Farmhouse Table - No Pocket Holes Plan

Submitted by Ana White on Wed, 04/17/2019 - 22:15
Difficulty
Intermediate
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Do you want a farmhouse table, but don't want to spend thousands of dollars?  Have you thought about building your own?  Thousands of people have with minimal tools and woodworking experience using these very plans!

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farmhouse table with chairs
farmhouse table featured in country living magazine

The Farmhouse Table Story

Beloved for hundreds of years, the Farmhouse Table was usually made by the family that used it, from wood that was locally harvested, using basic tools.  Soft woods were easier to use, but the soft wood dents easily, and the tables showed wear, creating that authentic distressed look.

Today, a true farmhouse table is just that - built by hand by the family that uses it, using soft woods, and finished by hand.  The tables are meaningful, with each scratch and scuff having a story, each moment creating memory for the family that uses it.

Start your family's Farmhouse Table Story by building your own table, and gathering around it to share a meal, to fold laundry on and do homework on - to create the foundation of your family's home.

 

The Farmhouse Table Plans

Our Farmhouse Table plans have been built tens of thousands of times and are in homes all over the world. The extremely sturdy, rustic styling is easy to build and authentic to history.

Built out of all off the shelf lumber - builders spend between $50 and $100 making their farmhouse tables.

You just need a saw and a drill to make this farm table.  

Special thanks to ssshindler for the featured photo.

This table was also featured in Country Living Magazine!  Built by Michael and Emily Knotts, photo by Lucas Allen

 

The plans for this farmhouse table follow.  Also check out these other plans:

Thank you so much for using our plans.  If you build, please share a photo and let us know how your build went in the comments or a brag post.

Dimensions
farmhouse table dimensions
30″ High x 38 1/2″ Wide x 96″ Long

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 8 – 2x4 8 feet long
  • 6 – 2x2s  8 feet long
  • 1 - 2×8  8 feet long
  • 7 – 2x6s 8 feet long
  • 2 3/4″ Self Tapping Wood Screws (About 100) (try spax brand or similar)
  • 4″ Self tapping wood Screws (About 20)
Common Materials
Cut List

A) 4 - 2×4 @ 28 1/2″ (Outside Legs)

B) 4 – 2×4 @ 28 1/2″ (Inside Legs)

C) 2 -2×4 @ 34 1/2″ (Bottom End Supports for the Stretcher)

D) 1 – 2×4 @ 81″ (Stretcher)

E) 2 – 2×4 @ 81″ (Side Aprons)

F) 2 – 2×4 @ 28 1/2″ (End Aprons)

G) 2 – 2×2 @ 28 1/2″ (Overhang Supports, Ends)

H) 2 – 2×2 @ 78″ (Overhang Supports, Sides)

I) 10 – 2×2 @ 28 1/2″ (Under Tabletop Supports)

J) 2 – 2×8 @ 38 1/2″ (Breadboard Ends)

K) 7 – 2×6 @ 81″ (Tabletop Pieces)

Cutting Instructions

Start by cutting all your boards.  The best way to cut is with a compound miter saw.  You can also use a circular saw with a guide - good square cuts are very important.

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Hammer
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
General Instructions

Always use glue. Use the longest possible screws, and predrill with a countersink bit to hide the screw heads.

Instructions

Step 1

Notch out boards A, the Outside Legs, as shown above. If you do not know how to notch out boards, watch me notch the boards out for my table in my HOW-TO section.

Step 2

Notch out the inside leg as shown above. Make sure you notch both the top and the bottom as shown above. Use the measurements from step 2 to notch the bottom. See the below diagram for a closeup on notching the top.

Step 3

The above diagram show you how to notch out the top of the inside legs.

Step 4

Now screw an inside leg to an outside leg, using glue and 2 3/4″ screws. Be aware of where each leg is placed – it does matter on what sides the inside leg sits. Also, screw through the inside leg into the outside leg to keep your screw holes on the inside.

Step 5

Step 6

Screw the support, C, into the legs, as shown above. Make sure you use 2 screws on the inside leg and 2 screws on the outside legs per side of the end supports. NOTE: If you would like the support to be on the outside, rotate the legs, keeping the inside legs on the inside, and add 4″ to your stretcher, D. This will reduce your leg room for end chairs, but the notch out will be more visible, like my table and the Restoration Hardware table.

Step 7

Put your stretcher in place and screw down.

Step 8

Build your apron on a level surface as shown above, using side apron boards E and end apron boards F.

Step 9

Fit the apron frame into the base of the table as shown above. Use the long screws to screw at an angle through the apron into the legs. Use 3 screws per leg on all legs. Lots of glue here. Now is a good time to check your table for square. Visit the HOW-TO section if you do not know how to check for square.

