Farmhouse Storage Bed with Drawers (Queen)

Submitted by Ana White on Tue, 09/25/2018 - 23:40
Difficulty
Advanced
| Print this plan

Farmhouse Bed plans for a small space! This bed packs lots of storage in a more compact profile. Detailed step by step plans to help you build your own DIY Farmhouse Bed in queen size.

Also check out our Full and Twin Farmhouse Storage Bed plans.

Collections
farmhouse bed with storage drawers
farmhouse storage bed dimensions queen

Reader submitted photo by BEEKEEPER has some modifications from plans

So excited to add this plan to the Farmhouse Bed Collection! Thank you for requesting!

It's an updated approach to our most popular plan.

I've made a few changes to this bed.  The panels are plywood (although you can still do beadboard paneling or planks for a more country look) and the overall width is 7" narrower than the tradditional Farmhouse Beds.  The reason for this is the mattress on this bed extends all the way to the outsides of the legs, instead of to the insides.  
So if you have a compact space, this bed is a great alternative to the Farmhouse Bed.  It's smaller and includes six huge HUGE drawers for storage.
Please do not attempt this bed as a beginner project with the drawers.  For drawers to work, you must build perfectly square, and all cuts must be square and straight.
Dimensions
dimensions diagram of farmhouse bed with storage drawers in queen size
Dimensions are shown above for queen size.

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 3 - Sheets 3/4" Plywood or other sheet goods
  • 1 1/2 - Sheets 1/4" Plywood or other sheet goods
  • 2 - 4x4 post, 7 feet long
  • 2 - 1x4 @ 10 feet long
  • 3 - 2x4 @ 10 feet long (cut longest first!)
  • 5 - 1x10 @ 8 feet long (OR 1 sheet of 3/4" plywood cut into 5 strips 9 1/4" wide)
  • 6 - Euro Style Drawer Slides (the cheapo white ones) 14" long, medium to heavy duty rating
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 6 feet long
  • 3 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 9 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long
  • 5 - 1/4" hobby stock, 2 1/2" wide @ 8 feet long (OR 1/4" plywood cut into strips 2 1/2" wide)
  • 4" Screws (if you are not using a pocket hole jig and will be attaching 4x4 legs to panels with screws)
  • 6 Knobs or handles

NOTE: Drawers are optional - can be added later or just used as storage shelves.  The shopping list DOES include materials for the drawers, so if not building drawers, please adjust shopping list accordingly

Common Materials
2 inch screws
3 inch screws
3/4 inch finish nails
1 1/4 inch finish nails
2 inch finish nails
120 grit sandpaper
primer
paint
paint brush
Cut List

HEADBOARD

  • 1 - 3/4" Plywood @ 26" x 53" (Can substitute planked wood for panel to create a more authentic "farmhouse" look)
  • 2 - 1x4 @ 53"
  • 2 - 4x4 @ 54"
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 53"
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 60"
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 62"

FOOTBOARD

  • 1 - 3/4" Plywood @ 15" x 53" (Can substitute planked wood for panel to create a more authentic "farmhouse" look)
  • 2 - 1x4 @ 53"
  • 2 - 4x4 @ 19"
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 53"
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 60"
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 62"

STORAGE BOXES

  • 4 - 3/4" Plywood @ 15 1/2" x 80 1/4"
  • 8 - 3/4" Plywood @ 15 1/2" x 13 1/2"
  • 2 - 1/4" Plywood @ 79 1/2" x 15"

SUPPORT & CENTER

  • 2 - 2x2 @ 80 1/4"
  • 4 - 2x2 @ 16 3/4"
  • 18 - 1x3 @ 28 1/2" (Slats to mattress specs)

OPTIONAL DRAWER BOXES

  • 12 - 1x10* @ 23 1/4"
  • 12 - 1x10* @ 14"
  • 6 - 1/4" Plywood @ 24 3/4" x 14"

*Plywood cut into 9 1/4" strips can be substituted for 1x10s, use at least 1/2" thick plywood; for direct conversion to cut list use 3/4" thick plywood

OPTIONAL DRAWER FACES

  • 6 - 3/4" Plywood @ 25 1/2" x 13 1/4"
  • 12 - 1/4" hobby stock, 2 1/2" wide @ 8 1/4"
  • 12 - 1/4" hobby stock, 2 1/2" wide @ 25 1/2"
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Hammer
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Table Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Level
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Have your hardware store rip the first piece into three equal sized strips, 15 1/2" wide. Then all you have to do is make the cross cuts at home. These cuts are from the 3/4" thick plywood.

