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Heavy Duty Adirondack Chair Plans with Back Leg and Footstool

Adirondack chair heavy duty
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Easy to build adirondack chair. We made the base stronger with all 2x4 framing.  This Adirondack chair is a reader favorite and has been built thousands of times.

We also have a modern version here.

This plan includes a footstool.  You can also build a matching coffee table and a matching side table.  Check out all our outdoor furniture plans here.

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No Pocket Hole Plans

 

 More Free Adirondack Chair Plans from Ana White

adirondack chair plansadirondack chair plansadirondack chair plansmodern adirondack chair plans

 

Sturdy Adirondack Chair Plans

Because we use 2x4s for the legs (and add the back leg) this decreases the overall cost, but increases the strength and durability.  This also makes the chairs easier to build.

But we don't sacrifice comfort - with the deep recline and optional footstool plans, these chairs won't disappoint.

ana white adirondack chair with side tables

 

Optional Footstool Plans

I have also created a matching footstool plan (see below) that works with this Adirondack chair.

heavy duty Adirondack chair

adirondack chair with footstool with ana white sitting in it

 

Video of Building this Adirondack Chair Plan

This plan is featured in Home Depots Adirondack chair video here:

More About Outdoor Wood Finishing

Outdoor furniture should be finished more like a deck than a dining table.  It's not complicated, but knowing just a few tips can make your furniture last much longer.  I share all my hard earned outdoor wood finishing secrets in this post.

 

 

 

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2x4 Adirondack Chair Plans with Back Leg and Footstool

Dimensions
dimensions diagram of Adirondack chair
Dimensions are shown above

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 3 – 2×4 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 – 2×2 @ 6 feet long
  • 4 – 1×4 @ 8 feet long
  • (30) 2 1/2” self tapping wood screws
  • (60) 2” self tapping wood screws
  • (20) 1 1/4” wood screws
  • exterior appropriate wood glue
Cut List

2 - 2x4 @ 20 3/4” long with BOTH ends cut PARALLEL at 15 degrees off square, long point to short point measurement (back legs)
2 - 2x4 @ 20” (front legs)
2 - 2x2 @ 26 1/2” long, longest point measurement, ONE end cut at 15 degrees off square (arm support)
2 - 2x4 @ 31 7/8” long, ONE end cut at 35 degrees off square to longest point, OTHER END cut at 20 degrees off square to shortest point - see step 1 (stringers)
2 - 2x4 @ 22 1/2” (front apron and back support)
5 - 1x4 @ 22 1/2” (seat slats)
5 - 1x4 @ 36” (back slats)
1 - 1x4 @ 19 1/2” (back top support)
1 - 2x4 @ 19 1/2” (back base support)
2 - 1x4 @ 27” (arm rests)

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Jigsaw
Miter Saw
Power Sander

Instructions

Step 1

From stretcher board, cut off top portion by marking with a square and cutting off with a jigsaw.  Do this on both stretcher boards.

Step 2

Attach one back leg and one front leg to a arm support with 2 1/2” exterior screws.  Keep the top and outside edges flush.  
 

Step 3

Mark front leg on inside with arm support on outside, as shown in diagram.  Leave 1 1/2” space in front of stretcher.  Attach stretcher to front and back legs with 2 1/2” exterior screws and glue.
 

Step 4

Build opposite side of chair in mirror, with arm supports to outside and stretcher to inside.  Make sure the two match up.
 

Step 5

Front Apron is attached to fronts of stretcher and from outside of chair for additional support.
 

Step 6

Begin at the front of the chair and attach seat slats to stretcher with 2” screws and glue.  Leave a 1/2” gap between seat slats.
 

Step 7

Attach back support to back legs with 2 1/2” exterior screws, matching up measurements in diagrams.
 

Step 8

Build back by attaching all back boards to seat back base support, leaving approximately 1/2” gap in between.  Then attach at top with 1 1/4” screws.  Cut arch shape on back top using a large round object to guide you.
 

Step 9

Place back inside chair and secure in place with 2 1/2” exterior screws.  Also screw back to back support with 2” exterior screws.
 

Step 10

Secure armrests to arm supports and tops of legs with screws and glue.

Step 11

Optional Adirondack Footstool Plans

Adding a footstool to your adirondack chair will increase the comfort!  We've included the plans below that match this adirondack plan.

 

FOOTSTOOL SHOPPING LIST

1 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long or stud length

1 - 1x4 @ 12 feet long

2” and 2 1/2” exterior screws

 

FOOTSTOOL CUT LIST

2 - 2x4 @ 23 1/2” long with both ends cut at 30 degrees off square, parallel to each other, long point to short point measurement (stringers)

6 - 1x4 @ 22 1/2” (top boards)

2 - 2x4 @ 13 3/4” long with one end cut at 30 degrees off square, longest point measurement (legs)

Step 12

diagram showing the footstool side cuts

Cut the adirondack foot stool stringers with a compound miter saw first.  Then use a square to mark the cut off and cut with jigsaw or circular saw.

Step 13

Use 2" screws and glue to attach the deck boards on top of the stringers.

