Madeline Changing Table

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Featuring three drawers, one cupboard and a large changing area, this changing table will meet the needs of your new baby, while still looking beautiful. Works with the rest of the Madeline Changing Wall. Special thanks to our readers for sharing their photos.

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I don’t normally post plans on Saturday, but so many of you have been asking, I wanted to get these plans up so you can work on them this weekend.

So I’ve been teasing you with this system for months, giving you everything BUT the base unit, and I promise, it wasn’t on purpose. It’s just that the base unit has a lot of doors and drawers, which makes for a much longer plan. The rest of the collection can be found here, and I suggest you review the entire collection before building anything.

So without much more talk, let’s just get right to the plan.

Dimensions
Overall dimensions are shown above

Preparation

Shopping List

2 Sheet of 3/4″ MDF or 3/4″ A1 Plywood, cut into 1×16 boards 

1 Sheet of 1/4″ MDF or Plywood or Lauan for the Back (you can use scraps for the door rails and stiles) 
1/2 Sheet of 1/2″ Plywood for the Door and Large Drawer Faces 
1 – 1×6 Board, 10′ Long (for the Small Drawers) 
1 – 1×10 Board, 10′ Long (for the Large Drawers) 
1 – 1×2 Board
3 1/4″ Floor trim or base moulding 
 3/4″ Edge Trim (3/4″ wide) 
 2″ Screws 
1 1/4″ Nails and Screws 
5/8″ Nails 
Wood Glue 
Wood Filler 
Sand Paper 
Finishing Supplies 
2 Sets of Undermount Drawer Slides, 14″ long (for large drawers) 
1 Set of Hinges
Knobs
Shelf Pins (for adjustable shelves)
Common Materials
paint
paint brush
Cut List

Cutting List for Box 

2 – 1×16 @ 33 1/4″ (Sides) 
1 – 1×16 @ 30″ (Vertical Divider) 
2 – 1×16 @ 22 3/4″ (Horizontal Dividers) 
1 – 1×16 @ 38 1/2″ (Bottom) 
1 – 1×16 @ 40″ (Top) 
1 – 1/4″ Plywood or MDF @ 40″ x 34″ (Back) 
 Cutting List for Trim on Box 
1 – 1×2 @ 22 3/4″ (Top Inside Trim) 
1 – 1×2 @ 38 1/2″ (Bottom Inside Trim) 
1 – 1×2 @ 5 3/4″ (Front Drawer Divider Trim) 
1 – 1×2 @ 14″ (Drawer Guide) 
1 – 3 1/4″ Base Moulding @ 40″ (Base Moulding, cut out) 
1 – 3/4″ Edge Trim @ 40″ (Front Edge Trim) 
 Cut List for 2 Small Drawers 
 2 – 1×16 @ 9 1/4″, then trimmed down to a finish size of 14″ x 9 1/4″ (Drawer Bottoms) 
2 – 1×6 @ 9 1/4″ (Drawer Backs) 
4 – 1×6 @ 14 3/4″ (Drawer Sides) 
2 – 1×6 @ 10 3/4″ (Drawer Faces) 
 Cut List for Large Drawers 
 2 – 1/2″ Plywood @ 22 1/2″ x 10 3/4″ (Drawer Face Backs) 
4 – 1/4″ Plywood @ 22 1/2″ (Drawer Rails) 
4 – 1/4″ Plywood @ 7 3/4″ (Drawer Stiles) 
2 – 1×16 @ 21″ cut down to a finished size of 21″ x 14″ (Drawer Bottoms) 
4 – 1×10 @ 14 3/4″ (Drawer Sides) 
2 – 1×10 @ 21″ (Drawer Backs) 
 Cut List for Large Door Face 
 1 – 1/2″ Plywood @ 29 3/4″ x 14 3/4″ (Door Backs) 
2 – 1/4″ Plywood cut into strips 1 1/2″ @ 14 3/4″ (Door Rails) 
2 – 1/4″ Plywood cut into strips 1 1/2″ @ 26 3/4″ (Door Stiles)

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Hammer
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Jigsaw
Power Sander
General Instructions

Work on a clean level surface. Use necessary safety equipment and precautions. Always check for square after each step. If you are working with MDF, use drywall screws and predrill the entire distance of you screw shaft to avoid splitting the MDF. Always predrill and countersink your screws. Mark joints on both sides of the joint so you know where the joint is and where to fasten the joint. Keep outside edges flush. Do not forget the glue
THIS IS AN ADVANCED PLAN and will be easy to make a mistake. Please do not attempt as a first project.

Instructions

Step 1

Build the Box. Begin by attaching the inner dividers together, as shown above. Start on the inside and work outward. It always is a good idea to mark out your joints on both the inside and the outside of your boards so you know where to line up your boards, and where to fasten. Also in this step, if you would like to add a shelf to the right compartment, cut the shelf (or shelves) at 15″ from 1×16 scraps. You can also attach later using shelf pins to create adjustable shelves. Remember that your boards are 3/4″ thick. Use 2″ screws and glue.

