Farmhouse Bed plans for a small space! This bed packs lots of storage in a more compact profile. Detailed step by step plans to help you build your own DIY Farmhouse Bed in queen size.
Also check out our Full and Twin Farmhouse Storage Bed plans.
Reader submitted photo by BEEKEEPER has some modifications from plans
So excited to add this plan to the Farmhouse Bed Collection! Thank you for requesting!
Preparation
- 3 - Sheets 3/4" Plywood or other sheet goods
- 1 1/2 - Sheets 1/4" Plywood or other sheet goods
- 2 - 4x4 post, 7 feet long
- 2 - 1x4 @ 10 feet long
- 3 - 2x4 @ 10 feet long (cut longest first!)
- 5 - 1x10 @ 8 feet long (OR 1 sheet of 3/4" plywood cut into 5 strips 9 1/4" wide)
- 6 - Euro Style Drawer Slides (the cheapo white ones) 14" long, medium to heavy duty rating
- 2 - 2x6 @ 6 feet long
- 3 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
- 9 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long
- 5 - 1/4" hobby stock, 2 1/2" wide @ 8 feet long (OR 1/4" plywood cut into strips 2 1/2" wide)
- 4" Screws (if you are not using a pocket hole jig and will be attaching 4x4 legs to panels with screws)
- 6 Knobs or handles
NOTE: Drawers are optional - can be added later or just used as storage shelves. The shopping list DOES include materials for the drawers, so if not building drawers, please adjust shopping list accordingly
HEADBOARD
- 1 - 3/4" Plywood @ 26" x 53" (Can substitute planked wood for panel to create a more authentic "farmhouse" look)
- 2 - 1x4 @ 53"
- 2 - 4x4 @ 54"
- 2 - 2x4 @ 53"
- 1 - 2x4 @ 60"
- 1 - 2x6 @ 62"
FOOTBOARD
- 1 - 3/4" Plywood @ 15" x 53" (Can substitute planked wood for panel to create a more authentic "farmhouse" look)
- 2 - 1x4 @ 53"
- 2 - 4x4 @ 19"
- 2 - 2x4 @ 53"
- 1 - 2x4 @ 60"
- 1 - 2x6 @ 62"
STORAGE BOXES
- 4 - 3/4" Plywood @ 15 1/2" x 80 1/4"
- 8 - 3/4" Plywood @ 15 1/2" x 13 1/2"
- 2 - 1/4" Plywood @ 79 1/2" x 15"
SUPPORT & CENTER
- 2 - 2x2 @ 80 1/4"
- 4 - 2x2 @ 16 3/4"
- 18 - 1x3 @ 28 1/2" (Slats to mattress specs)
OPTIONAL DRAWER BOXES
- 12 - 1x10* @ 23 1/4"
- 12 - 1x10* @ 14"
- 6 - 1/4" Plywood @ 24 3/4" x 14"
*Plywood cut into 9 1/4" strips can be substituted for 1x10s, use at least 1/2" thick plywood; for direct conversion to cut list use 3/4" thick plywood
OPTIONAL DRAWER FACES
- 6 - 3/4" Plywood @ 25 1/2" x 13 1/4"
- 12 - 1/4" hobby stock, 2 1/2" wide @ 8 1/4"
- 12 - 1/4" hobby stock, 2 1/2" wide @ 25 1/2"
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
Instructions
Step 1
Have your hardware store rip the first piece into three equal sized strips, 15 1/2" wide. Then all you have to do is make the cross cuts at home. These cuts are from the 3/4" thick plywood.
Step 2
From another sheet of 3/4" plywood, have your hardware store rip into two 15 1/2" strips and one 13 1/4" strip. From these strips cut the following pieces.
Step 3
From the final 3/4" piece of plywood, cut it cross wise as noted in the diagram, and then cut your headboard and footboard panel from the larger half. From the remaining pieces, cut your remaining drawer faces as shown above.
Step 4
From the 1/4" plywood, cut the following pieces. You will need to either purchase an additional 1/2 sheet of plywood for the two remaining drawer bottoms, or you could use leftover 3/4" stock for the remaining two drawer bottoms.