Step 14

Attach legs with 2-1/2" screws to insides of the stringers to complete the footstool.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Project Type
Outdoor Projects
Outdoor Seating, Lounging and Accents
Room
Outdoor
Style
Cottage Style Furniture Plans
Farmhouse Furniture
Farmhouse Furniture
Rustic Furniture Plans

Comments

dakotacreekchic

Thu, 06/06/2013 - 23:25

Love the chairs...definitely want to make a few of these to have around the fire pit this summer...and congrats on your exciting news!! So happy for you.

JenWoodhouse.com

Fri, 06/07/2013 - 05:56

I was wondering if that was your design when I saw the DIH workshop on the calendar at my HD! I can't wait to build a couple of these... the weather has been beautiful so this workshop is coming at the perfect time!

randi

Fri, 06/07/2013 - 08:45

These are super! I'm definitely going to have to put these on the to-do list.

Any chance of adding a loveseat version to this collection?

Pursuit of Handyness

Sun, 06/16/2013 - 09:27

What is the big difference between this chair and the one in your book. I was all set to build six of the one you have in your book and then I saw your instagram post. Is it just stronger because of the 2x4's?

mjc8870

Thu, 06/27/2013 - 10:06

Are measurements correct. Some one commented that the measurements were wrong on the HD site.

mc4710a

Wed, 01/13/2016 - 06:46

The links don't seem to work to the Home Depot site. Do you know where I could find a copy of the plans?

DrSnuggles

Sun, 01/17/2016 - 19:04

I would really like to build these adirondack chairs but link still doesn't work? Anyone like to share the original plans since the Home Depot link doesn't work :(

thank u so much!!!

GamacheM1980

Tue, 02/23/2016 - 14:57

Thank you so much for the plans. Now I can make some of these around my firepit outside.

 

BullDog1968

Thu, 08/25/2016 - 18:11

I need to make a variation of these.  I had a stroke a while back and need the seat level and slightly higher. 

DMAC in TX

Sat, 01/06/2018 - 17:57

Thanks for sharing the pdf plans. I cannot upload any pics (its asking for an URL/link), but hope you don't mind I made some modifications to your easy to make and comfortable Adirondack design.  Changes:

1.  Arm rests are now 1x8.  Added holes and slot to hold wine glasses (2) front and (2) back

2.  Added a bottle shelf left side with metal band

3.  Customized the paint for neighbor who is a huge Oklahoma University fan (Red with OU decals)

jckarp3

Fri, 03/20/2020 - 13:07

Great plan!  I made two of these with slight modifications.  I used 2x4s instead of 1x4s, where called for.  I also used 1x6 fence posts for the back rest, seat (cut to 1x4) and arm rests, so it's pretty solid and heavy which is good considering the high winds we get in Colorado.  I was a little confused in determining the actual length of the pieces in Step 1 but eventually started with a 33" piece which gave me room to make those angled cuts.  Btw, after I made my first one my wife said, "That's great!  I want five more."  :-)

ajaynital302@g…

Wed, 04/22/2020 - 09:03

What type of wood do you recommend for this and other exterior wood projects. Look for a high quality look. Thanks

phj1616

Mon, 05/25/2020 - 19:08

Love the plans. Very easy to follow. I am ready to stain them. Prior to doing so I have sealed the bottom of the legs with epoxy to keep moisture from penetrating from underneath.

KyleChristensen01

Sun, 06/07/2020 - 11:54

This is a great, easy to follow plan. I made 5 of these chairs, and painted them vivid colors. My friends and neighbors love them. I used a Kreg jig to hide almost all fo the screws, for an even cleaner overall look.

My only recommendation is to reverse steps 6 and 7. Fastening that back support in first will help ensure you maintain the right distance between sides at the rear of the chair as you assemble the seat boards. This is a lesson learned through experience... I came up 1/2 inch short on 1, and couldn't set the back in place. It wasn't a huge deal to correct, but still... something better avoided.

asartori2391

Mon, 07/27/2020 - 04:29

These chairs are relatively simple to make - this is only my second time trying to make furniture, so this was a great tutorial to follow. I did find the video to be a helpful complement to this to figure out which side the screws should go on, etc. Like a lot of the comments, the stringer board was probably the most difficult to figure out. I was initially worried that they'd be a little on the smaller side, but was super happy to find that the size is perfect! I decided to paint mine black, and WOW do they look good. My husband told me they look like they'd cost $300 a piece from Restoration Hardware... now THAT'S a complement! I think it ended up costing right around $30-35 per chair in lumber, then a bit more if you factor in the wood screws, wood filler and paint. Time spent to build and prep for painting (so filling with wood filler and a final sanding) was closer to 6 hours per chair, then painting was about 2 hours per chair. I may be a little on the slower side (I tend to measure exactly where the pilot holes will go so everything looks consistent and symmetrical), but this is not a quick afternoon project (especially if you build six!!), but absolutely worth it!

petey10000

Thu, 04/08/2021 - 14:08

Made one of these chairs as a lockdown project. 2 points to make
1 this is a heavy duty chair the pictures don’t really seem to do justice to the 2x4 timber used.
2 some of the dimensions are definitely wrong. Look at step s 8 and 11 and do some simple maths.
The other thing I noticed was cutting the stringers. This didn’t seem to work quite right - this may have been my cutting though!

Pleased with final result though

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!