Laundry Basket Dresser

Submitted by Ana White on Mon, 11/15/2010 - 22:12
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The Laundry Basket Dresser has taken my laundry room from the messiest room in my home to the tidiest. It's so easy to pull laundry out and put it directly into baskets. I then can take each basket to it's respective room and fold and put laundry away. For any busy home, these are a must.

dresser for laundry baskets

laundry-basket-dresser-2 This really wasn't my idea.  I have some smart sisters.  They looked at the piles of laundry in my tiny laundry room, and said, Ana, what if . . .

All your laundry baskets could be like drawers in a dresser . . .

And we didn't have to see your dirty - and clean - laundry every time we visit.

In my defense, most of the piles of laundry in my home are clean.  They just rarely make it to the dresser.

But this is one dresser that I can work with.

I can deal with stacks of laundry with this system!  Do you have a laundry problem?

That's your sticker.  For each of these laundry basket dressers, you will need three of these baskets.  Way up here in Alaska, each basket was $3.50.  Should be less for you.

PS - If you are interested in a slightly different size/configuration, check out these plans as well!

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Laundry Basket Dresser

laundry dresser plans
Dimensions are shown above.


Shopping List

3/4″ Plywood cut into 15 1/2″ wide x 8 feet long strips (referred to as 1x16s) 1/4″ Plywood for the backs 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ metal angle (ask for it at Blue or Orange) 2″ wood screws or 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws 3/4″ wood screws (to screw the metal angle to the insides of the boxes) 1 1/4″ wood screws wood glue wood filler finishing supplies

Cut List

2 – 1×16 @ 35 1/4″ (Sides) 1 – 1×16 @ 24 1/2″ (Bottom) 1 – 1×16 @ 26″ (Top) 1 – 1/4″ Plywood @ 36″ x 25 3/4″ (Back) 6 – 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ Metal Angle 15 1/2″ long (ask hardware store to cut or cut with a hack saw)

Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Circular Saw
Power Sander
Drill Bit Set


Step 1

Build the Box

I used pocket holes, but you can also use 2″ wood screws countersunk and screwed together to build the box.

NOTE: Top Measurement should be 26″

Step 2


Adjust for square then screw the back on with 1 1/4″ screws and glue. I finished mine at this stage by filling all holes with wood filler, all plywood edges, and any imperfections in the plywood. I then sanded with coarse sandpaper because the plywood was builder grade cheapo stuff, the finished with medium sandpaper. Finally, I primed and painted with ooops paint in semigloss from Valspar.

Step 3

Metal Angle

If you are intimidated by metal angle, you can always use 2x2s glued and screwed here. Cut the metal angle with a hack saw and predrill holes (three per slide). Mark locations with a square and screw metal angle to the sides. TIP: Screw at a very slight downward angle to keep the baskets to the back of the box instead of sliding forward.

If you choose to stack, make sure you secure the top laundry basket dress to a stud in the wall.


Patrick Anglim (not verified)

Sat, 05/19/2012 - 17:22

The bottom piece is not supposed to be 24 1/2". It should be 23 3/4". I should have noticed this but too late now. So if you build it with the measurements shown above your unit with be out of square by 3/4". Simple math. The top piece @ 25 1/4" works good for the baskets. I wouldn't add length to it - take 3/4" off the bottom.

Nick G (not verified)

Thu, 05/31/2012 - 13:20

On the laundry design, I have never seen anything with more mistakes. Look at Step 1 and step 3. You have the top piece on the outside in Step 1, but on the inside in step 3. Also, you have the length of the top piece wrong in step 1, but only correct it in a footnote. Is the width 15 1/2 inches as specified in the material list or 16" as in the cut list? The metal angle iron is very expensive (~$5 per foot) and impossible to cut at home. Aluminum is more expensive but easier to cut. And what to coat the steel or aluminum with (they both rust). Wow!!!

Brandi C. (not verified)

Thu, 05/31/2012 - 16:03

The laundry basket dresser is a very popular plan, just look at all of the brag post/pics!
With as many free plans as Ana puts on her website, there are bound to be errors that she corrects as soon as she becomes aware of the situation.
As with most lumber, its not exactly true to size, ie; a 1x4 is often 1x3.5 and in this case the 1x16 is actually a 1x15.5.
The metal angle iron is expensive and hard to cut which is why we are given the 2x2 as another option. Much easier to cut, much, much cheaper and no rust:)
I am sure that with as many plans that she has on here you may find one or two (or a hundred) that better suit your needs. Happy Building:)

nitrorccars123 (not verified)

Mon, 06/25/2012 - 08:04

There are a lot of blogs and articles out there on this topic, but you have captured another side of the subject. This is good content thank you for sharing it.
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Fri, 07/27/2012 - 07:43

Does the bottom basket touch the bottom of the box? If not how much of a gap is there? I would like to make one but I would like it to be part of a folding table. Just seeing if I might be able to cut off 1/2 to an 1in at the bottom?

Thanks so much!

Christine Ramey (not verified)

Mon, 07/30/2012 - 20:45

I love this idea. It wouldn't cost to much to make or pick up used ones at a garage sale as well. Sometimes some of these odds and ends pieces of old dressers would work as well. I love it. :)

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