Step 5
Step 6
This is a relatively easy task if you have a Kreg Jig - simply drill 3/4" pocket holes along sides of panel and attach to legs. Make sure you are leaving 1 1/2" to the back of the panel as shown above (Very important with footboard).
Step 7
Attach the bottom supports in the same manner as the panel, carefully locating as shown in diagram.
Step 8
Hooray, an easy step! Attach as shown above.
Step 9
Finally the crown. I'd screw on myself to minimize any gaps.
Step 10
The footboard is built just like the headboard - make sure you leave 1 1/2" to the back of the panel - see next step ...
Step 11
This is so your 2x4 spacers fit just right in the backs. Attach with screws and glue.
Step 12
You can build these with either a pocket hole jig or traditional screws. Build square if you are using drawers or your drawers will not slide right.
Step 13
Attach back to the boxes with finish nails and glue. Make sure you nail into all center dividers too. The back will help keep things straight and minimize sagging.
Step 14
Now this is where things get fun! Take a minute and cut some leftover 4x4s or 2x4s 4" long and use them as blocking to hold the boxes up as you screw to the headboard and footboard. Screw from the inside of the boxes into the legs and supports.
Step 15
Attach the cleats to the back side of the boxes, leaving 3/4" gap to the top.
Step 16
Especially if you move up to a king, you will need to add some support to the center. Some 2x2s "legs" as shown above will never be seen, but add a tremendous amount of support to the bed.
Step 17
Finally, lay the slats. Per your mattress recommendation, you may need more (or can get away with less) slats.
Step 18
Build six drawers as shown above. Your drawers must be perfectly square to slide properly into the bed. Remember, your drawer should be exactly 1" less than the overall width of the opening, and 1" less deep as well.
Step 19
Install drawers into bed as shown in diagram, using the white euro style drawer slides that cup the bottom corners of the drawers. Make sure drawer sits inset 1" from outside of box to allow for drawer face. Adjust drawer slides until you are satisfied with how the drawer opens/closes.
Step 20
Build the drawer faces by attaching 1/4" hobby stock (or other moulding) to the faces with 3/4" finish nails and glue. Place drawer face on installed drawers, with an 1/8" gap on all sides of drawer face. Attach with 1 1/4" finish nails and wood glue.
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Comments
In reply to How much did this cost by jackielw (not verified)
birdsandsoap
Sat, 08/04/2012 - 23:08
Way cheaper than an amish bed!
I made a similar bed (without the drawers) for under $250. I used plywood for the storage boxes too. It would cost a little extra to construct the drawers and buy the gliders.
You could do this in a weekend or two.
http://ana-white.com/2011/07/farmhouse-storage-bed-hinged-footboard
Kim Lavoie (not verified)
Fri, 08/17/2012 - 19:00
Twin version needed
I am updating my son's room and will be adding another son in there. Ana, can you please make a set of these plans for twin size? Pretty please! :)
Marie D. (not verified)
Sat, 09/01/2012 - 10:54
Plans for twin size
Awesome bed! Among others would love to have twin size instructions needed for 2 grandson with small bedrooms - thanks a million! Marie D.
Bobbi Jo (not verified)
Mon, 09/03/2012 - 08:47
Plans for double drawers
I am anxious to make this bed with a few alterations. I'll be making it king size. Here's what I'm thinking. First off, I want to double the drawers by making the cubbie spaces 24" high and running 2 drawer glides. I would also like to make the drawers 24" deep. I plan to use 3/4 plywood on the back of the cubbie as well just to add strength, I will also build the 2' x 4' support frame for under the boxes. Any suggestions on how this make work or potential pitfalls would be greatly appreciated.
zannej
Tue, 08/27/2013 - 03:33
Great Idea, Bobbi Jo!
I love the idea of having double drawers instead of single drawers underneath.
Lisa G. (not verified)
Wed, 09/12/2012 - 09:52
Full-size Plans
I would also like to put together a full-sized version of this bed. I'm moving into my own apartment in about a month and have been looking to build my own frame. This storage frame is just the kind of space saver I need!
