A loft bed that works with an entire system of plans to get your teen more space and storage in their room. Step by step plans from Ana-White.com
This plan works with our Loft Bed tall bookcase plan and our Loft Bed desk and small bookcase plans.
Special thanks to Anne for sharing her photos from this plan.
This plan is just for the loft bed. You can customize the storage underneath by adding a tall bookcase and a desk system. (plans linked)
This plan uses a built in slat system as shown. You can use any type of 3/4" material - check your mattress recommendations for slat spacing. I usually will burn up scrap wood here.

Preparation
- 15 – 1×3 Boards, 8′ Long
- 3 – 1×8 Boards, 10′ Long (cut one long and one short cut from each)
- 1 – 1×8 48″ Long (cut 1 short cut from this one)
- 3 – 1×4 Boards, 8′ Long
- 1 – 2×2 Board, 8′ Long
- 11 – 1×2 Boards (Less if you have a bunkie board or box spring), 8′ Long
- 1 1/4″ self tapping screws (can also use brad nails and glue)
- 2″ self tapping screws
- Wood Glue
- Finishing Supplies (Wood Filler, Sand Paper, Paint, Brushes, etc)
Cut List for Loft Bed
- 8 – 1×3 @ 71″ (Inner Legs and Outer Legs)
- 4 – 1×8 @ 37 1/2″ (Large Planks, Ends)
- 2 – 1×4 @ 37 1/2″ (Top Planks)
- 3 – 1×8 @ 80″ (Front and Back Rails)
- 1 – 1×4 @ 80″ (Top Back Rail)
- 2 – 1×3 @ 46 1/2″ (Back Filler Piece, Long)
- 6 – 1×3 @ 2″ (Back Filler Piece, Short)
- 2 – 1×3 @ 56″ (Front Filler Pieces, Long)
- 2 – 1×3 @ 7 1/2″ (Front Filler Pieces, Short)
- 1 – 1×2 @ 80″ (Back, Top Piece)
- 2 – 1×3 @ 40 1/2″ (End, Top Pieces)
- 2 – 1×2 @ 75″ (Cleats)
- 1 – 2×2 @ 76 3/4″ (Center Support)
- 14 – 1×2 @ 39″ (Slats)
Cut List for Guard Rail
- 1 – 1×4 @ 61” (Rail)
- 1 – 1×2 @ 61” (Top)
- 3 – 1×4 @ 15” (Uprights)
- 6 – 1×4 @ 2” (Filler Pieces)
Ladder Cut List
- 2 – 1×3 @ 65 3/4″ Overall (Bottom end cut at 15 degrees off square, top at 75 degrees off square)
- 10 – 1×3 @ 10 3/8″ (Spacers, ends cut parallel at 15 degrees off square)
- 5 – 1×3 @ 12 1/2″ (Treads)
- 2 – 1×3 @ 10″ (Top Spacer, cut to match top sides)
Converting to Full Size This bed can easily be converted to full size. You will simply need to add 15″ to all boards that run parallel to the ends. This includes the planks, end top pieces and the slats. Shopping list will need to be adjusted as well.
On a large project such as this one, it is crucial that you build straight and square. To do this begin by working on a clean level surface. Select boards that are straight and free of cracks or other imperfections. Check for square after each step. Predrill and countersink all of your screw holes to avoid splitting the wood and to hide your screw heads. Use glue unless otherwise directed. Of course, you should be safe and have fun! Remember, you can click images for larger views.
Instructions
Step 1
UPDATE: If you have narrow door opening (or are building the bed in a full size) you may need to assemble the bed in the room or not use glue so that the bed can be assembled and disassembled. The boards shown above in pink are not to be glued to the bed, and will be inserted in the slots on assembly. You will then on assembly use screws to fasten the rails to the bed ends.
Step 2
Step 3
Step 4
Back Filler Pieces Measure and cut your filler pieces to fit the back as shown above. You can save yourself quite a bit of time by gluing and clamping these pieces in place. When you fasten the outer leg on, it will secure these pieces with screws. If your nailer is handy, a few 1 1/4″ nails would hold everything in place. You can use glue in this step. The filler pieces will hold your rail boards (the one’s you did not glue down in step 2) in place for now.
Step 6
Outer Legs Pieces First unscrew the rail boards that you loosely screwed in step 2, and remove. Then, using 2″ screws and glue, predrill and countersink your screws as you fasten the outer leg boards to the inner leg boards. If you are staining or leaving natural, I highly recommend using a measured bolt pattern or screwing from the inside of the legs on this step.
