A loft bed that works with an entire system of plans to get your teen more space and storage in their room. Step by step plans from Ana-White.com
This plan works with our Loft Bed tall bookcase plan and our Loft Bed desk and small bookcase plans.
Special thanks to Anne for sharing her photos from this plan.
This plan is just for the loft bed. You can customize the storage underneath by adding a tall bookcase and a desk system. (plans linked)
This plan uses a built in slat system as shown. You can use any type of 3/4" material - check your mattress recommendations for slat spacing. I usually will burn up scrap wood here.

Preparation
- 15 – 1×3 Boards, 8′ Long
- 3 – 1×8 Boards, 10′ Long (cut one long and one short cut from each)
- 1 – 1×8 48″ Long (cut 1 short cut from this one)
- 3 – 1×4 Boards, 8′ Long
- 1 – 2×2 Board, 8′ Long
- 11 – 1×2 Boards (Less if you have a bunkie board or box spring), 8′ Long
- 1 1/4″ self tapping screws (can also use brad nails and glue)
- 2″ self tapping screws
- Wood Glue
- Finishing Supplies (Wood Filler, Sand Paper, Paint, Brushes, etc)
Cut List for Loft Bed
- 8 – 1×3 @ 71″ (Inner Legs and Outer Legs)
- 4 – 1×8 @ 37 1/2″ (Large Planks, Ends)
- 2 – 1×4 @ 37 1/2″ (Top Planks)
- 3 – 1×8 @ 80″ (Front and Back Rails)
- 1 – 1×4 @ 80″ (Top Back Rail)
- 2 – 1×3 @ 46 1/2″ (Back Filler Piece, Long)
- 6 – 1×3 @ 2″ (Back Filler Piece, Short)
- 2 – 1×3 @ 56″ (Front Filler Pieces, Long)
- 2 – 1×3 @ 7 1/2″ (Front Filler Pieces, Short)
- 1 – 1×2 @ 80″ (Back, Top Piece)
- 2 – 1×3 @ 40 1/2″ (End, Top Pieces)
- 2 – 1×2 @ 75″ (Cleats)
- 1 – 2×2 @ 76 3/4″ (Center Support)
- 14 – 1×2 @ 39″ (Slats)
Cut List for Guard Rail
- 1 – 1×4 @ 61” (Rail)
- 1 – 1×2 @ 61” (Top)
- 3 – 1×4 @ 15” (Uprights)
- 6 – 1×4 @ 2” (Filler Pieces)
Ladder Cut List
- 2 – 1×3 @ 65 3/4″ Overall (Bottom end cut at 15 degrees off square, top at 75 degrees off square)
- 10 – 1×3 @ 10 3/8″ (Spacers, ends cut parallel at 15 degrees off square)
- 5 – 1×3 @ 12 1/2″ (Treads)
- 2 – 1×3 @ 10″ (Top Spacer, cut to match top sides)
Converting to Full Size This bed can easily be converted to full size. You will simply need to add 15″ to all boards that run parallel to the ends. This includes the planks, end top pieces and the slats. Shopping list will need to be adjusted as well.
On a large project such as this one, it is crucial that you build straight and square. To do this begin by working on a clean level surface. Select boards that are straight and free of cracks or other imperfections. Check for square after each step. Predrill and countersink all of your screw holes to avoid splitting the wood and to hide your screw heads. Use glue unless otherwise directed. Of course, you should be safe and have fun! Remember, you can click images for larger views.
Instructions
Step 1
UPDATE: If you have narrow door opening (or are building the bed in a full size) you may need to assemble the bed in the room or not use glue so that the bed can be assembled and disassembled. The boards shown above in pink are not to be glued to the bed, and will be inserted in the slots on assembly. You will then on assembly use screws to fasten the rails to the bed ends.
Step 2
Step 3
Step 4
Back Filler Pieces Measure and cut your filler pieces to fit the back as shown above. You can save yourself quite a bit of time by gluing and clamping these pieces in place. When you fasten the outer leg on, it will secure these pieces with screws. If your nailer is handy, a few 1 1/4″ nails would hold everything in place. You can use glue in this step. The filler pieces will hold your rail boards (the one’s you did not glue down in step 2) in place for now.
Step 6
Outer Legs Pieces First unscrew the rail boards that you loosely screwed in step 2, and remove. Then, using 2″ screws and glue, predrill and countersink your screws as you fasten the outer leg boards to the inner leg boards. If you are staining or leaving natural, I highly recommend using a measured bolt pattern or screwing from the inside of the legs on this step.
Step 7
Step 8
Step 9
Step 10
Step 11
Slats Position your slats with approximately 4″ gap between the slats. TIP: Cut 2 1×2 scraps at 4″ and uses as a spacer between the slats as you are assembling. Screw the slats down with 1 1/4″ screws. For extra support, you can also screw a couple of the center slats from the outsides of the 1×8 rails using 2″ screws.
