Farmhouse Bed plans for a small space! This bed packs lots of storage in a more compact profile. Detailed step by step plans to help you build your own DIY Farmhouse Bed in queen size.
Also check out our Full and Twin Farmhouse Storage Bed plans.

Preparation
- 3 - Sheets 3/4" Plywood or other sheet goods
- 1 1/2 - Sheets 1/4" Plywood or other sheet goods
- 2 - 4x4 post, 7 feet long
- 2 - 1x4 @ 10 feet long
- 3 - 2x4 @ 10 feet long (cut longest first!)
- 5 - 1x10 @ 8 feet long (OR 1 sheet of 3/4" plywood cut into 5 strips 9 1/4" wide)
- 6 - Euro Style Drawer Slides (the cheapo white ones) 14" long, medium to heavy duty rating
- 2 - 2x6 @ 6 feet long
- 3 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
- 9 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long
- 5 - 1/4" hobby stock, 2 1/2" wide @ 8 feet long (OR 1/4" plywood cut into strips 2 1/2" wide)
- 4" Screws (if you are not using a pocket hole jig and will be attaching 4x4 legs to panels with screws)
- 6 Knobs or handles
NOTE: Drawers are optional - can be added later or just used as storage shelves. The shopping list DOES include materials for the drawers, so if not building drawers, please adjust shopping list accordingly
HEADBOARD
- 1 - 3/4" Plywood @ 26" x 53" (Can substitute planked wood for panel to create a more authentic "farmhouse" look)
- 2 - 1x4 @ 53"
- 2 - 4x4 @ 54"
- 2 - 2x4 @ 53"
- 1 - 2x4 @ 60"
- 1 - 2x6 @ 62"
FOOTBOARD
- 1 - 3/4" Plywood @ 15" x 53" (Can substitute planked wood for panel to create a more authentic "farmhouse" look)
- 2 - 1x4 @ 53"
- 2 - 4x4 @ 19"
- 2 - 2x4 @ 53"
- 1 - 2x4 @ 60"
- 1 - 2x6 @ 62"
STORAGE BOXES
- 4 - 3/4" Plywood @ 15 1/2" x 80 1/4"
- 8 - 3/4" Plywood @ 15 1/2" x 13 1/2"
- 2 - 1/4" Plywood @ 80-1/4" x 15"
SUPPORT & CENTER
- 2 - 2x2 @ 80 1/4"
- 4 - 2x2 @ 16 3/4"
- 18 - 1x3 @ 28 1/2" (Slats to mattress specs)
OPTIONAL DRAWER BOXES
- 12 - 1x10* @ 23 1/4"
- 12 - 1x10* @ 14"
- 6 - 1/4" Plywood @ 24 3/4" x 14"
*Plywood cut into 9 1/4" strips can be substituted for 1x10s, use at least 1/2" thick plywood; for direct conversion to cut list use 3/4" thick plywood
OPTIONAL DRAWER FACES
- 6 - 3/4" Plywood @ 25 1/2" x 13 1/4"
- 12 - 1/4" hobby stock, 2 1/2" wide @ 8 1/4"
- 12 - 1/4" hobby stock, 2 1/2" wide @ 25 1/2"
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
Instructions
Step 1
Step 2
Step 3
Step 4
Step 6
This is a relatively easy task if you have a Kreg Jig - simply drill 3/4" pocket holes along sides of panel and attach to legs. Make sure you are leaving 1 1/2" to the back of the panel as shown above (Very important with footboard).
Step 7
Step 10
Step 12
Step 13
Step 14
Step 16
Step 17
Step 18
Step 19
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Comments
Breatherguy
Thu, 04/18/2013 - 19:37
Farm House Bed
To cover the plywood end grain, I used screen molding to cover, glue and nails.
To help protect the paint from wear, last coat was clear poly.
Got a deal on baskets that had glides so I did not make drawers.
roger1122
Tue, 04/23/2013 - 08:37
Excellent information on your
Excellent information on your blog, thank you for taking the time to share with us. Amazing insight you have on this, it's nice to find a website that details so much information about different artists.
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geophyrd
Thu, 05/23/2013 - 03:39
To the gentleman or lady who was asking about this bed
I built it. I altered the design a couple of ways. I put blocks under the 'boxes' that are the storage units where they abut against the headboard and foot board. That way, I knew they would be easy to take off and put back on again later without having to hold the boxes looking for screwholes. I used 3/4 plywood, primed and painted, glued and screwed.
