried making this bed with 1/2 inch thick boards for the paneling on the headboard/footboard? I think the 4x4 posts and 1 x boards are too bulky (and heavy!) for what I am looking for. I found some 1/2 inch thick pine boards that I could use for the paneling and am trying to get a hold of a 3x3 or 2/4 for the posts. I am just concerned about when I attach the posts to the headboard. I'm afraid I'll split the 1/2 inch panel when I screw into it. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

roosta (not verified)

Sat, 03/17/2012 - 12:37

just finished building this bed. looks amazing but weighs a tonne! i have used 1x8's for the side rails with 2x2 cleats attached and 1x4 slats spaced every 3 1/2 inches. also used galvanized plates for brackets on the side rails in order to disassemble. thanks anna :-) awesome site. will post to brag board soon....

NHMama (not verified)

Tue, 07/10/2012 - 12:36

I am looking to do the exact same thing for my 2 yr old (no box spring/use galvanized brackets) - I'm wondering... could you tell me the clearance below the side rails? I'm thinking of cutting off some height to make it lower to the ground, but wanted to keep at least a 7" clearance.