I'm assuming that the dimensions for these plans are for your average 60x80 Queen mattresses, seeing as the dimensions for the base frame itself are 60x80. Average Full mattresses (in North America) are 54x75, yes? How involved do you think it would be to just do a little math and downgrade all of the dimensions in proportion to each other?
Thaylok (not verified)
Wed, 09/26/2012 - 09:37
Re: Full-size plan
Consider this:
If the extra length does not bother you, then the only real change is in the support boards which connect the two drawer sections. You can narrow those as you see fit.
Additionally, I do believe the Full Size plans are also in this site compliments of the great Ana-white.com creator/maintainer.
Is it too involved? I don't believe so, but then I'm one to modify things continually. I am using these base dimensions and modifying "horrifically" for deeper, longer drawers (to hold comforters). Also incorporating the fold-out drawer (shoe dresser) for storage up where the nightstands sit beside my bed. Lastly, No feet. My bed will be flat on the floor to control dust and dogs from getting under there.
If you don't have it, invest in the Kreg Pocket Hole Jig as well as the Kreg circular saw attachment for ripping wood, Well worth he cost.
zannej
Tue, 08/27/2013 - 03:36
fold out drawers
What sort of hinges do you use for those? Just regular hinges? I'd love to see the plans for that. Also, thanks for the recommendation of the pocket hole jig and circular saw attachment.
jasongroce
Tue, 12/08/2015 - 11:40
Full Size Plans
So I wanted to create this in a Full Size so it fit a mattress we already owned. I determined that the best way was to shrink the width by 6 inches, the height of the headboard by 2 inches, and the length by 3 inches.
This will leave two inches in length longer than a full sized mattress but simplifies the math with the drawers.
Here’s the cut list:
Headboard:
1 – 3/4” Plywood @ 26” x 47
2 – 1x4 @ 47”
2 – 4x4 @ 52”
2 – 2x4 @ 47”
1 – 2x4 @ 54”
1 – 2x6 @56”
:- Lay the 4x4 posts flat and temporarily lay the 2x4’s between the 4x4 where the plywood needs to go. This will allow you to pocket screw the plywood into the 4x4 posts at the correct height on the 4x4. Pocket screw the plywood where you are going to add your 1x4 to save on a pocket plug and hide the screws. Add your 1x4 with glue and 1 ¼ nails. Finish the headboard by connecting the 2x4’s used in the spacing of the plywood to the bottom of the 4x4 where the plan calls for them.
Footboard:
1 – 3/4” Plywood @ 15” x 49”
2 – 1x4 @ 47”
2 – 4x4 @ 19”
2 – 2x4 @ 47”
1 – 2x4 @ 54”
1 – 2x6 @ 56”
:- Same as the headboard. Lay down your 4x4’s. Place your 2x4’s behind there you are going to add your plywood. Pocket hole your plywood to the 4x4’s. Add the trim with nails and glue. Flip it over and attach the 2x4’s with pocket hole screws where the plan calls for them.
Storage Boxes:
4 – ¾” Plywood @ 15 ½” x 77 ¼” (Outside top and bottom)
8 – ¾” Plywood @ 15 ½ x 13 ½” (Sides and center support)
2 – ¼” Plywood @ 77” x 15” (Backing of box)
Support and Center:
2 – 2x2 @ 77 ¼”
2 – 2x2 @16 ¾”
18 – 1x3 @ 22 ½”
Drawer Boxes:
12 – 1x10 @ 22 ¼” (Front and back of drawer box)
12 – 1x10 @ 14” (Sides of drawer box)
6 – ¼” Plywood @ 23 ¾” x 14” (Bottom of drawers)
* ¾” Plywood sheet cut into 9 ½” strips will be the same size as the 1x10’s. It was cheaper for me using plywood.
Drawer Faces
6 – ¾” Plywood @ 24 ½” x 13 ¼”
12 – ¼” hobby stock, 2 ½” wide @ 8 ¼”
12 – ¼” Hobby Stock, 2 ½” wide @ 24 ½”
This should be a conversion from this Queen down to a Full.
Michael Robinson (not verified)
Sat, 10/06/2012 - 15:57
Wood Selection
I would like to build this and stain it. What kind of wood would be best and won't break the bank?