Free plans to DIY a farmhouse table with store bought table legs. Plans from Ana-White.com
Hello DIY Friends!
I hope you had a wonderful weekend! Can you believe it is still snowing up here in Alaska? I can't either, and I tell you what, I am ready to be working outdoors on projects. If you get a second, point your fans north and blow some of your hot weather toward us, will you?
We have been busy getting the odds and ends complete on the downstairs of the Momplex (I'll be posting an update for you later this week) and then finishing up the drywall downstairs. I've been told to order flooring, doors and moulding - how crazy is that? I know we aren't getting Mom moved in by this weekend (sorry Mom!), but we are feeling so great about how things are moving along (haha I'm not trying to be punny!).
You know we've been working double time now, right? That's right, we took on another job. Darn little nieces are just too cute!
Well, of course, I'm going to be building (or helping build - my sister wants to build her own furniture too!) furniture for my nieces as well. And I've already been working on projects in my spare time.
I was just thinking about something as I was putting together these photos. I often get magazines asking for "amazing before and after photos" to showcase my work, and I kinda give them a funny look and say, "but my before photos are a pile of 2x4s."
When we build furniture, it's not always about dramatic room transformations. It's not always about magazine-worthy after photos.
It's about this:
Our befores-and-afters are about making our lives better. Having a place to eat dinner. Getting mattresses off floors, corralling toys into toyboxes, books into shelves ....
But I won't tell you a lie ... making something pretty doesn't hurt either :)
My sister and I put this table together surprisingly quick - in just a few hours. She wanted a "planked top" look made of 2x6s, so that took a little longer to get the top really flat and level (no rocking plates on this tabletop!). We love you belt sander. You could be smarter than us and use tongue and groove for the top. But I promise you, you won't get an arm workout like we did.
I gave the legs an authentic old world finish and will be sharing that tutorial with you next week - it's actually a pretty easy finish to achieve!
And of course, we got you covered with the free Farmhouse Table plans following!
Also giving a shout-out to the folks at Osborne Wood for providing the legs for this table. The legs are just massive, and retail for about $50 a leg for the legs shown. You will be shocked at how giant these legs are! Thank you Osborne Wood!
Preparation
4 - Osborne Wood Husky Dining Table Legs
2 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long
2 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
7 - 2x6 @ 72" long (you may consider using 2x6 tongue and groove for a easier finishing option but as shown in photos, I used 2x6s kreg jigged together and then sanded flat on top with a belt sander)
2 1/2" pocket hole screws
2" finish nails
wood glue
2 - 2x4 @ 58" (side aprons)
2 - 2x4 @ 26" (end aprons)
2 - 1x2 @ 26" (end apron trim)
2 - 1x2 @ 58" (side apron trim)
7 - 2x6 @ 72" (tabletop boards)
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
Instructions
Step 1
First things first, drill all the pocket holes in the aprons. You'll need two per apron end, and then ever 8" or so, a 1 1/2" pocket hole facing upward for attaching the tabletop later on.
When you go to attach the legs to the aprons, make sure you have the pocket holes pointing upward - I make this mistake all the time - doh! - but you are probably way smarter than me!
Step 2
This is really just to add that decorative touch to the underside.
Another option for those of you with a table saw is to use 2x6s for the aprons and then cut a small groove with the tablesaw at the base of the aprons to give the look of multiple boards.
NOTE: You can also add corner cross supports, but we found the table really didn't need it. It's up to you!
Step 3
Now build the top. If I can say anything about this top it's this: GET STRAIGHT BOARDS. Mine were a little crooked and so I ended up having to use long bar clamps to pull everything together tight as I attached pocket holes.
Clamp, clamp and clamp!
If your ends end up a little off, no bigge there, just run a circular saw down the ends to clean them up.
I think part of this table's charm is the planked top, but to make it more functional, we belt sanded the top flat, and then silicone any gaps to prevent food from sticking in cracks.
Not trying to scare you - this wasn't hard - it's just my sister's got kids between 6 months and 9, and we are preparing this table for real life use and abuse.
Step 4
Now flip the tabletop over so all the pocket holes are facing up and place the base on it. Then just start attaching through those predrilled pocket holes into the tabletop.
Flip it over (it's gonna be heavy!) and the building part is done!
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Comments
dragonkatt
Wed, 05/08/2013 - 08:13
Love those chairs
Love this table! Those chairs are exactly what Ive been looking for. Did she make them or buy them?
skseibel
Mon, 05/20/2013 - 11:39
type of wood for top
Love your site and all the different projects. My Honey-do list just multiplied!
I was just curious what type of wood you used for the top of this table? I really like the 'beefier' look of the 2inch but can't find any good 2inch lumber at any of my local stores. Everything they have poplar, oak, pine, etc is 1inch. The only thing I can find anywhere that is 2 inch is the framing douglas fir.
the only other thing I can think of is to use the 1 inch and trim it with 2 inch but still not going to be as bulky/strong.
thanks!
P.S. I also loved the silicone tip!!!!
jacsatduke
Sat, 06/01/2013 - 19:55
chairs
Love, Love, Love this table! Just wondering where you got your chairs from? And then did you just stain them the same as the table top? Thanks!
jacsatduke
Sat, 06/01/2013 - 19:55
chairs
Love, Love, Love this table! Just wondering where you got your chairs from? And then did you just stain them the same as the table top? Thanks!
MinionMaster4
Mon, 07/22/2013 - 15:22
Help!
I made this table and Kreg jigged the planks together for the table top. I got boards that were as straight as possible (I thought). Now one corner of the top is pulling up so much that the leg is about 2 inches off the ground! Could I run a plank crossways underneath and countersink screws along it to pull it down so it's level? Other ideas??
Jennabot
Sun, 05/24/2015 - 16:15
I'm having this same problem.
I'm having this same problem. How did you solve this issue?
Thanks,
Jenna
Gladysbaby
Thu, 09/12/2013 - 05:42
Wish I had known!
I bought a table at a junk shop 13 years ago exactly like yours except the top was a mess, the legs were loose, and it was 10 feet long. I thought it might have been used as a display table in a department store since the junk shop had lots of items from store displays. I hired a guy to fix the legs and he took FOREVER and he really messed up my top. I used it for 12 years in my dining room and then had my son sand it down completely. I used Sickens sealer and it now is used on my covered porch.
miss_kristi_lynn
Wed, 10/09/2013 - 17:33
This is AMAZING!!
This is next up on my to do list. I am in love!
cryjr1
Sat, 10/19/2013 - 06:31
wood type
Love the table!! Like others, I was wondering the wood typed used for the table. Also, how did your sisters table hold up with her kids? THANKS!
Tinyscrafts
Wed, 11/27/2013 - 08:59
Silicone didn't work with polycrylic!
I followed the instructions and siliconed the cracks. I'm so sad, it looked great before. Then I put polycrylic over it. It didn't stick to it right and the crappy GE silicone (check reviews) didn't dry. It also wasn't clear like it said it would be. What a mess! I'm now picking/smooshing/ rolling it out and re sanding. OMG! Was I supposed to silicone after the poly??
Don't use GE silicone!!