I also did some substantial carving on the legs, head and footboard and backlit a headboard insert with LED lighting.
All in...VERY strong. If you want to see pictures of the bed and the build, you can click the link below. Its my facebook page. I posted this on Ana's site, but I didn't get much response. Its possible that I somehow didn't make the couple of pics public or something.
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150844261192960.416336.6516…
zannej
Tue, 08/27/2013 - 04:27
Great job, Geophyrd!
Wow! That is amazing. Do I even want to know how much that carving machine costs to buy? Does it require a computer or something?
You said Ana made mistakes in her plan. Can you outline what mistakes she made and what you did differently?
Thanks!
leverknight1
Thu, 06/20/2013 - 21:59
King size?
I love all the plans for the storage beds on here but we are looking to get a king size to build one for.
BriFrerich518
Thu, 08/08/2013 - 22:07
Mattress size?
Is this design plan for a queen sized bed? Does anyone know? If not, could someone please tell me how I figure out how to change dimensions for a queen?
Thank you!
zannej
Tue, 08/27/2013 - 04:42
multiple questions
I have a few questions about this plan:
How would you stop the mattress from sliding? Even though my mattress weighs 90lbs, it tends to slide.
Where can I find the plans for the Full version of this bed?
Are there any plans for double drawers (one on top of the other) instead of just single drawers?
What about the space in the middle of the bed? It looks like it could be used for storage-- what options are there for accessing that storage?
(I love Birdsandsoap's hinged footboard idea).
What modifications could be made if I wanted to use something like SUSPA® 100 LB Gas Spring/Prop/Strut/Shock to have the top lift up to access storage under the mattress?
Are there any better ideas for accessing that space?
Instead of a footboard, what about a footboard dresser like the Lea Industries Dillon footboard dresser?
http://www.ivgstores.com/prodimages-cdls/LA/la-906-241.jpg
If I wanted to have this sit on the floor so nothing could get underneath, but wanted it propped up on something with a toekick on the sides instead, what would I have to change?
Are there diagrams of suggestions for more support in the middle?
Thanks for these plans. It really is giving me a lot of ideas. I admit the storage part and platform are the part that I am looking at the most since I love my existing headboard. I do not currently have a footboard though.
In reply to multiple questions by zannej
darkjuan
Tue, 08/27/2013 - 05:41
re-multiple questions
Hello Zannej,
I don't have all answers for your questions, but I can suggest for the 1st question about preventing the mattress for sliding, I can guess that using some wood shims would stop the sliding. Also, unless you have pleennnttyyy space on the side if you want to make the drawers with more depth.
For the other question about using double drawers, you may want to reconsider it, as you may be getting the bed level way to high. I speak from experience, my in-laws have a solid wood king size bed with double drawers and doors opening on the footboard to access the "middle" storage area. My wife have to open the bottom drawers in order to "climb" to the bed.
Just my 2 cents.
zannej
Wed, 08/28/2013 - 12:59
Thanks, Darkjuan.
I was thinking of making shallower drawers or of having single drawers but the faces would give the illusion of double drawers. I have a 14" mattress but I used to have a 24" mattress. For awhile (before I was able to remove the old one) I had the new mattress stacked on top of the old on on top of the box spring which is on a metal frame. That was actually a bit too high for me, but I could easily add another 10" of height to my mattress and have it be comfortable. It's actually easier for me to get in and out of that way.
But you do have a good point. I wouldn't want the bed to be too high since I'm only 5'5".
Now, for my brother's bed it can afford to be higher because he's about 6'3".
Doors on the footboard would be another option as well. I wish the hydraulic lift thing was easier to figure out because that way we could access storage near the headboard.
geophyrd
Tue, 08/27/2013 - 05:35
Catching up
Ok, so six months later...bed is still every bit as strong. I did add on item: I cut a piece of plywood the exact size of the bed and threw it on top of the boxes,under the mattress. It has been described as the most comfortable rock ever...
To the person asking and the carving machine, its around 1,500 which sounds like a lot, but I've made five pieces of furniture with it and its the gift that keeps giving (not really a gift, my wife was gonna kill me when I bought it). But seriously, I have no talent for carving and what I wanted, it was the easiest we to get closest. If you're interested, you can go to CarveWright.com to see about the carving unit.
now into the next project!