NOTE: Measurement should be 15-1/2" x 13-1/2" NOT 13-1/4" - please check with cut list

Step 2

From another sheet of 3/4" plywood, have your hardware store rip into two 15 1/2" strips and one 13 1/4" strip. From these strips cut the following pieces.

NOTE: Measurement should be 15-1/2" x 13-1/2" NOT 13-1/4" - please check with cut list

Step 3

From the final 3/4" piece of plywood, cut it cross wise as noted in the diagram, and then cut your headboard and footboard panel from the larger half. From the remaining pieces, cut your remaining drawer faces as shown above.

Step 4

From the 1/4" plywood, cut the following pieces. You will need to either purchase an additional 1/2 sheet of plywood for the two remaining drawer bottoms, or you could use leftover 3/4" stock for the remaining two drawer bottoms.

Step 5

Step 6

This is a relatively easy task if you have a Kreg Jig - simply drill 3/4" pocket holes along sides of panel and attach to legs. Make sure you are leaving 1 1/2" to the back of the panel as shown above (Very important with footboard).

If you are using traditional screws, mark the legs where they meet up with the panel at the top and bottom (where the panel is covered in trim. Use a drill bit the size of the screw head to drill a hole 2" deep into the legs. In this hole, use a drill bit the size of the screw head to drill a second hole all the way through the 4x4s. Attach to panel with 4" screws and glue.

Step 7

Attach the bottom supports in the same manner as the panel, carefully locating as shown in diagram.

Step 8

Hooray, an easy step! Attach as shown above.

Step 9

Finally the crown. I'd screw on myself to minimize any gaps.

Step 10

The footboard is built just like the headboard - make sure you leave 1 1/2" to the back of the panel - see next step ...

Step 11

This is so your 2x4 spacers fit just right in the backs. Attach with screws and glue.

Step 12

You can build these with either a pocket hole jig or traditional screws. Build square if you are using drawers or your drawers will not slide right.

Step 13

Attach back to the boxes with finish nails and glue. Make sure you nail into all center dividers too. The back will help keep things straight and minimize sagging.

Step 14

Now this is where things get fun! Take a minute and cut some leftover 4x4s or 2x4s 4" long and use them as blocking to hold the boxes up as you screw to the headboard and footboard. Screw from the inside of the boxes into the legs and supports.

Step 15

Attach the cleats to the back side of the boxes, leaving 3/4" gap to the top.

Step 16

Especially if you move up to a king, you will need to add some support to the center. Some 2x2s "legs" as shown above will never be seen, but add a tremendous amount of support to the bed.

Step 17

Finally, lay the slats. Per your mattress recommendation, you may need more (or can get away with less) slats.

Step 18

Build six drawers as shown above. Your drawers must be perfectly square to slide properly into the bed. Remember, your drawer should be exactly 1" less than the overall width of the opening, and 1" less deep as well.

Step 19

Install drawers into bed as shown in diagram, using the white euro style drawer slides that cup the bottom corners of the drawers. Make sure drawer sits inset 1" from outside of box to allow for drawer face. Adjust drawer slides until you are satisfied with how the drawer opens/closes.

Step 20

Build the drawer faces by attaching 1/4" hobby stock (or other moulding) to the faces with 3/4" finish nails and glue. Place drawer face on installed drawers, with an 1/8" gap on all sides of drawer face. Attach with 1 1/4" finish nails and wood glue.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Help Improve This Plan

We apologize if there was an error in this plan. Please help us out and report any errors here.

Comments

Michael Robinson (not verified)

Sat, 10/06/2012 - 15:57

I would like to build this and stain it. What kind of wood would be best and won't break the bank?

James H (not verified)

Tue, 10/09/2012 - 13:20

Here in Northern CA, I just estimated the cost of this project at $375. That's lumber from a local building supply. If I get everything at Home Depot the estimate was over $400. This is just materials and no tools. I think our lumber prices are too high.