Step 2

Back. Square up your project and add the back. The easiest way is to use lots of glue and 1 1/4″ brad nails (either with your pneumatic nailer set on a lower pressure setting to keep the nails from shooting through) or with a good ole hammer. You can use the scraps from the back as your door and drawer face rails and stiles.

Step 3

1×2 Inner Boards. Begin by building the top drawer divider system by fastening the blue, green and pink boards together. Use 2″ screws (you won’t need many). Then fasten the Green and Pink boards to the box, usine 1 1/4″ screws and glue. Fasten the boards from underneath to hide your screws. Don’t forget the bottom board!

Step 4

Base Moulding. Cut your bottom moulding and attach, using 1 1/4″ nails and glue. Then cut out the moulding as shown above using a jigsaw.

Step 5

Step 6

Small Top Drawers

Because these drawers are so small, I have decided to not add drawer slides to the drawers. If you would like to add drawer slides, you would need to build the drawer 1″ less on the sides to account for a 1/2″ side mount drawer slide. Build 2 Drawers.

Construct your drawer by first fastening the back to the bottom using 2″ screws. Then fasten the sides to the bottom and the back using 2″ screws and glue. Then attach the face. I like to fit the drawer into the drawer housing without the face attached, then line the face up with the drawer and fasten in place centering the face on the opening.

Step 7

Large Bottom Drawers

These drawers are quite a bit larger, and you will need to use drawer slides. I have designed these drawers with undermount slides to make them easier to install, but you could also use side mount slides. You would then need to make your drawer 1″ less wide to accommodate 1/2 clearance side mount slides.

1. Drawer Face. Build your drawer face as shown above. Use glue. Clamp and let dry flat, stacked on top of each other, on a level surface, with a heavy object on top.

Step 8

Drawer Box. First cut your drawer bottom using a 1×16 @ 21″, and then trim the 1×16 down to a finished size of 21″ x 14″. By doing this, you will get a more square drawer bottom. Then fasten the back to the bottom using 2″ screws, then the sides. Use glue. Mount the faceless drawer onto the undermount drawer slides. Push the drawer all the way into the drawer housing, adjust so that the faceless drawer is inset 3/4″. Set the face on the drawer box and screw in place, centering on the opening.

Step 9

Large Door

Build the Large Door Face as you did the large drawer faces.

Comments

Emily (not verified)

Sat, 04/17/2010 - 00:49

YES! Thank you, thank you, thank you!

I think you'll be get a lot of Bragging Board pictures from readers (including me!) very soon :)

Dana Enzor (not verified)

Mon, 04/19/2010 - 03:30

Yay!! Thanks so much! I can now get started on this system for a friend that I have been eyeing for her for months!!

Amy Carter (not verified)

Mon, 04/19/2010 - 06:20

Can I just tell you how freaking happy I am that I found your blog??? My husband is a wanna-be handyman and I like to help (sometimes). I really really really want that pottery barn changing system for when we have our first baby (sometime next year, hopefully), but we would never be able to afford it. THANK YOU for taking the time to make all these detailed plans and giving them to us for free!!! Now our nursery will be inexpensive, beautiful, and functional.

geoff simpson (not verified)

Mon, 08/09/2010 - 16:19

Ana...you complete me!

I just completed the dresser/change-table portion of this build with very few changes. If it wasn't for your cutlist and instruction, i couldn't possibly have completed it.

Kelsey (not verified)

Sat, 01/22/2011 - 12:23

Ana,
i was looking at this and wanting to maybe make it a little different and add another set of the drawers to one side and make it a dresser (so it had 4 small drawers, 4 large drawers, and the cabinent), and my husband and i were wondering if you left room on the drawers for drawer glides to be used?

Guest (not verified)

Mon, 01/16/2012 - 05:48

Hi Ana - I tried to follow along to where the rest of the change table was for the tutorial but couldn't find a link - any chance you could direct me to the right place?

thanks a bunch!

Steph

Guest1 (not verified)

Sun, 07/15/2012 - 07:41

I am currently building this changing table and realized the drawers in your plans do not match what you have done in your pictures. Do you have any size revisions that I can reference to be sure I am building correctly? I want to match the way it was done in your pictures. Thanks!

ASmith317 (not verified)

Tue, 08/14/2012 - 10:07

Ana can u please send me the plans for the side hutchs for some reason they are not pulling up through the link. i would be sooo greatful!!!
thanks

Rachel Mills (not verified)

Thu, 09/20/2012 - 11:41

I am very anxious to start this project for my baby girls room! I cannot get the link for the side hutches to pull up it says that the link is unavailable. :( Is there any way you could direct me to the right place or send them to me? Thanks so much! I love your site!

Sasha Brynn (not verified)

Mon, 10/01/2012 - 16:25

HELP!!! I have all the plans except the SIDE HUTCHES!! I am finally building this project, but I need the rest of the plans!!! Everytime I try to get to the side hutch plans, it tells me 'File Not Found' or 'Webpage Cannot be Found'... It doesn't seem to matter what web browser I use! Can anyone send it or fix the problem!! PLEASE!!!

Calmari

Thu, 03/07/2013 - 10:15

I am interested in the plans for the side hutches, but following the link gives a 'file not found' error. I tried using the link that Jen G. posted above but got an error with that as well. Any help would be appreciated!

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!