Step 10

Mark the side apron every 5 3/4″ and place the 2×2 supports, I, as shown above. Remember that a 2×2 is 1 1/2″ wide. This does not have to be exact and the last support will not be exactly 5 3/4″ from the end. Use the 2 3/4″ screws here.

Step 11

Add the overhang supports, G and H, as shown above. Keep the top edges flush, use the 2 3/4″ screws. Make sure you screw these in good.

Step 12

Now the breadboard ends, J. See the below diagram for measurements:

Step 13

Use the long screws to screw the breadboard end into the legs. Then screw from the underside of the overhang support, board G, into the underside of the breadboard end.

Step 14

First mark all the ends of the tabletop boards, K, for the screw pattern. The screw pattern I used was 1″ from the end, and 1″ from each side and one in the middle. Predrill the ends on the marked pattern, as shown above.

Step 15

Then begin adding the tabletop pieces K, starting with the center piece. Screw the center board in place on the ends through the top, pre,drilled and marked in step 15. Then from the underside of the table, screw through the tabletop supports, I, into the underside of the tabletop boards, K.

Step 16

Add the next tabletop boards, K, as shown below. As you screw each board down, take special care to line up the edges with the existing boards. You do not want a gap between the boards on the tabletop. Remember to screw through the top on the ends and then screw through the bottom of the under supports to the underside of the tabletop boards.

After all the boards are screwed in place, then use the long screws to screw through the tabletop boards into the breadboard ends, as shown above.

Finishing Instructions
Finish Used
Fill any wood screw holes with wood filler. Use stain matched wood filler for best stain hiding. For a painted finish, any wood filler works. Overfill the screw holes. Let dry.
Sand the entire table with 120 grit sandpaper, working in the direction of the wood grain.
Refill holes with wood filler if needed.
Sand table with 180 grit sandpaper.
Stain or paint. If the table feels rough between coats, lightly sand with 180 grit sandpaper.
A final coat of poly on the top can help keep the top easy to finish and wipe cleanable.

Comments

jandesign (not verified)

Sun, 12/12/2010 - 04:14

Hi Ana!

Thanks so much for creating these plans. My husband and I made this table over Thanksgiving weekend and I LOVE it! I'm afraid to stain it -- I sort of like it just the way it is. Now I just have to move my chandelier and have some friends over to celebrate.

One friend asked, "So, are you actually sitting at the table to eat, or do you sit in the living room so you can look at your table?"
http://picasaweb.google.com/PupperDo/Homemade#5549798052864429170

Shannon (not verified)

Sun, 12/26/2010 - 10:49

Oh me too! I was scrolling through the comments to see if I could find any comments about an extension! I'm nearly 8mos pregnant with #5, and we've out grown our current table. After suffering from sticker shock at the local furniture store day, my handy hubby and I are going to attempt to build this, and the farm house bed ;o) Which one first.....
Thanks for all of this!! Simply Amazing!
~Shannon
OrganicMamasShop.com

Shawna (not verified)

Mon, 12/27/2010 - 12:28

I am also waiting on the bench plans before we jump into making the table. We are going from a counter height table to this farmhouse table, so we would have nothing to sit on until getting a bench made! Can't wait to see the bench plans as well.

Travis (not verified)

Fri, 06/29/2012 - 10:25

I'm going to make mine from 2 x 10s. I'm also planning to add removable extensions made out of 2 x 10s.

Amy (not verified)

Wed, 12/29/2010 - 09:50

We are making benches this weekend. We are just modifying the plans to make matching benches. If we are successful I will post what we did to make it work.

Amy (not verified)

Sat, 01/01/2011 - 06:57

We made the benches and they turned out great! I posted pictures on the Knock Off Wood facebook page since I don't have a website to link to here.
I will do my best to describe what we did. Ana might have to help clarify since I am not that great at this. :)
What we did was cut 3 2x6 pieces to 33 3/4 inches. Then 2 2x8 pieces to 15 1/2 inches - basically we made it match the width of the 2x6's when lined up together. the legs were done the same way as the table but cut to 16 1/2 inches so that the bench would be 18 inches tall. We did the frame the same as the table just scaled it down to size. I hope that helps.

Greg Retherford (not verified)

Sat, 01/01/2011 - 11:02

Ana, I am interested in building benches to go with the Farmhouse Table w/stretcher... I have looked all over your site but can't find any, I notice others have asked you about plans and I am just curious if they on on your site and I simply can't find them, or if you haven't had a chance to post them yet?

retherford2 (not verified)

Sat, 01/01/2011 - 16:11

Ana, any luck with the bench plans for the farmhouse table w/ stretcher? I'm holding off on the table until I can build the benches first, don't want a table and no place to sit...