Hexagon Picnic Table

Submitted by Ana White on Wed, 04/08/2020 - 11:59
Difficulty
Advanced
| Print this plan

Free plans to build a hexagon shaped picnic table. Features six large bench seats and hexagon top, updating the casual classic into a more user-friendly backyard fav!

round picnic table plans

Photo by Amauter Steph

This plan has been updated.  If you need the original plans they are still available here.

Dimensions
round picnic table plans
Dimensions are shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List

6 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long

10 - 2x6 @ 8 feet long

150 - 2-1/2" to 3" long self tapping exterior screws, can be "deck screws" or "general construction screws"

Common Materials
2 1/2 inch screws
120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Cut List

Frame

  • 1 - 2x4 @ 51" - both ends cut at 30 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel, long point to long point measurement (main frame, top)
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 88" - both ends cut at 30 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel, long point to long point measurement (main frame, seat)
  • 6 - 2x4 @ 33" - both ends cut at 30 degrees off square, end are parallel, long point to short point measurement (legs)
  • 4 - 2x4 @ 25" - one end cut at 30 degree BEVEL, long point measurement (top frame secondary supports)
  • 4 - 2x4 @ 43-3/8" - one end cut at 30 degree BEVEL, long point measurement (seat frame secondary supports)

Seat Boards

  • 6 - 2x6 @ 45" - both ends cut at 30 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel, long point to long point measurement (seat boards)
  • 6 - 2x6 @ 38" - both ends cut at 30 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel, long point to long point measurement (seat boards)

Tabletop

  • 2 - 2x6 @ 54" - both ends cut at 30 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel, long point to long point measurement (tabletop)
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 47" - both ends cut at 30 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel, long point to long point measurement (tabletop)
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 40" - both ends cut at 30 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel, long point to long point measurement (tabletop)
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 33-1/4" - both ends cut at 30 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel, long point to long point measurement (tabletop)
Cutting Instructions

Cut the longer boards first to conserve wood

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Miter Saw
Power Sander

Instructions

Step 1

On a flat level surface, carefully layout the first section of the picnic table.  It can help to have two people at this stage.

Attach at all joints with three 2-1/2" self tapping wood screws.

Step 2

First, cut the table supports according to the cut list.  Then, keeping the same overall length, cut the outside end back at a 30 degree angle.  

Attach centered on the main frame with the 2-1/2" screws, two screws per joint.

Step 3

Attach remaining legs with 2-1/2" self tapping wood screws, three screws per joint.

Step 4

Cut the seat frame board ends as directed in the cut list.  Then, keeping the same overall length, cut the outside end back at a 30 degree off square angle.

Attach to the center of the main frame and to the legs.

TIP: Cut a 2x4 13" long and use it as a spacer to hold up your board while attaching to maintain the correct distance.

Step 5

Flip the project over.  

Cut seat boards and lay outside seat boards in place.  Make sure all the angles line up with the seat boards joining in the middle of the frame boards.

Attach with two screws per joint.

Step 6

Attach the tabletop boards on top, starting at the center and working outward, with a 1/2" gap in between.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Help Improve This Plan

We apologize if there was an error in this plan. Please help us out and report any errors here.

Comments

Sarah (not verified)

Mon, 03/14/2011 - 07:13

Love the picnic table.. just had me thinking.. I want to build some benches for our fire pit!! :)

Lynn (not verified)

Mon, 03/14/2011 - 07:48

I am so happy to see this. My only concern is that the new images are hard to read for the measurements. May be different if printed out, but I love the new site!

EmandLesTX

Mon, 03/14/2011 - 08:03

I looove this table... and I'm curious....Is there a special program you use to draw out the plans? I love avery's house and since we have a herd (4 dogs and 3 cats) I have dreamed every night for a week on how to turn it into a five cubbie(crate) bench) with a hinged top for easy access to feed/water and on one end the cat box. (with a hidden flap to keep the dogs OUT but let the dogs in :-)

Ana White

Mon, 03/14/2011 - 11:14

Hi, I use Google Sketchup. It's free, and I actually have a tutorial on the old site that should be moved over very soon. I encourage you to give it a go, it's easy to use, and it's always better to build for your specific needs!

James Reeves (not verified)

Mon, 03/14/2011 - 08:25

Ana, once again you are awesome in your excellent designing.
I have wanted a table like this for years and years but not in my limited budget and feared trying to make it is awesome.
I want to make this table, but also want to make the 8 ft Octagon table please send me detailed plans thanks so much.
Ana, l need to know is it better to use a wood conditioner or a primer and 1 or more coats of conditioner if this is better?

Thanks so much Ana
James, Ontario, Canada

Jason (not verified)

Mon, 03/14/2011 - 10:12

James,
Wood Conditioner and Primer are used for different things and one isn't better than the other.

Wood Conditioner: used when applying stain to raw wood (usually soft wood - pine, spruce, etc, but can also be used on hard woods (oak, etc). The purpose of the wood conditioner is to penetrate the pores of the wood and establish a barrier to limit how deep the stain (which is applied after the wood conditioner (follow instructions on the conditioner can) can penetrate. The problem with soft woods is that the pore structure of the wood varies greatly and applying stain without the conditioner results in what is often a blotchy appearance. The number of coats isn't important as the second coat won't accomplish much - it is more important to follow the instructions on the can for how soon after applying the conditioner should the stain be applied. That is where the 'second coat' may come in to play if you can't get the stain applied quick enough to all surfaces.

Primer: used when applying paint to raw wood (soft or hard does not come into play here). This is often a white colored special paint that also seals the wood, bit also forms a secure bonding surface for the paint top coat (finish colour). There are 2 typical types (latex (water based) and alkyd (oil based) and the benefits and drawbacks of each is better left for a google search if you want more info. They both do basically the same thing.