Farmhouse Table - Updated Pocket Hole Plans

Submitted by Ana White on Mon, 11/12/2012 - 10:01
Difficulty
Intermediate
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Free plans to build a Farmhouse Table. This plan uses pocket holes and is the updated plan.

At our last book signing in Anchorage - thank you Anchorage, you were wonderful! - a couple came up to me and showed me an absolutely beautiful console table they made. Definitely the best part of the signings is when I get to see pictures and talk to people one on one.

And as we talked, the husband told me he had just returned from deployment, and how building furniture for their home had helped him adjust to returning home. He thanked me for putting plans out there that he could use.

And I thought, thank me? I need to be thanking you, for protecting our freedom.

Thank you, Veterans, for giving us freedom to live and pursue our dreams. And thank you, to those of you serving now, for continuing to make our country great. Happy Veteran's Day.

We certainly have much to be thankful for, don't we?

Are you celebrating Thanksgiving this year? It is definitely my most favorite holiday, with no exception. I love Thanksgiving and look forward to it all year.

If you are hosting Thanksgiving, what could be more true tradition than to serve a home cooked meal of thanks on a handmade harvest table? I'm guessing the folks back at the original Thanksgiving dinner made their own table too.

We of course have the perfect Farmhouse Table for you.

image from Country Living Magazine/photo by Lucas Allen

But with Thanksgiving just a couple weeks away, think you don't have time to build this table? Well, with special thanks to Hillary at The Friendly Home, we've made this table easier than every to build.

Hillary made this table with pocket holes instead of adding the 2x2 supports as done in the original plan, saving a ton of cuts and holes to be drilled, which saves time and money. Also, by using pocket holes, we hide most all of the screw holes, so a beautiful stained finish like Hillary's is very easy to do.

The easy to do pocket hole plan follows if you want to build this table. And as always, Hillary delivers a beautiful finish, and you can get all the details on how Hillary finished her table here. I love the stain color and will have to try it as well!

PS - Don't have a pocket hole jig? Here's the original Farmhouse Table Plans.

PSS - Have trouble finding 4x4s? Check out the book Farmhouse Table plans!

Dimensions
Dimensions shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List

4 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long
1 - 4x4 @ 10 feet long
4 - 2x8 @ 6 feet long
1 - 2x8 @ 8 feet long (breadboard ends)
1 - 2x10 @ 6 feet long

Common Materials
Cut List

4 - 4x4 posts @ 29" (legs)
2 - 2x4 @ 67" (long aprons)
2 - 2x4 @ 27" (short aprons)
1 - 2x4 @ 74" (stretcher)
2 - 2x4 @ 34" (stretcher supports)
4 - 2x8 @ 70.5" (table top planks)
1 - 2x10@ 70.5" (center table top plank -- I had to use one 2x10 to get the right overall width)
2 - 2x8 ~38" (breadboard ends -- measure your joined tabletop before cutting these)

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Power Sander
Level
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

First, cut and notch out the 4x4s. If you can get your home improvement store to make square cuts, ask them to cut your 4x4s. Otherwise, you'll need a 12" (maybe a 10" will work too) miter saw or set your circular saw to the deepest possible cut. Cut one side, flip the 4x4 and finish the cut on the bottom side. Sand until cut is smooth. You'll probably add cork or felt pads under the legs later on to level table up and protect your floor.

Then notch out the stretcher joint as shown in diagram. Definitely practice first on a scrap if you can. This is easier to do than it looks - just be sure to get the top and bottom cut right, and it will all work out!

Step 2

Notch out the stretcher support board first, then attach to the 4x4s. Remember the screws will show here, so drill in pattern. Use 3" screws to attach.

Do both ends.

Step 3

Then add your top aprons with 1 1/2" pocket holes and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws.

NOT SHOWN: Drill 1 1/2" pocket holes on the insides of your aprons facing upward for later attaching the the tabletop too. Drill three holes per end apron.

