2 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long
2 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
7 - 2x6 @ 72" long (you may consider using 2x6 tongue and groove for a easier finishing option but as shown in photos, I used 2x6s kreg jigged together and then sanded flat on top with a belt sander)
2 1/2" pocket hole screws
2" finish nails
2 - 2x4 @ 58" (side aprons)
2 - 2x4 @ 26" (end aprons)
2 - 1x2 @ 26" (end apron trim)
2 - 1x2 @ 58" (side apron trim)
7 - 2x6 @ 72" (tabletop boards)
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
First things first, drill all the pocket holes in the aprons. You'll need two per apron end, and then ever 8" or so, a 1 1/2" pocket hole facing upward for attaching the tabletop later on.
When you go to attach the legs to the aprons, make sure you have the pocket holes pointing upward - I make this mistake all the time - doh! - but you are probably way smarter than me!
This is really just to add that decorative touch to the underside.
Another option for those of you with a table saw is to use 2x6s for the aprons and then cut a small groove with the tablesaw at the base of the aprons to give the look of multiple boards.
NOTE: You can also add corner cross supports, but we found the table really didn't need it. It's up to you!
Now build the top. If I can say anything about this top it's this: GET STRAIGHT BOARDS. Mine were a little crooked and so I ended up having to use long bar clamps to pull everything together tight as I attached pocket holes.
Clamp, clamp and clamp!
If your ends end up a little off, no bigge there, just run a circular saw down the ends to clean them up.
I think part of this table's charm is the planked top, but to make it more functional, we belt sanded the top flat, and then silicone any gaps to prevent food from sticking in cracks.
Not trying to scare you - this wasn't hard - it's just my sister's got kids between 6 months and 9, and we are preparing this table for real life use and abuse.
Now flip the tabletop over so all the pocket holes are facing up and place the base on it. Then just start attaching through those predrilled pocket holes into the tabletop.
Flip it over (it's gonna be heavy!) and the building part is done!
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.