Industrial Adjustable Height Bolt Bar Stool

Industrial Adjustable Height Bolt Bar Stool
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DIY industrial style adjustable height bar stools - plans by

Industrial Adjustable Height Bolt Bar Stool
Industrial Adjustable Height Bolt Bar Stool
Industrial Adjustable Height Bolt Bar Stool
Industrial Adjustable Height Bolt Bar Stool
Industrial Adjustable Height Bolt Bar Stool

Hi everyone!!!

Last summer, Toliy (our favorite design college student) worked with me to create this super cool little adjustable height stool -

We were pretty bummed when Toliy had to head back to college in the fall, never getting enough time to make matching bar stools.

So when Toliy texted this Christmas break, saying he was back home for a few days and wanted to work on those stools, I said, uh, I'll take three!!!

We ended up adding the bottom side pieces to act as a foot rest -

I love how they turned out!

We used scrap wood (including 3/4" construction grade plywood) and 2x2s ripped from 2x4 scraps (you can use off the shelf 2x2s) to make these stools.

We stained the stools using Rustoleum Dark Walnut -

Really love the color!

One thing that complicated this build was we knew these stools would get a ton of use, and since they are significantly higher than the original stools, didn't want to just use a floor flange.  So we welded 3/4" nuts to 1/8" thick metal plates.  If you don't have a welder, call your welding shop and drop a few nuts off and have them weld to scrap metal plates - it will probably be cheaper than buying flanges anyways (those can get expensive).

We love these stools and how they turned out, but they are not a beginner project. Please don't attempt as a first project.

Plans follow - enjoy!

XO Ana + Crew

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Industrial Adjustable Height Bolt Bar Stool

Industrial Adjustable Height Bolt Bar Stool
Dimensions shown above


Shopping List

2 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long 3/4" plywood scraps for the top plate

12" round or 2x12 for the seat

18" - 5/8" all thread

5/8" flange or top plate (we diyed ours with scrap metal and nuts welded together)

4 - 5/8" nuts and washers

Common Materials
Cut List

2 - 2x2 @ 12-1/2" - both ends are cut at 10 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel, longest point to longest point measurement 1 - 3/4" plywood @ 8-1/2" x 8-1/2" 4 - 2x2 @ 23-1/2" - both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, long point to short point measurement, ends ARE parallel 4 - 2x2 @ 9-5/8" - both ends cut at 45 degrees, ends NOT parallel, longest point to longest point measurement 1 - 12" round (we cut ours from 1x12s and 3/4" plywood scraps glued together to get the 1-1/2" thickness - these are also available off the shelf

Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Circular Saw
Miter Saw
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!


Step 1

Cut the 3/4" plywood to an 8-1/2" x 8-1/2" square, then cut corners off at 45 degrees.

Step 2

Set a circular saw blade to 3/4" depth and notch out the 2x2 cross supports as shown above, cutting the long side on one and the short side on the other. Glue (don't screw or nail) the two pieces together.

Step 3

Build the stool using either 1-1/2" pocket holes and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws or countersinking wood screws (2-1/2" long would work).

Step 4

Attach the outer foot rest with 2-1/2" screws countersunk from outside. You'll only need one screw per joint. Use glue.

Step 5

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.



Thu, 02/25/2016 - 08:17

Did you cut your 2x4's down to 1.5x1.5 or 1.5x2? I just built these and used 2x2's and after staining realized the wood does not match the top which i cut from a 2x12. hoping extra coats of stain on legs will darken them. Also, did you use any lock washers? how does adjustment of height work without loosening all the nuts?


Wed, 03/30/2016 - 07:23

It seems some of the photos (the most important ones) are only partially viewable in both the PDF and on the site. The last photo that shows the flange connection. Can you please double check those and see if they can be replaced with fully viewable photos?


Mon, 08/29/2016 - 08:30

Hi Ana and Tolly,
I have a 9' soapstone slab bar height counter that is 48" in height. Would these stool seats be able to reach 38" or 40" in height? Would there be any building accommodations that would need to be made?
Thank you for your time.
Odile Kerester