Step 4

Now attach the two ends together to create your table frame.

NOT SHOWN: Drill 1 1/2" pocket holes on the insides of your aprons facing upward for later attaching the the tabletop too. Drill five holes per side apron.

Step 5

Step 6

Now start building your tabletop.

Step 7

Measure and cut your breadboard ends to fit and attach to tabletop.

Step 8

Then attach the base to the tabletop through predrilled 1 1/2" pocket holes with 2 1/2" pocket hole screws.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

bingo (not verified)

Mon, 01/07/2013 - 08:26

I am working on the table top and I have attached all the pieces together but the 2 x 10 has a slight bend. It makes the table have a twist to it in the middle. The bend in the middle makes all the boards uneven. Is there anyway to fix this?

Ive swapped out a couple of other 2 x 10's and they still have a slight bend in them

bingo (not verified)

Mon, 01/07/2013 - 08:36

I am working on the table top and I have attached all the pieces together but the 2 x 10 has a slight bend. It makes the table have a twist to it in the middle. The bend in the middle makes all the boards uneven. Is there anyway to fix this?

Ive swapped out a couple of other 2 x 10's and they still have a slight bend in them

Hillary @ The … (not verified)

Mon, 01/14/2013 - 09:35

If you have a friend with a planer, you might be able to fix the twisted board by planing down the high part. It's really hard to find good 2x8s and 2x10s -- sometimes I have to dig through the whole pile of them at Lowe's, but getting the straightest possible wood to start with is your best bed.

camilton

Sat, 01/12/2013 - 07:14

Hi, I'm new to this site and to the world of DIY. This table is going to be my first project as my current one is falling apart.

What is going to be the best type of wood to use to make this table? something that will good for a table and will take a stain pretty well?

Thanks! Love this site!

Hillary @ The … (not verified)

Mon, 01/14/2013 - 09:40

The plans for this table are for framing lumber, which doesn't really come in a variety of species. Usually you get fir or pine, both of which work equally well for this. You're best bet is to find the driest wood you can, no matter the species. If it feels cool/moist when you lay your hand on it, skip it. If it is really heavy, skip it. Go to a different store and see if you can find something drier. You can get other species in 2x lumber at a "real" woodworking store (not Lowe's or HD) but you'll pay probably $7/board foot for the wood (or more), versus under a dollar a foot for framing lumber. Framing lumber takes stain fine, just sand it well and be generous with the wood conditioner. And test on scraps first to get the color you want -- you can always return cans of stain you decide aren't right.

Aleesha (not verified)

Tue, 01/22/2013 - 22:25

So I'm relatively new to woodworking. I've done lots of small projects with my dad growing up and with my husband in the last few years- but nothing big like a table. I thought I could handle it though, if everyone else could. WRONG. At least I THINK wrong. SO I have my tabletop all assembled using pocket-holes- except for the breadboard ends. I didn't want to attach them till I had the rest right. I used the plan with the 10 inch board in the center and 2 8 inch boards on each side. I placed a pocket hole every 10 inches and the boards have no gaps between them- but they wiggle. I was expecting to be able to pick up the whole table top- and I can, but I can move the boards with just a little bit of pressure. I'm not sure if its because the boards weren't perfectly straight but they looked pretty darn perfect...other than the fact that they are rounded anyway- is that what's causing it to have a little give? When I attach it to the apron with that give go away? Or maybe when I attach the breadboard ends? Does anyone even know what I am talking about? I just feel like it should't be wiggly. Can you tell me what I might have done wrong? I have screwed all the pocket holes in as tightly as I can. I thought about adding more screws, or just adding a support across the middle or something- but what I really want to know is what did I do wrong?

warrenlee

Mon, 12/01/2014 - 19:07

You might want to use glue on the boards prior to screwing them together. Once you have them glued and screwed, let them set for a little before handling them so the glue has some time to bond. You can get glue that is quick setting.