Frameless Nightstands with Drawers and Shelves - Frame a Set of 2 from 1 Sheet of Plywood

two nightstands one sheet of plywood
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Difficulty
Intermediate
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Build a matching set of extra-large modern nightstands framed from just one sheet of plywood! These DIY frameless nightstands feature a spacious drawer, two large open shelves, and a clean, simple design that fits any style. With minimal waste, detailed step-by-step diagrams, and a full shopping and cut list, this free plan makes it easy to create beautiful, functional bedside tables on a budget.

Design image is rendered from plans

free plans nightstands

No one likes having a bunch of random plywood scraps lying around—or worse, having to buy a second sheet of plywood just to finish a project and end up with tons of waste. That’s exactly why I designed this woodworking plan: to build two large, modern nightstands from a single sheet of plywood, with minimal waste and maximum functionality.

Each nightstand features a clean, frameless design, a full-width drawer for hidden storage, and two large open shelves—perfect for books, baskets, or bedside essentials. They're generously sized and sturdy enough to double as small side tables or even mini bookcases.

I originally built these nightstands for an HGTV show, and a decade later—they’re still being used and going strong. Whether you're furnishing a guest room, a primary bedroom, or even looking for stylish living room storage, this plan makes it easy, affordable, and efficient to build a beautiful matching set.

The free plans include step-by-step diagrams, a shopping list, and a cut layout to help you get the most from your plywood. Build smart, build beautiful—without the leftover pile of scrap!

Dimensions
dimensions of nightstands diagram
Dimensions are shown above - warning, this nightstand is HUGE!!!

Preparation

Shopping List

For TWO Nightstands

  • 1 - sheet of 3/4" thick plywood ripped into strips 15-3/4" wide x 8 feet long
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 6 feet long
  • 1 - sheet of 1/4" plywood or other hardboard for backs and drawer bottoms
  • 2 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long (for building drawers)
  • 1 - 1x8 @ 5 feet long (drawer faces)
  • 1-1/4" pocket hole screws for assembling carcass and drawers
  • 3/4" brad nails or brads for attaching back and drawer bottom
  • 1-1/4" brad nails or brads for attaching trim/drawer face
  • 2 - set of drawer slides (recommend euro style drawer slide, 14" length)
  • 2 knobs or handles
  • Edge banding is recommend
  • 12 feet of base moulding (4-1/4") 12 feet of cove moulding for the top edge
Cut List

For TWO nightstands

CARCASSES

  • 2 - 3/4" plywood @ 15-3/4" x 30" (tops)
  • 4 - 3/4" plywood @ 15-3/4" x 29-1/4" (sides)
  • 4 - 3/4" plywood @ 15-3/4" x 28-1/2" (shelves)
  • 4 - 1x2 @ 28-1/2" (bottom shelf support)
  • 2 - 1/4" plywood @ 30" x 30" (backs)

DRAWERS - Adjust to fit your openings and drawer slides, measurements shown are for 1/2" clearance (1" overall clearance) drawers slides)

  • 4 - 1x4 @ 14" - drawer box sides
  • 4 - 1x4 @ 26" - drawer box front and backs
  • 2 - 1/4" plywood @ 27-1/2" x 14" (drawer bottoms)
  • 2 - 1x8 @ 28-3/8" (drawer face)

Cut moulding to fit

Cutting Instructions

You can rip plywood without a tablesaw like this:
 

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
General Instructions

Plywood edges can be finished using this technique

 

Instructions

Step 1

Build the basic box out of the plywood. If you are staining, you may wish to edge band the front edges before you assemble. Shelf can be attached fixed (you may wish to attach after installing the drawer) or you can make a floating shelf with shelf pins.

Step 2

This board will tie in the bottom, help keep the piece square, and also give you something to attach the base moulding to.

Step 3

Attach back to the back with glue and finish nails.

Step 4

Miter the corners of the base moulding and wrap bottom with finish nails and glue.

Step 5

Use 1-1/4" brad nails to nails the drawer box together and glue.  Use 3/4" staples or brad nails to attach the 1/4" plywood to the bottom of the drawer box.  Use the plywood to square up the drawer box.

Here is a video showing how to build drawers and install them for this type of drawer slide

 

Step 6

Install drawer inside cabinet, not more than 7" from top (to allow drawer face to hide drawer box) using drawer slides. Inset drawers 3/4" from outside of the nightstand.

Step 7

Attach drawer face to front of drawer with a couple of finish nails from outside. Then remove drawer and add a few 1-1/4" screws from inside. TIP: attach hardware to drawer face first.

Step 8

Trim bottom edge of drawer out with remaining 1x2. Can be attached with pocket holes or 1-1/4" finish nails from outside.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

freefromburdens

Wed, 07/02/2014 - 15:02

Great nightstands. Sorry I missed the shows. I'm so glad I have a chance to see it next time around. I checked my stations and it will air July 13th at 5pm on the DIY channel.

spiceylg

Wed, 07/02/2014 - 19:32

I am so excited for you with this new journey you are on and much deserved, I must say. Didn't catch them this time around and sure hope I am able to next time. Nice night stands, too!

JoanneS

Thu, 07/03/2014 - 17:28

Great nightstands! The plans are awesome and the finished build is beautiful. Love the finish too!

NoëlD

Mon, 07/07/2014 - 23:31

Episode 1 will be showing on DIY Sunday the 13th at 2:00 PM on Comcast.
Look forward to watching it.

Risewithin

Thu, 10/30/2014 - 10:38

Maybe im missing someone here but I went out and bought a sheet to make these not really calculating but putting my full trust these plans were right. After stripping down to 15 3/4" x 96" like the plans say i was able to get everything but 1 shelf. I get 3 rows of 15 3/4" on a 4x8 sheet which gives me a total of 288" where as in the cut list you would need more than that to actually complete these stands. Like I said, maybe I missed something but im missing a whole shelf so now I need to buy a gaga lf sheet or Soo. I don't know how everyone in these comments got the full stands out of one sheet. 

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!