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Grandy Barn Door Console

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Submitted by Ana White on Wed, 08/05/2015 - 12:03
Difficulty
Intermediate
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How to build barn door console or buffet - free plans by ANA-WHITE.com

See also: Simplified 8' Barn Door Console Plans

ana white barn door console
barn door console

Man oh man do I ever have a treat for you today!

Do you follow Nikki Grandy on Instagram yet?

If you do, you know she pretty much has redefined the sliding door console.

reclaimed wood barn door console beautiful distressed chippy paint

My personal favorite is her reclaimed wood version with herringbone pattern doors.

rustic distressed barn door sliding console furniture

How stunningly gorgeous is this barn door console?

Yep, she's letting me share plans with you!!!

The plans for this amazing barn door console follow, but one thing first - hop over to Instagram and follow nikki_grandy right now!

Have an awesome Wednesday!

Ana

PS - barn door hardware has come down alot in price!  

$50 for 8 foot long sliding door hardware from Amazon - and it has five star reviews!

Barn Door Console Plans

Dimensions
barn door console dimensions
Dimensions shown above. Can be altered in height and width.

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 2 - 2x10 @ 8 feet long
  • 2 - 1x8 @ 8 feet long
  • 2 - 1x10 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 sheet of 1/4" thick plywood or hardboard (for back)
  • 3 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 4 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long
  • 6 - 2x3 @ 8 feet long
  • 2 - project panel pieces 17-1/4" x 36" (may be advertised as 18" wide project panel - measure in store)
  • Hardware for sliding doors

 

Common Materials
2 1/2 inch screws
1 1/4 inch finish nails
Elmer's Wood Glue
Elmer's Wood Filler
Cut List

Frames

  • 4 - 2x3 @ 84"
  • 4 - 2x3 @ 17"
  • 4 - 2x3 @ 14"

Sides

  • 2 - 3/4" thick project panels or plywood 36" x 17-1/4"

Face Frame

  • 5 - 1x4 @ 36"
  • 8 - 1x4 @ 17-3/4"

Shelves

  • 2 - 1x8 @ 87"
  • 2 - 1x10 @ 87"

Middle Shelf Supports and Cleats

  • 5 - 1x2 @ 14"
  • 5 - 1x2 @ 17"

Back 

  • 1/4" plywood pieces 36" long

Bottom Trim

  • 1 - 1x2 @ 90" - both ends cut at 45 degrees, NOT parallel, longest point measurement
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 18-3/4" - one end cut at 45 degrees, longest point measurement

Top

  • 2 - 2x10 @ 91" 

  • Doors are cut to fit, overall 20" x 30"

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Miter Saw
Table Saw
Brad Nailer
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Build two frames out of 2x3s.  The frames should be screwed together as this is the main support for the entire piece.  Use 2-1/2" or longer screws, or for those of you with a Kreg Jig, use 1-1/2" pocket holes and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws.  Don't forget to glue the joints.

Don't be concrened about being perfect here, the entire frame is concealed.

Step 2

For the sides, add the side panels.  This plan is designed to work with project panels 17-1/4" wide.  You can use any material here, plywood or reclaimed wood too.  I recommend screwing these to the frames, but you could also use nails and glue - nails should be at least 1-1/4" long.  I love how the back overhangs by 1/4" to conceal the back (will put that on in later steps).

Step 3

Now the face frame.  With the projec ton it's back, lay out all the face frame boards and glue and nail down.  Nails should be at least 1-1/4" long. Pocket hole users could also build the face frame seperately and attach.

Step 4

Lay the bottom shelf boards down on the bottom frame.  Nail and glue down, with nails longer than 1-1/4".  There can be a gap between the boards, but the shelf should not go past the back of the bottom frame (sides overhang by 1/4" to allow for the back).

Step 5

Step 6

Build your bottom shelf by attaching bottom shelf boards to the shelf cleats.  Use 1-1/4" long nails and glue to attach.  Can have a gap in the middle.

Step 7

Place shelf inside console and attach from outsides to secure in place.  

Step 8

To get the planked look on the back of the console, Nikki ripped 1/4" plywood into strips and then attached the individual strips to the back.  You can also use full sheet of 1/4" plywood. You can use shorter nails here but if you don't want to buy a shorter nail (3/4" would be ideal) the 1-1/4" nails would be fine.

Step 9

The bottom is trimmed out in simple 1x2s, mitered around corners.  Use 1-1/4" nails and glue to secure.

Step 10

Attach top with the longer screws you used to build the top frames (2-1/2" or longer) so top is flush to back and side overhangs are even.  TIP: You may wish to stain the top boards first.

Step 11

Nikki built the doors shown with 1/2" plywood with smaller strips nailed on top, but you can use a variety of different methods to build the doors (love the reclaimed wood!) Nikki makes her own sliding door hardware too.

 

Jaime from That's My Letter provides a good tutorial on her sliding door hardware if you want to check that out.  

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Project Type
Console Table Plans
Buffet, Sideboard and Credenza Plans
Cabinet Plans
Media and Entertainment Centers
Room
Bedroom
dining room
entry way
living room

Comments

Ana White Admin

Tue, 01/12/2016 - 11:26

Hi Shannon,

This looks great, thanks for sharing! I checked out your blog and would love to share your herringbone top island linking to your site. Anyway to get nice photos of the piece in the kitchen? If so please email them to anawhitesite@gmail.com, or add to your site. If you're not interested, no problem. Thanks!

ryanb4614

Fri, 01/15/2016 - 15:39

Where is everyone finding the squared edges for the 2x10 on the top. Everywhere I looked they are rounded edges so I bought them don't like it.. Ran it through the table saw and to high of a gap in the center...

bbutts01

Mon, 01/25/2016 - 14:05

My husband would like to build this but our local hardware did not have the barn door hardware. Where can we purchase these from? Like the ones on the picture.

Thank you

imsomark

Tue, 02/02/2016 - 15:34

I'm trying to understand what is preventing the barn doors from rolling right off the rails. Can someone explain what I need to do to ensure that doesn't happen? 

G@Edwards

Sun, 04/17/2016 - 02:36

The plans are great, but what lumber is recommended for this project? And where is the best place to go for it(Home Depot)? If you go to a lumber supplier, how do you know what to get in Board Feet from these plans?

BojackH

Thu, 04/21/2016 - 18:55

either Lowes or Home Depot for the wood will be cheapest. Douglas fir (kiln dried and non pressure treated) for the 2x's and pine 'common board's for 1x's. We used some pallet boards for the backing. If you change the measurements from the template here so Ana's shopping list doesn't apply, you'll need to figure out how many boards you need of each based upon your cut list. I use this site calculator to simplify that so I don't need to rely on my terrible math skills: http://jonathan.overholt.org/projects/cutlist