Step 7
Step 8
Step 9
Step 10
Step 11
Slats Position your slats with approximately 4″ gap between the slats. TIP: Cut 2 1×2 scraps at 4″ and uses as a spacer between the slats as you are assembling. Screw the slats down with 1 1/4″ screws. For extra support, you can also screw a couple of the center slats from the outsides of the 1×8 rails using 2″ screws.
Step 12
Step 13
Step 14
Ladder So cutting the top of the sides is going to be a little tricky. Think of it this way, you are leaving a 15 degree angle on the top of the board, then trimming off the top 2 1/4″ to remove the sharp pointy end. The best way to do this is FIRST cut your top angle at 75 degrees off square (leaving 15 degees on the board). You will need to use a jigsaw or circular saw. Then snip off the top 2 1/4″ at a right angle (90 degrees) from the back of the top (where the leg rests against the bed. THEN measure down the leg 65 3/4″ and cut your 15 degree angle on the bottom of the leg. Then use the top as a pattern when cutting the top filler pieces. Construct your ladder as shown above, using 1 1/4″ screws when joining the filler pieces to the leg sides, and 2″ screws to join the treads to the leg sides. Don’t forget your glue. See an exploded view below.
Step 16
Assembly The boards shown in pink above are removable and are not glued down. You should be able to slide the boards out of the notches to disassemble the bed and move. Slide the boards back into the notches to assemble and use 2″ screws to screw from the outside of the leg into the rail boards. Also screw the back top to the top as show above. In this method, you should be able to easily assemble and disassemble the bed without destroying the finish.
Comments
Danaelle McIntire (not verified)
Fri, 06/15/2012 - 11:19
Shopping List & Cutting List
Is there an exact shopping and cutting list for building a Full loft bed? I read the comments about adding lenght, but I have never tackeled anything like this and want to make sure I do it right the first time. Im great at following directs, but have a hard time without it spelled out for me. Help. Thanks - danaelle
Chrisie (not verified)
Fri, 06/15/2012 - 11:21
Price & Savings
My daughter and I live in a small mobile home and I really need to up the space for her and I was looking at your plans for the loft bed. How much money would it cost to do this project? Compared to buying a bed like this, how much would you save?
Danaelle McIntire (not verified)
Fri, 06/15/2012 - 11:23
The actual pottery barn study
The actual pottery barn study loft will run you $1800.00 I have not bought the supplies yet, but i can guarentee they wont be more than a few hundred dollars.
claydowling
Fri, 06/15/2012 - 16:21
Savings Calculation
There's no good way for somebody else to figure out how much you'll save. We don't know what lumber costs are in your area, and we don't know what tools you have available to you, or what tool selections you'll make.
You can take the cut list and the tool list from Getting Started to a lumber yard (avoid the home center), get their pricing on materials, and figure it out for yourself. You may also need to build some tools, such as a circular saw cutting guide.
Elgin Combs (not verified)
Thu, 06/21/2012 - 11:32
Great bed!
I just completed this project for my daughter, who is 5 and 1/2. She is going to love it! Plans were great, and everything worked out how it was supposed to. Btw, I am NOT a carpenter, and had never done stuff like this before. Thanks!!!
-Elgin
chris stogran (not verified)
Tue, 07/10/2012 - 17:48
I am also planning on making
I am also planning on making this bed for my 5 year old but i am wondering if it is sturdy. I would like to make sure it can hold her and I with out feeling shaky are the legs strong enough?
Cooper (not verified)
Mon, 07/09/2012 - 13:03
Loft Plans for an XL Twin Mattress
Can anyone supply modified plans that would accommodate an XL twin mattress?
chrissto (not verified)
Tue, 07/10/2012 - 14:30
Can anyone that has actually
Can anyone that has actually built it comment on how sturdy this is. We are concerned that it may be wobbly if multiple kids are on it. should i beef up the legs? has anyone put more than 250# up top with no issues; i want to make sure i can still climb up there and read to my daughter.
chris stogran (not verified)
Tue, 07/10/2012 - 14:37
Can anyone that has actually
Can anyone that has actually built it comment on how sturdy this is. We are concerned that it may be wobbly if multiple kids are on it. should i beef up the legs? has anyone put more than 250# up top with no issues; i want to make sure i can still climb up there and read to my daughter.
Hillary (not verified)
Tue, 07/10/2012 - 15:17
strong legs
I built the modified (smaller) version and both my girls were up top with my husband when we first built it. We've had no problems with stability and I can't envision problems with the full sized version. The legs end up being 2 1/4x 2 1/2 -- they're pretty strong.