Industrial Adjustable Height Bolt Bar Stool

Industrial Adjustable Height Bolt Bar Stool
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DIY industrial style adjustable height bar stools - plans by Ana-White.com

Industrial Adjustable Height Bolt Bar Stool
Industrial Adjustable Height Bolt Bar Stool
Industrial Adjustable Height Bolt Bar Stool
Industrial Adjustable Height Bolt Bar Stool
Industrial Adjustable Height Bolt Bar Stool

Hi everyone!!!

Last summer, Toliy (our favorite design college student) worked with me to create this super cool little adjustable height stool -

We were pretty bummed when Toliy had to head back to college in the fall, never getting enough time to make matching bar stools.

So when Toliy texted this Christmas break, saying he was back home for a few days and wanted to work on those stools, I said, uh, I'll take three!!!

We ended up adding the bottom side pieces to act as a foot rest -

I love how they turned out!

We used scrap wood (including 3/4" construction grade plywood) and 2x2s ripped from 2x4 scraps (you can use off the shelf 2x2s) to make these stools.

We stained the stools using Rustoleum Dark Walnut -

Really love the color!

One thing that complicated this build was we knew these stools would get a ton of use, and since they are significantly higher than the original stools, didn't want to just use a floor flange.  So we welded 3/4" nuts to 1/8" thick metal plates.  If you don't have a welder, call your welding shop and drop a few nuts off and have them weld to scrap metal plates - it will probably be cheaper than buying flanges anyways (those can get expensive).

We love these stools and how they turned out, but they are not a beginner project. Please don't attempt as a first project.

Plans follow - enjoy!

XO Ana + Crew

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Industrial Adjustable Height Bolt Bar Stool

Dimensions
Industrial Adjustable Height Bolt Bar Stool
Dimensions shown above

Preparation

Shopping List

2 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long 3/4" plywood scraps for the top plate

12" round or 2x12 for the seat

18" - 5/8" all thread

5/8" flange or top plate (we diyed ours with scrap metal and nuts welded together)

4 - 5/8" nuts and washers

Common Materials
Cut List

2 - 2x2 @ 12-1/2" - both ends are cut at 10 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel, longest point to longest point measurement 1 - 3/4" plywood @ 8-1/2" x 8-1/2" 4 - 2x2 @ 23-1/2" - both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, long point to short point measurement, ends ARE parallel 4 - 2x2 @ 9-5/8" - both ends cut at 45 degrees, ends NOT parallel, longest point to longest point measurement 1 - 12" round (we cut ours from 1x12s and 3/4" plywood scraps glued together to get the 1-1/2" thickness - these are also available off the shelf

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Miter Saw
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Cut the 3/4" plywood to an 8-1/2" x 8-1/2" square, then cut corners off at 45 degrees.

Step 2

Set a circular saw blade to 3/4" depth and notch out the 2x2 cross supports as shown above, cutting the long side on one and the short side on the other. Glue (don't screw or nail) the two pieces together.

Step 3

Build the stool using either 1-1/2" pocket holes and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws or countersinking wood screws (2-1/2" long would work).

Step 4

Attach the outer foot rest with 2-1/2" screws countersunk from outside. You'll only need one screw per joint. Use glue.

Step 5

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

adm317

Thu, 02/25/2016 - 08:17

Did you cut your 2x4's down to 1.5x1.5 or 1.5x2? I just built these and used 2x2's and after staining realized the wood does not match the top which i cut from a 2x12. hoping extra coats of stain on legs will darken them. Also, did you use any lock washers? how does adjustment of height work without loosening all the nuts?

rickmc

Wed, 03/30/2016 - 07:23

It seems some of the photos (the most important ones) are only partially viewable in both the PDF and on the site. The last photo that shows the flange connection. Can you please double check those and see if they can be replaced with fully viewable photos?

odile

Mon, 08/29/2016 - 08:30

Hi Ana and Tolly,
I have a 9' soapstone slab bar height counter that is 48" in height. Would these stool seats be able to reach 38" or 40" in height? Would there be any building accommodations that would need to be made?
Thank you for your time.
Odile Kerester

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!