Free Plans Lightweight Cornhole Boards – Easy, Affordable, and Fun to Build

lightweight corn hole board free plans
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Build your own lightweight cornhole boards with this easy and affordable DIY project. Using simple materials like 1x3s and 1/2" plywood, you can make portable cornhole boards for under $25 each. Perfect for beginners, these boards are fun to build and easy to customize with paint or stain—great for backyard games, tailgating, and summer parties.

Image is rendering base off plan diagrams

 

The Perfect Weekend Project

Looking for a super fun weekend project that’s easy, budget-friendly, and guaranteed to bring joy to your backyard? These DIY lightweight cornhole boards are the perfect solution! Designed with beginners in mind, they use minimal tools, affordable materials, and simple construction techniques—making them a great build for anyone, even if you’re new to woodworking.

 


 

Lightweight and Easy to Handle

What makes these boards truly awesome is how lightweight and portable they are. Traditional cornhole boards can be heavy and hard to carry, but this design uses 1x3 framing and 1/2" plywood, which keeps things strong but much easier to move around. Take them to picnics, BBQs, tailgates, or just set them up in the backyard—no hassle!

 


 

Super Affordable to Build

You can build four full-size boards from a single sheet of plywood and a few furring strips—keeping your cost per board under $25. That’s way cheaper than buying a set, and way more satisfying to build with your own two hands.

 


 

Customize Your Way

This is where the fun really begins. These boards are a blank canvas for creativity!

  • Paint them your favorite team colors

  • Stain for a rustic or modern finish

  • Let the kids decorate with stencils or handprints

The smooth plywood top takes paint or finish beautifully, so you can totally make them your own.

 


 

Video of Building these Cornhole Boards

Video coming soon!

Dimensions
lightweight corn hole boards plans
Regulation Size

Preparation

Shopping List

For Set of 2 Corn Hole Boards

  • 4 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long (can be furring strips for budget option)
  • 1 - 48" x 48" sheet of 1/2" thick exterior plywood, with one smooth side (AC or sanded) - can also purchase two 24" x 48" panels
  • 50 - 1-5/8" star bit, flat headed exterior decking screws
  • 4 - 2" long, 1/4" diameter shaft, exterior bolts
  • 4 - 1/4" locking nuts (matches bolts)
  • 8 - fender washers that match the bolts
  • 1/4" drill bit
  • Bean bags (8 total, in sets of 4 in different colors)

For Set of 4 Corn Hole Boards

  • 8 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long (can be furring strips for budget option)
  • 1 - 96" x 48" sheet of 1/2" thick exterior plywood, with one smooth side (AC or sanded) - can also purchase two 24" x 48" panels
  • 100 - 1-5/8" star bit, flat headed exterior decking screws
  • 8 - 2" long, 1/4" diameter shaft, exterior bolts
  • 8 - 1/4" locking nuts (matches bolts)
  • 16 - fender washers that match the bolts
  • 1/4" drill bit
  • Bean bags (16 total, in sets of 4 in different colors)

 

Cut List

For Set of 2 Corn Hole Boards

  • 4- 1x3 @ 48"
  • 6 - 1x3 @ 22-1/2"
  • 4 - 1x3 @ 11-1/2" - one end cut at 10 degrees off square, long point measurement
  • 2 - 1/2" thick plywood @ 24" x 48" (if using the 48"x48" panel, simply cut exactly in half)

For Set of 4 Corn Hole Boards

  • 8- 1x3 @ 48"
  • 12 - 1x3 @ 22-1/2"
  • 8 - 1x3 @ 11-1/2" - one end cut at 10 degrees off square, long point measurement
  • 4 - 1/2" thick plywood @ 24" x 48" (if using the 48"x48" panel, simply cut exactly in quarters)
Cutting Instructions

For cutting 1x3 boards, cutting is easiest and safest using a miter saw.  Alternative cutting methods are to cut with a jigsaw, using a speed square to make crosscut marks, or a circular saw.  Always make the longest cuts first, to ensure all cuts fit on your materials.

If cutting plywood, marks centers of the full panels and draw line down centers of panel.  Then cut the line to divide the plywood either in half or quarters, depending on your starting plywood size and your desired number of finished pieces.  Finished sizes are approximately 2 foot x 4 foot, can be slight variation of this size.

plywood cutting diagrams

Follow instructions in plans for cutting the legs.

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Drill
Jigsaw
Power Sander

Instructions

Step 1

Layout the frame pieces on a flat level surface.  Attach the sides to the inside pieces with two screws per joint.  If wood is splitting, predrill holes.

Step 2

After frames are assembled, mark the center of the holes to drill for the bolts.

Drill a hole on the center point.  Making a small indentation in the center point with a screw first can help keep the hole centered when starting the drilling, keeping the drill bit from "walking".

Step 3

Attach plywood panels to the tops of the frames with glue and screws (use about 12 screws to attach the plywood to the top)

Mark out the location of the bean bag toss hole and use a protractor to draw the 6" hole.

Drill a hole inside the hole with your 1/4" drill bit, so you have somewhere to start the jigsaw.

Use your jigsaw to carefully cut out the hole.

Step 4

Cut the legs with one end cut at 10 degrees off square, the other end is straight cut.  If you don't have a miter saw to make the 10 degrees off square cut, you can simply mark up 1/2" on one end, and mark a triangle back the long end, and cut off with a jigsaw or circular saw.

Mark the location of the bolt hole and drill out with 1/4" drill bit.

Finally, mark the corners off the top and cut off with circular saw or jigsaw.

Step 5

Attach the legs to the frame with the hardware in this order:

Bolt | Fender Washer | Side 1x3 | Leg 1x3 | Fender Washer | Locking Nut

Test and make sure the legs fold smoothly.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Finish with an exterior finish suitable for decking.
Project Type
Room
Seasonal And Holiday

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!