Free plans to build a Farmhouse Table. This table has been built tens of thousands of times and is loved the world over for it's basic material composition, simple clean lines, easy to build steps, and sturdy, functional size. Our step by step plans with diagrams make it easy.
This plan uses pocket holes and is the updated plan. We also have this plan available to build without pocket holes.
Built by Hillary at The Friendly Home, we upgraded the farmhouse table for pocket hole joinery (no visibile fasteners) and easier construction.
Hillary made this table with pocket holes instead of adding the 2x2 supports as done in the original plan, saving a ton of cuts and holes to be drilled, which saves time and money.
Also, by using pocket holes, we hide most all of the screw holes, so a beautiful stained finish like Hillary's is very easy to do.
The easy to do pocket hole plan follows if you want to build this table.
And as always, Hillary delivers a beautiful finish, and you can get all the details on how Hillary finished her table here. I love the stain color and will have to try it as well!
PS - Don't have a pocket hole jig? Here's the original Farmhouse Table Plans.
PSS - Have trouble finding 4x4s? Check out this beginner friendly 2 Tool/$50 Farmhouse Table plans
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Preparation
- 4 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long
- 1 - 4x4 @ 10 feet long
- 4 - 2x8 @ 6 feet long
- 1 - 2x8 @ 8 feet long (breadboard ends)
- 1 - 2x10 @ 6 feet long
- 4 - 4x4 posts @ 29" (legs)
- 2 - 2x4 @ 67" (long aprons)
- 2 - 2x4 @ 27" (short aprons)
- 1 - 2x4 @ 74" (stretcher)
- 2 - 2x4 @ 34" (stretcher supports)
- 4 - 2x8 @ 70.5" (table top planks)
- 1 - 2x10@ 70-1/2" (center table top plank -- I had to use one 2x10 to get the right overall width)
- 2 - 2x8 ~38" (breadboard ends -- measure your joined tabletop before cutting these)
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
Instructions
Step 1
First, cut and notch out the 4x4s. If you can get your home improvement store to make square cuts, ask them to cut your 4x4s. Otherwise, you'll need a 12" (maybe a 10" will work too) miter saw or set your circular saw to the deepest possible cut. Cut one side, flip the 4x4 and finish the cut on the bottom side. Sand until cut is smooth. You'll probably add cork or felt pads under the legs later on to level table up and protect your floor.
Then notch out the stretcher joint as shown in diagram. Definitely practice first on a scrap if you can. This is easier to do than it looks - just be sure to get the top and bottom cut right, and it will all work out!
Step 2
Notch out the stretcher support board first, then attach to the 4x4s. Remember the screws will show here, so drill in pattern. Use 3" screws to attach.
Do both ends.
Step 3
Then add your top aprons with 1 1/2" pocket holes and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws.
NOT SHOWN: Drill 1 1/2" pocket holes on the insides of your aprons facing upward for later attaching the the tabletop too. Drill three holes per end apron.
Step 4
Now attach the two ends together to create your table frame.
NOT SHOWN: Drill 1 1/2" pocket holes on the insides of your aprons facing upward for later attaching the the tabletop too. Drill five holes per side apron.
Step 5
Attach base stretcher with pocket holes underneath.
Step 6
Now start building your tabletop.
Step 7
Measure and cut your breadboard ends to fit and attach to tabletop.
Step 8
Then attach the base to the tabletop through predrilled 1 1/2" pocket holes with 2 1/2" pocket hole screws.
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Comments
Matt F (not verified)
Tue, 01/01/2013 - 16:46
You have two options. Trim
You have two options. Trim the edges of the boards to eliminate the milled round-over form the sawmill. You will have to adjust the width of the table to accommodate this extra step. Second, and this is what I did, glue and screw the boards together. When you finish with Poly, the finish will seal the grooves. Wife and I built and finished ours in 3 days! Looks great.
Nicholas Paul Nelson
Sun, 01/06/2013 - 11:12
bench
does anyone know if there are plans for a matching bench to go with this table?
