Farmhouse Washer Dryer Pedestals Bases

Submitted by Ana White on Mon, 07/08/2019 - 10:39
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Build your own washer and dryer pedestal bases to bring your laundry up in height.  Also includes storage for baskets.  You'll love the step by step diagrams and cut list.  

farmhouse laundry room washer dryer pedestal base



laundry room pedestal bases

Special thanks to Sausha for letting us create this tutorial from her laundry room bases.

dimensions diagram for the laundry base
Dimensions shown above. Measure your laundry machines and adjust to fit. Also note the size under the bases can be adjusted for laundry basket heights by simply changing the cuts of the 4x4 legs.


Shopping List
  • 2 – sheet of 3/4″ MDF or Plywood
  • 5 – 2×4 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 – 4×4 post @ 4 feet long (you can also use 2x4s laminated together – just add another 2×4 to your list)
  • 1 – stick of base cap moulding like this @ 6 feet long and 1" brad nails for attaching
  • 4 – Angle Brackets (like these)
  • 3″ self tapping wood screws
  • 2″ self tapping wood screws


Cut List
  • 10 – 2×4 @ 25″ (Joists)
  • 4 – 2×4 @ 60″ (Sides of Floor)
  • 2 – 3/4″ Plywood or MDF @ 28″ x 60″ (Decking)
  • 4 – 4×4 Posts (or 8 2x4s) @ 11″ (Posts)
  • Moulding cut to fit
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Circular Saw
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Drill Bit Set


Step 1


You are basically going to build two mini floors for this project. The top floor need to be built as shown above.

The bottom floor you can skip the center joists (minimal weight on bottom shelf)

Use glue and 3″ self tapping screws to build the framing.  You can also use pocket holes if you have a Kreg Jig, on the 1-1/2" setting with 2-1/2" pocket hole screws.

Step 2


Screw the plywood to the top of the 2x4s with glue.

Step 3

Corner Angles

This step is just because I have an old school washer and dryer that stomps out of the laundry room whenever I overloaded it. But the angles are cheap and will make your life easier. Screw down with 2″ screws.

Step 4

Attach Legs

Attach the legs to the top (the floor with the center supports) and screw down. If you can, add a few screws at an angle in as well.

Step 5

Place the second "floor" on the 4x4s and screw through the 3/4" plywood into the undersides of the 4x4 legs.  At least three screws per leg is recommended.

Step 6


Cut trim to fit and attach around legs to fancy up the base (optional)

Step 7

Additional Bracing

If you find your base needs more support here are a few quick fixes -

  • Cover the entire back in 3/4" plywood or MDF scraps from the build, glue and screw every 4" approximately to the 4x4 legs and the 2x4 framing with 3" self tapping screws.
  • Attach the 2x4s framing to studs in the walls
Finishing Instructions
Finish Used
Sausha trimmed everything out with another layer of MDF. If you are good with a table saw this can really give you that finished look. Otherwise, I recommend patience, and a whole tub of wood filler. More details on Sausha’s finish here.

Thanks Sausha!


Joshthepants (not verified)

Thu, 01/27/2011 - 12:23

This is cool, I showed it to my wife and she decided that I get to build it this weekend. Should be fun.

Karen (not verified)

Thu, 01/27/2011 - 12:32

I love these, but my hubby is worried because it doesn't have a center support. Makes me wonder - how DOES it support itself from the middle?

MichaelB (not verified)

Tue, 09/27/2011 - 12:48

From the look of the plans, the base and top are torsion boxes. Very strong when you make a frame and skin it with plywood (I would use that for more rigidity). You can make it even stronger by skinning both sides with plywood.

Hope that helps.


Larry (not verified)

Sun, 12/16/2012 - 01:50

I agree with Michael. Making the top platform of the pedestal a torsion box, with plywood on the top and bottom, will add considerable strength. To save money, the bottom of the torsion box, could be a thinner plywood . I would go with 1/2 inch plywood.

The top on the bottom platform could be thinner as well, considering that it wouldn’t carry much of a point load, except at the corners. Adding a short piece of 2x4, on edge, diagonally across all the corners at the ends of both frames to support the thinner plywood would solve that problem.

Finally, you will stabilize the whole assembly by adding some 1/2 inch plywood, between the top and bottom platforms, on the ends of the pedestal as well as on it’s back. The back piece doesn’t need to go all the way across the back. A short piece, on the back at each end will do fine.

Hope this helps.

Tiffany (not verified)

Thu, 01/27/2011 - 12:33

Beautiful pedestal- amazing. One note of caution for those tempted to get a front-loader... if your laundry room is on the 2nd floor (as is common in CA) or on a floor that is NOT concrete (not on the slab or in the basement on the foundation), take a good look at the vibration the machine of your heart's desire creates- we have a front loader that has been on slab twice and on floor (over basement, so on joists) once. On the slab- it's a dream. On a joist floor- a nightmare. Shaking the house down! And a pedestal of any kind will just magnify the vibration and make it worse (lesson neighbor learned). The appliance stores won't tell you that little surprise- laundry-doer beware :) Some are supposed to be OK for vibration- do your research, please!

Pam the Goatherd (not verified)

Thu, 01/27/2011 - 14:03

Ana, if your dryer is noisy it could be something as simple as needing a new idler pulley. They are inexpensive and easy to replace. I've changed them out all by myself, though it is easier if you have a partner to hold the drum in place while you put the belt back on.

Darla (not verified)

Thu, 01/27/2011 - 17:54

THIS is the answer to my problem of having nowhere to put the laundry basket dresser! Thank you Ana and Sausha!!

Andrea (not verified)

Fri, 01/28/2011 - 06:02

This is nothing short of amazing! I can't wait to make this. Right now our laundry basket lives in a tiny, tiny mud room... on top of the dryer, which makes sorting laundry challenging when you're only 5 ft tall!

Tiffany (not verified)

Fri, 01/28/2011 - 08:01

I asked this question on facebook, but haven't had much response, so I thought I would ask here too. I was wondering if a person could use stock lumber like 1x8s or 1x10s for the sheeting on the tops of each level of this. I understand it may take some adjustments in measurements, but it would also make it easier to paint and/or distress without having to use a tub of wood filler. Since 1xs are 3/4 inch, wouldn't it be similar to 3/4 inch plywood?

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