Grant Secretary Hutch

Difficulty
Intermediate
| Print this plan

The secretary piece to the Grant Collection. Features six small drawers and a large shelf. Secretary top folds down for a desk.

Dimensions
Dimensions are shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List


  • 1 x20 Board leftover from base unit
  • 1/4 Sheet of 3/4″ Plywood or MDF (for the hinge out desktop)
  • Scrap 1/4″ plywood leftover from the base unit
  • 1 – 1×12 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 – 1×12 @ 10 feet long
  • 3 – 1×3 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 – stick 3/4″ moulding – 8 feet long  (if they sell these in 7 foot sticks, you can use that too)
  • 2 ” screws or 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1 1/4″ and 2″ finish nails
  • wood glue
  • wood filler
  • finishing supplies

Cut List


  • 1 – 1×20 @ 46 1/2″ (Bottom)
  • 2 – 1×20 @ 12 3/4″ (Sides)
  • 1 – 1×12 @ 48″ (Top)
  • 1 – 1/4″ Plywood @ 48″ x 13 1/2″
  • 8 – 1×12 @ 10 3/4″ (Shelves)
  • 4 – 1×12 @ 12″ (Sides)
  • 18 – 1×3 @ 10 1/2″ (Drawer Sides and Front)
  • 6 – 1×3 @ 9″ (Drawer Backs)
  • 6 – 1/4″ Plywood @ 10 1/2″ x 11 1/4″ (Drawer Bottoms)
  • 1 – 1×12 @ 22″ (Shelf)
  • 1 – 3/4″ Plywood @ 14″ x 48″

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Circular Saw
Jigsaw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Level
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

The base of the Secretary Hutch is a 1×20 @ 46 1/2″ long, or simply a piece of 3/4″ plywood or MDF cut to the size shown above.

Step 2

Sides and Bottom

Cut the sides out as shown above. 1x12s can vary in width so measure the width of your 1x12s and adjust the cuts as shown above. If you choose to have your 1x12s made from a sheet of 3/4″ plywood ripped into strips, to minimize waste, make your 1x12s 11 1/2″ wide.

Step 3

Top

Add the top to the hutch as shown above. Use screws and glue, as this piece is not fully face framed. Adjust for square.

Step 4

Back

Tack the back on to your SQUARE hutch. Use finish nails and glue or screws (you can use short ones).

Step 5

Step 6

Drawers

Make six of these little drawers. Just build a box from 1x3s as shown above (finish nails and glue would do just fine here) and tack 1/4″ plywood to the bottom. When you go to finish, make sure you sand and fill the edges of the 1/4″ plywood so it appears supper smooth.

Step 7

Shelf

Insert the two drawer pieces into the hutch and measure and cut your shelf to fit the difference. Should be 22″. You can either make the shelf fixed or drill holes and insert shelf pins according to the instruction on the shelf pin package (shelf pins can vary in size and installation methods). You can also add additional shelves if you like (for example, one shelf for the laptop, one for the keyboard and mouse storage).

Step 8

Edge Moulding

Cut the edge moulding to fit and nail and glue down, mitering corners at 45 degree angles.

Step 9

Flip Down Desk

Attach the flip down desk to the desk interior with hinges as shown above. You can use any standard low profile hinge here. Also recommended is hinge supports to keep the desktop open at just the right angle. Install magnetic clasps to keep the hinged top closed when closed on the insides of the sides.

Step 10

When you assemble the piece, make sure you screw the hutch to the base, as the hutch could tip forward when weight is placed on the flip down top. If you also add the top hutch, make sure you screw down and also use a tip resistant kit to keep the entire project from tipping forward.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

mindymom79

Tue, 04/12/2011 - 09:06

I love the flip down desk. I'm actually thinking of putting it in my kitchen, and using it as a baker's rack. What I'm wondering is if I put my kitchenaid mixer on it, will it break? and if so, is there a way to make it support more weight? Thanks.

Nesting (not verified)

Mon, 05/30/2011 - 10:46

Some flip-down hutches come with a drawer or even just 2-3 support beams that pull out under the flip-down door/work area to support the surface. You could easily build the base up about 2" and make slots for some pull-out support beams. This would allow it to take more weight, like your stand mixer.

David Britton,… (not verified)

Tue, 06/28/2011 - 15:42

Dear Ana,

It might help if you put sliding hindges on the end of the table that come down in front. Put them on the ends and fasten them to the side of the flop down and to the main hutch.

Guest (not verified)

Wed, 09/07/2011 - 19:35

could you give me a rough estimate for the cost and the time for this project? trying to figure out if it is worth attempting. thanks.

Rhoni T (not verified)

Wed, 09/28/2011 - 15:06

how is the plan for the hutch part of this plan listed? I have found the base and secetary plans.

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!