Step 12
Step 13
Step 14
Ladder So cutting the top of the sides is going to be a little tricky. Think of it this way, you are leaving a 15 degree angle on the top of the board, then trimming off the top 2 1/4″ to remove the sharp pointy end. The best way to do this is FIRST cut your top angle at 75 degrees off square (leaving 15 degees on the board). You will need to use a jigsaw or circular saw. Then snip off the top 2 1/4″ at a right angle (90 degrees) from the back of the top (where the leg rests against the bed. THEN measure down the leg 65 3/4″ and cut your 15 degree angle on the bottom of the leg. Then use the top as a pattern when cutting the top filler pieces. Construct your ladder as shown above, using 1 1/4″ screws when joining the filler pieces to the leg sides, and 2″ screws to join the treads to the leg sides. Don’t forget your glue. See an exploded view below.
Step 16
Assembly The boards shown in pink above are removable and are not glued down. You should be able to slide the boards out of the notches to disassemble the bed and move. Slide the boards back into the notches to assemble and use 2″ screws to screw from the outside of the leg into the rail boards. Also screw the back top to the top as show above. In this method, you should be able to easily assemble and disassemble the bed without destroying the finish.
Comments
Maija (not verified)
Tue, 03/29/2011 - 14:24
Yay!
I'm so glad I saw this! You know...shipping to Northern AK is super expensive, so I'm happy to find this!
My daughter needs a loft bed because she has the smallest room and needs room for her piano and desk!
I spent exactly $48 on my wedding dress, made my girls dresses, made the men's Kuspuks, went to Burlington for their shirts, pants and ties and we all wore mukluks. My homemade wedding cake was leaning just a bit, but that's OK.
Guest (not verified)
Mon, 04/04/2011 - 10:24
Loft bed - full sized
Do you have the plans for this but for a full sized bed instead of twin?
Guest (not verified)
Mon, 04/04/2011 - 14:42
weight limit
Hi, I'm a college student and am considering making a loft bed using these plans. What I need to know though is how much weight can it safely hold. I weigh 130 but i imagine my 160lb roommate will at some point end up sitting up there with me. Can this bed support nearly 300lbs?
Gem
Thu, 04/07/2011 - 06:41
Wow, maybe won't have to adapt cabin bunk plan!
I had seen the cabin bunk bed plans, and was thinking of adapting them to do a loft instead, but these seem much simpler! Thanks!
Guest (not verified)
Thu, 06/02/2011 - 14:40
Can you make a loft bed in
Can you make a loft bed in Queen size? (With out it falling apart)I gave my daughter a queen size bed and promised my husband I won't change her mattress until she moves out. Then now her birthday is coming up and she wants a loft bed more then anything. Help!
Guest (not verified)
Tue, 06/07/2011 - 12:44
Would it work to use the ends as a ladder if..
If I were to add more of the 37 1/2 in boards to the ends would they hold up to use as a ladder? Would it make the bed tippy at all when being climbed on? I would then make both side rails go from end to end instead of the space for the ladder. In my mind it would give the bed more support too but I have never built anything like this bed. My husband is doubting my ability but I want to prove him wrong! The ladder seems beyond my capability though. Thanks!
Guest (not verified)
Thu, 06/09/2011 - 18:16
What type of wood do you use?
It might sound stupid but what type of wood do you use?
Thanks
In reply to What type of wood do you use? by Guest (not verified)
claydowling
Thu, 06/09/2011 - 20:48
Dimensional lumber
Most people make this just using the regular dimensional lumber you can pick up at the home center or lumber yard. It's likely to be pine, but could be generic white wood, which is probably spruce or hemlock (which is actually red and smells bad).
Guest (not verified)
Wed, 06/15/2011 - 12:48
Just wondering if you could
Just wondering if you could update the shopping list for the full-size bed? It says to add 15 inches, but I'm not sure which ones from the shopping list that would be. Thanks!
Schaeferjrcs (not verified)
Fri, 07/08/2011 - 12:07
Twin Bed Loft
Anna,
Thanks for your site and assistance here. One question before my husband and I move forward with this. Our youngest son will be using this loft in his small room to create more space. He is almost fourteen years old. He is 6' tall and still growing and is over 240 lbs. The pediatrician says he will wind up around 6"4" and about this weight. I can figure out how to make the bed long enough and get a longer twin set up. My / our question is this, do you believe this loft will be sturdy enough to support our son? He's a big guy and I'd hate to see the desk under it and lap top and books get ruined.... oh or him get hurt. We also don't have the funds to spend money buying one so this option would be great if it will work. Thanks and God bless.