Farmhouse Table - Updated Pocket Hole Plans

Submitted by Ana White on Mon, 11/12/2012 - 10:01
Difficulty
Intermediate
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Free plans to build a Farmhouse Table. This plan uses pocket holes and is the updated plan.

At our last book signing in Anchorage - thank you Anchorage, you were wonderful! - a couple came up to me and showed me an absolutely beautiful console table they made. Definitely the best part of the signings is when I get to see pictures and talk to people one on one.

And as we talked, the husband told me he had just returned from deployment, and how building furniture for their home had helped him adjust to returning home. He thanked me for putting plans out there that he could use.

And I thought, thank me? I need to be thanking you, for protecting our freedom.

Thank you, Veterans, for giving us freedom to live and pursue our dreams. And thank you, to those of you serving now, for continuing to make our country great. Happy Veteran's Day.

We certainly have much to be thankful for, don't we?

Are you celebrating Thanksgiving this year? It is definitely my most favorite holiday, with no exception. I love Thanksgiving and look forward to it all year.

If you are hosting Thanksgiving, what could be more true tradition than to serve a home cooked meal of thanks on a handmade harvest table? I'm guessing the folks back at the original Thanksgiving dinner made their own table too.

We of course have the perfect Farmhouse Table for you.

image from Country Living Magazine/photo by Lucas Allen

But with Thanksgiving just a couple weeks away, think you don't have time to build this table? Well, with special thanks to Hillary at The Friendly Home, we've made this table easier than every to build.

Hillary made this table with pocket holes instead of adding the 2x2 supports as done in the original plan, saving a ton of cuts and holes to be drilled, which saves time and money. Also, by using pocket holes, we hide most all of the screw holes, so a beautiful stained finish like Hillary's is very easy to do.

The easy to do pocket hole plan follows if you want to build this table. And as always, Hillary delivers a beautiful finish, and you can get all the details on how Hillary finished her table here. I love the stain color and will have to try it as well!

PS - Don't have a pocket hole jig? Here's the original Farmhouse Table Plans.

PSS - Have trouble finding 4x4s? Check out the book Farmhouse Table plans!

Dimensions
Dimensions shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List

4 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long
1 - 4x4 @ 10 feet long
4 - 2x8 @ 6 feet long
1 - 2x8 @ 8 feet long (breadboard ends)
1 - 2x10 @ 6 feet long

Common Materials
Cut List

4 - 4x4 posts @ 29" (legs)
2 - 2x4 @ 67" (long aprons)
2 - 2x4 @ 27" (short aprons)
1 - 2x4 @ 74" (stretcher)
2 - 2x4 @ 34" (stretcher supports)
4 - 2x8 @ 70.5" (table top planks)
1 - 2x10@ 70.5" (center table top plank -- I had to use one 2x10 to get the right overall width)
2 - 2x8 ~38" (breadboard ends -- measure your joined tabletop before cutting these)

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Power Sander
Level
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

First, cut and notch out the 4x4s. If you can get your home improvement store to make square cuts, ask them to cut your 4x4s. Otherwise, you'll need a 12" (maybe a 10" will work too) miter saw or set your circular saw to the deepest possible cut. Cut one side, flip the 4x4 and finish the cut on the bottom side. Sand until cut is smooth. You'll probably add cork or felt pads under the legs later on to level table up and protect your floor.

Then notch out the stretcher joint as shown in diagram. Definitely practice first on a scrap if you can. This is easier to do than it looks - just be sure to get the top and bottom cut right, and it will all work out!

Step 2

Notch out the stretcher support board first, then attach to the 4x4s. Remember the screws will show here, so drill in pattern. Use 3" screws to attach.

Do both ends.

Step 3

Then add your top aprons with 1 1/2" pocket holes and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws.

NOT SHOWN: Drill 1 1/2" pocket holes on the insides of your aprons facing upward for later attaching the the tabletop too. Drill three holes per end apron.

Step 4

Now attach the two ends together to create your table frame.

NOT SHOWN: Drill 1 1/2" pocket holes on the insides of your aprons facing upward for later attaching the the tabletop too. Drill five holes per side apron.

Step 5

Step 6

Now start building your tabletop.

Step 7

Measure and cut your breadboard ends to fit and attach to tabletop.

Step 8

Then attach the base to the tabletop through predrilled 1 1/2" pocket holes with 2 1/2" pocket hole screws.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

ryanvincentmuir

Tue, 03/01/2016 - 10:05

Do you use pocket wholes to attach the bread board to the base? or is the breadboard only attached to the table top? In the pictures and building instructions it looks like the table top is only attached with pocket holes on the long apron side. Also I am using 2x10s  as my bread boards, has anyone run into problems with this? I want to make sure that 2x10s are not to long!

Billbonner5

Tue, 03/29/2016 - 05:19

Love your site!  How much sanding do you typically do on each table top you build?  I find myself using my belt sander and planer a lot, like a lot!  Using 50 grit sandpaper at first for all the uneven joints. Am I the only one?  Pictures online always look like your table tops are perfect. What's your secret?

tollys103079

Wed, 05/11/2016 - 07:19

When you build these farm style tables what type of wood do you typically use.  I have access to a jointer and Planer, but when I do that the edges are not the same.  I just built a farmhouse table using 2x12's because they came in douglas fir and were kiln dried.  I am struggling to find decent Kiln Dried 2x6s in the area that are dry enough so I do not have to worry about them warping after it is built or is that not a concern once it is built.

 

Thanks

mike.berttucci

Tue, 07/19/2016 - 05:01

I am hoping to make this table 8 ft long (about 1 foot longer than the current plans) and a few inches wider as well. To make it longer, all I am planning on doing is cutting the top boards, stretcher, and lengthwise apron 1 foot longer. I don't think this would add any kind of problem but wanted to see if anyone had any thoughts or pitfalls I may run into. 

 

To make it a few inches wider, I may just use a 2x12 on the center top board instead of a 2x10. I would keep the frame the same (end aprons would stay same). Would that create too much pressure on the outside top boards, since each side would then have an additional inch hanging off the side? Again, I am not sure, though I wouldn't think 1 inch on each side would create too big a problem. Any suggestions?

Valburton82

Thu, 07/21/2016 - 17:20

My husband and I will embark in the adventure of building this farmhouse table for our new home but we're debating what type of wood should we get to build it.

Can someone give me a little advice as to what type of wood you used, or you think will be best for this project?

Thanks!

 

RustyPine

Fri, 07/22/2016 - 09:42

I use a lot of yellow pine to build my projects. Its very strong and takes stain very well and it will last for ages

makes for a great table and fairly inexpensive a table of that size should cost roughly 50.00 in wood andanother 30-40 in screws-nails ans stain..ohh and dont forget the wood filler for screw holes and such..