Farmhouse Table - No Pocket Holes Plan

Submitted by Ana White on Wed, 04/17/2019 - 22:15
Difficulty
Intermediate
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Do you want a farmhouse table, but don't want to spend thousands of dollars?  Have you thought about building your own?  Thousands of people have with minimal tools and woodworking experience using these very plans!

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farmhouse table with chairs
farmhouse table featured in country living magazine

The Farmhouse Table Story

Beloved for hundreds of years, the Farmhouse Table was usually made by the family that used it, from wood that was locally harvested, using basic tools.  Soft woods were easier to use, but the soft wood dents easily, and the tables showed wear, creating that authentic distressed look.

Today, a true farmhouse table is just that - built by hand by the family that uses it, using soft woods, and finished by hand.  The tables are meaningful, with each scratch and scuff having a story, each moment creating memory for the family that uses it.

Start your family's Farmhouse Table Story by building your own table, and gathering around it to share a meal, to fold laundry on and do homework on - to create the foundation of your family's home.

 

The Farmhouse Table Plans

Our Farmhouse Table plans have been built tens of thousands of times and are in homes all over the world. The extremely sturdy, rustic styling is easy to build and authentic to history.

Built out of all off the shelf lumber - builders spend between $50 and $100 making their farmhouse tables.

You just need a saw and a drill to make this farm table.  

Special thanks to ssshindler for the featured photo.

This table was also featured in Country Living Magazine!  Built by Michael and Emily Knotts, photo by Lucas Allen

 

The plans for this farmhouse table follow.  Also check out these other plans:

Thank you so much for using our plans.  If you build, please share a photo and let us know how your build went in the comments or a brag post.

Dimensions
farmhouse table dimensions
30″ High x 38 1/2″ Wide x 96″ Long

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 8 – 2x4 8 feet long
  • 6 – 2x2s  8 feet long
  • 1 - 2×8  8 feet long
  • 7 – 2x6s 8 feet long
  • 2 3/4″ Self Tapping Wood Screws (About 100) (try spax brand or similar)
  • 4″ Self tapping wood Screws (About 20)
Common Materials
Cut List

A) 4 - 2×4 @ 28 1/2″ (Outside Legs)

B) 4 – 2×4 @ 28 1/2″ (Inside Legs)

C) 2 -2×4 @ 34 1/2″ (Bottom End Supports for the Stretcher)

D) 1 – 2×4 @ 81″ (Stretcher)

E) 2 – 2×4 @ 81″ (Side Aprons)

F) 2 – 2×4 @ 28 1/2″ (End Aprons)

G) 2 – 2×2 @ 28 1/2″ (Overhang Supports, Ends)

H) 2 – 2×2 @ 78″ (Overhang Supports, Sides)

I) 10 – 2×2 @ 28 1/2″ (Under Tabletop Supports)

J) 2 – 2×8 @ 38 1/2″ (Breadboard Ends)

K) 7 – 2×6 @ 81″ (Tabletop Pieces)

Cutting Instructions

Start by cutting all your boards.  The best way to cut is with a compound miter saw.  You can also use a circular saw with a guide - good square cuts are very important.

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Hammer
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
General Instructions

Always use glue. Use the longest possible screws, and predrill with a countersink bit to hide the screw heads.

Instructions

Step 1

Notch out boards A, the Outside Legs, as shown above. If you do not know how to notch out boards, watch me notch the boards out for my table in my HOW-TO section.

Step 2

Notch out the inside leg as shown above. Make sure you notch both the top and the bottom as shown above. Use the measurements from step 2 to notch the bottom. See the below diagram for a closeup on notching the top.

Step 3

The above diagram show you how to notch out the top of the inside legs.

Step 4

Now screw an inside leg to an outside leg, using glue and 2 3/4″ screws. Be aware of where each leg is placed – it does matter on what sides the inside leg sits. Also, screw through the inside leg into the outside leg to keep your screw holes on the inside.

Step 5

Step 6

Screw the support, C, into the legs, as shown above. Make sure you use 2 screws on the inside leg and 2 screws on the outside legs per side of the end supports. NOTE: If you would like the support to be on the outside, rotate the legs, keeping the inside legs on the inside, and add 4″ to your stretcher, D. This will reduce your leg room for end chairs, but the notch out will be more visible, like my table and the Restoration Hardware table.

Step 7

Put your stretcher in place and screw down.

Step 8

Build your apron on a level surface as shown above, using side apron boards E and end apron boards F.

Step 9

Fit the apron frame into the base of the table as shown above. Use the long screws to screw at an angle through the apron into the legs. Use 3 screws per leg on all legs. Lots of glue here. Now is a good time to check your table for square. Visit the HOW-TO section if you do not know how to check for square.

Step 10

Mark the side apron every 5 3/4″ and place the 2×2 supports, I, as shown above. Remember that a 2×2 is 1 1/2″ wide. This does not have to be exact and the last support will not be exactly 5 3/4″ from the end. Use the 2 3/4″ screws here.

Step 11

Add the overhang supports, G and H, as shown above. Keep the top edges flush, use the 2 3/4″ screws. Make sure you screw these in good.