Jesi (not verified)

Fri, 10/12/2012 - 07:19

Ana, I'm in LOVE with this bed! My Dad is DIYing an apartment for my son and me on my parent's property. I'm strapped for cash and have NO furniture, which I'm actually excited about because I can BUILD all my furniture, and design exactly what I want for my tiny space! I don't want much more furniture in my bedroom than my bed, but I need even MORE storage. When I was in Macy's one time, I happened to pass their bedding department and saw one of their display headboards which I really loved. It was deep, and there were long handles on the sides which almost looked like bars hand towels. It reminded me or a drawer handle, and I thought, "why couldn't I build a deep headboard with drawers on the sides? Then I could use the top of my headboard like a shelf, too!" I wonder if you could draw up plans like that... That would be the ULTIMATE in a storage bed! :)

I just LOVE your site, by the way. It's empowering, knowing that I can build nice furniture I can be proud of. Thank you, and keep up the amazing work!

Meredithbr (not verified)

Tue, 01/08/2013 - 15:55

If I already have a ton of 1/2" plywood, can I use that? Will anything turn out significantly different? I haven't had a half hour to look at this plan thoroughly yet. Thanks.

RG (not verified)

Sun, 01/13/2013 - 00:31

Is there any problem with making the drawers deeper instead of using slats? Making them each half the width of the bed?

Thanks so much - I love this site!!!

Aaron (not verified)

Mon, 01/21/2013 - 15:09

Hi Ana,

I love this bed and I'm trying to adapt it to a King size version, assuming 76" for the width of the mattress. Based on your plans, I'm wondering if there's an extra inch added into the headboard/footboard panels by mistake? The plans have the headboard/footboard panels spec'ed at 53". Including the posts, from their outside to outside, the plans say 60". The headboard crown length says 62", with the 1 inch overhangs on each end.

If the headboard/footboard panels are 53", and the posts are 4x4s, then the headboard width, from outer post to outer post, cannot be 60". It would be 61" (53+4+4). This would make the crown 63".

Please advise Ana. I'm trying to spec out the king size version. The dimensions below are what I have so far. The rest will be easy once I figure out where the extra inch came from. Or if I'm crazy!

Headboard/Footboard panel: 68"
Headboard/Footboard outer post to outer post: 76"
Headboard crown: 78"

Thanks again,

Aaron

ctespinosa

Wed, 01/30/2013 - 07:04

I'm planning to build the farmhouse storage queen, with some modifications to the height and drawer depth. I'm planning on using oak plywood for the boxes, and staining them. How are people finishing the visible edges of the boxes? Do pine 2x4's, 2x6's finish out to look okay, or is it worth the quadruple cost of buying oak?

Timothy Simpson

Mon, 03/04/2013 - 05:49

I've already built the traditional farmhouse bed, for my own home. It's a beautiful bed, which is as solid as the rock of gibraltar. Couldn't be happier with it!

Here's the thing: some good friends of mine, after seeing that bed, have asked me to build one for them. However, they're more interested in the storage version of the farmhouse bed, shown on this page. My concern, as well as theirs, is how strong is this design, compared to the other one? The original farmhouse bed is framed with 2x10 rails, and 2x6 supports spaced 16" on center, all tied together with a 3/4" plywood top. In comparison, this storage version of the farmhouse bed, has no rails at all. I'm concerned with bending/bowing of the plywood cabinet boxes, particularly at the outside edges (as in, when he/she sits down at the edge of the bed, putting their entire body weight directly over an unsupported piece of plywood spanning 26"). The couple I'm building this bed for, is on the large side.

So, my question is, has anybody who's built this bed, experienced any bowing or sagging issues? Does anybody have any ideas for how I could reinforce it, without significantly altering the plans?

One more question: what have other users done, to hide all the plywood end grain in this design? I don't see anything in these plans for applying any edge banding, or hardwood strips, so I'm just wondering how others have worked around this.

Thanks a bunch!

Breatherguy

Thu, 04/18/2013 - 19:37

To cover the plywood end grain, I used screen molding to cover, glue and nails.
To help protect the paint from wear, last coat was clear poly.

Got a deal on baskets that had glides so I did not make drawers.