Hillary @ The … (not verified)
Mon, 01/14/2013 - 09:32
farmhouse bench
Not sure if the dimensions are right for this table, but here are the bench plans: http://ana-white.com/2011/01/plans/farmhouse-bench
bingo (not verified)
Mon, 01/07/2013 - 08:26
I am working on the table top
I am working on the table top and I have attached all the pieces together but the 2 x 10 has a slight bend. It makes the table have a twist to it in the middle. The bend in the middle makes all the boards uneven. Is there anyway to fix this?
Ive swapped out a couple of other 2 x 10's and they still have a slight bend in them
bingo (not verified)
Mon, 01/07/2013 - 08:36
I am working on the table top
I am working on the table top and I have attached all the pieces together but the 2 x 10 has a slight bend. It makes the table have a twist to it in the middle. The bend in the middle makes all the boards uneven. Is there anyway to fix this?
Ive swapped out a couple of other 2 x 10's and they still have a slight bend in them
Hillary @ The … (not verified)
Mon, 01/14/2013 - 09:35
If you have a friend with a
If you have a friend with a planer, you might be able to fix the twisted board by planing down the high part. It's really hard to find good 2x8s and 2x10s -- sometimes I have to dig through the whole pile of them at Lowe's, but getting the straightest possible wood to start with is your best bed.
camilton
Sat, 01/12/2013 - 07:14
Types of Wood
Hi, I'm new to this site and to the world of DIY. This table is going to be my first project as my current one is falling apart.
What is going to be the best type of wood to use to make this table? something that will good for a table and will take a stain pretty well?
Thanks! Love this site!
Hillary @ The … (not verified)
Mon, 01/14/2013 - 09:40
The plans for this table are
The plans for this table are for framing lumber, which doesn't really come in a variety of species. Usually you get fir or pine, both of which work equally well for this. You're best bet is to find the driest wood you can, no matter the species. If it feels cool/moist when you lay your hand on it, skip it. If it is really heavy, skip it. Go to a different store and see if you can find something drier. You can get other species in 2x lumber at a "real" woodworking store (not Lowe's or HD) but you'll pay probably $7/board foot for the wood (or more), versus under a dollar a foot for framing lumber. Framing lumber takes stain fine, just sand it well and be generous with the wood conditioner. And test on scraps first to get the color you want -- you can always return cans of stain you decide aren't right.
Hillary @ The … (not verified)
Mon, 01/14/2013 - 09:30
modified Farmhouse table -- scaled to 6'
I've posted a modified cut list and shopping list for scaling this down to 6' and giving more overhang on the breadboard ends. Hopefully this will be helpful to someone! http://thefriendlyhome.blogspot.com/2013/01/6-farmhouse-table.html
Aleesha (not verified)
Tue, 01/22/2013 - 22:25
Okay...I may have screwed my tabletop up...
So I'm relatively new to woodworking. I've done lots of small projects with my dad growing up and with my husband in the last few years- but nothing big like a table. I thought I could handle it though, if everyone else could. WRONG. At least I THINK wrong. SO I have my tabletop all assembled using pocket-holes- except for the breadboard ends. I didn't want to attach them till I had the rest right. I used the plan with the 10 inch board in the center and 2 8 inch boards on each side. I placed a pocket hole every 10 inches and the boards have no gaps between them- but they wiggle. I was expecting to be able to pick up the whole table top- and I can, but I can move the boards with just a little bit of pressure. I'm not sure if its because the boards weren't perfectly straight but they looked pretty darn perfect...other than the fact that they are rounded anyway- is that what's causing it to have a little give? When I attach it to the apron with that give go away? Or maybe when I attach the breadboard ends? Does anyone even know what I am talking about? I just feel like it should't be wiggly. Can you tell me what I might have done wrong? I have screwed all the pocket holes in as tightly as I can. I thought about adding more screws, or just adding a support across the middle or something- but what I really want to know is what did I do wrong?