Step 12

Now the breadboard ends, J. See the below diagram for measurements:

Step 13

Use the long screws to screw the breadboard end into the legs. Then screw from the underside of the overhang support, board G, into the underside of the breadboard end.

Step 14

First mark all the ends of the tabletop boards, K, for the screw pattern. The screw pattern I used was 1″ from the end, and 1″ from each side and one in the middle. Predrill the ends on the marked pattern, as shown above.

Step 15

Then begin adding the tabletop pieces K, starting with the center piece. Screw the center board in place on the ends through the top, pre,drilled and marked in step 15. Then from the underside of the table, screw through the tabletop supports, I, into the underside of the tabletop boards, K.

Step 16

Add the next tabletop boards, K, as shown below. As you screw each board down, take special care to line up the edges with the existing boards. You do not want a gap between the boards on the tabletop. Remember to screw through the top on the ends and then screw through the bottom of the under supports to the underside of the tabletop boards.

After all the boards are screwed in place, then use the long screws to screw through the tabletop boards into the breadboard ends, as shown above.

Finishing Instructions
Finish Used
Fill any wood screw holes with wood filler. Use stain matched wood filler for best stain hiding. For a painted finish, any wood filler works. Overfill the screw holes. Let dry.
Sand the entire table with 120 grit sandpaper, working in the direction of the wood grain.
Refill holes with wood filler if needed.
Sand table with 180 grit sandpaper.
Stain or paint. If the table feels rough between coats, lightly sand with 180 grit sandpaper.
A final coat of poly on the top can help keep the top easy to finish and wipe cleanable.
Help Improve This Plan

We apologize if there was an error in this plan. Please help us out and report any errors here.

Comments

Becca W (not verified)

Fri, 05/13/2011 - 15:39

I LOVE YOUR SITE!!! My husband and I really want to make this table! We are wondering how hard it would be to modify this to make the table legs removable? We do a lot of cross-country moving, so we need something that travels well. With a family of 8, we need something big, durable, and inexpensive also! Thank you so much!

tatekidsmom

Thu, 05/19/2011 - 06:53

I just built this table, and while it was not my first building project ever, it was my first one without my dad! I waited years to buy a new table because I never could find one that met my needs, we have 8 children, and company frequently. I did make it longer simply by omitting the bread board ends and extending the 2x6's, then I glued and used finishing nails to add a 1x2 over the rough ends. I looks great and will seat 12 adults comfortably. I built 2 benches to match. The plans were easy to follow and very easy to understand, it wasn't hard at all! THANK YOU for this website, I have many more projects on my to do list now!

Mark (not verified)

Fri, 06/17/2011 - 14:06

Why is there a nailer required as part of the tool list? I dont see any nails being used.

lori-marie

Thu, 07/07/2011 - 03:56

First, let me say that this site is absolutely amazing. I actually started to cry when I discovered it. I've been living as an expat in Asia for 8 yrs & getting furniture I really like has proved impossible. Just the logistics of buying this kind of thing from US stores like Pottery Barn, not to mention the whopping price tag, are frightening. So, thank you, thank you, thank you for providing this information and, even more so, for doing it for free!
However, it seems like there are some errors in the math. For example, if the 7 tabletop pieces are each 6" wide, how can the table be 38 1/2" wide? 7x6=42, no? Likewise, if the 2 breadboard pieces are 8" each & the tabletop pieces are 81", how is the table 96" long, when 8+8+81= 97?
But I am not a carpenter [yet! :)], so maybe I'm not reading the plans correctly. Is there something I'm missing?

Guest (not verified)

Sat, 07/09/2011 - 17:36

I LOVE this look. Any advice or recommendations on keeping the crumbs from collecting in the grooves? Thinking of this as an everyday table. Thanks!

Don G (not verified)

Wed, 07/13/2011 - 18:54

Are the breadboards necessary? I kind of like the look without them, but I don't want to sacrifice the integrity of the table. Great plans.

Guest (not verified)

Mon, 07/18/2011 - 05:41

Any idea how much this table weighs? I am planning to build but have concerns about moving it once completed.

Also, Avi, I like the idea of a wider table ... which makes it heavier of course. Did all of your cuts work?

ltl_lisa

Fri, 07/22/2011 - 10:08

Hi Ana,
I just finished the bench but am wondering what you did to fill the gaps between the 2x4s on the legs. It looks like they are 4x4s. Did you use wood filler or glue and sawdust? I am planning on staining them and would like it to look more finished.
I love your site and can't tell you how happy I am to build. I too am a stay at home mom and building is my new "job". I have recently refinished all my cabinets and put up chair rail and beadboard. The farmhouse furniture is going to look amazing in my "new" kitchen.
Thanks again for your amazing work

LovelyPigeon

Sun, 08/07/2011 - 16:32

When my Daddy was 80 he built me a country dining table like this one from Alabama heart pine. Now I'm building a new house and have feared that the dining area is too narrow for the chairs I have. The bench is the perfect solution!! Thanks so much for the plans and all the inspiring ideas at this site!