Mini Mod Wine Bar

Difficulty
Intermediate
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I loved Lady Goats Mod Wine Bar, but it was too large for my dining room. I was also inspired by a plan on woodcraft.com that incorporated the stemware in the cabinet. I combined the best elements of each plan and came up with my "Mini Mod Wine Bar". I've built many plans from this site, so I thought it was time to contribute. After I built my original cabinet, I made some tweaks to the plan and the result is the plan below. This is my first published plan, so bear with me :) Please let me know if there are any errors, revisions needed or if you have any questions. Enjoy and good luck!

Dimensions

Preparation

Shopping List

1 sheet 4'x8' 1/2" plywood (you'll have extra)
2 2x2x8
9 feet of 1x4 boards
8 feet of 1x3 boards
5 feet of 1x12 boards
1 foot of 1x5 boards
1 1/4" wood screws
1 1/4" finish nails
1" pocket screws
1 1/4" pocket screws
knob
wood glue
120 grit sandpaper

Common Materials
1 inch screws
1 1/4 inch screws
1 1/4 inch finish nails
120 grit sandpaper
Cut List

2 - 1/2" plywood 11 1/4" x 31 1/2"
2 - 1x4 @ 11 1/4"
2 - 1x3 @ 11 1/4"
4 - 2x2 @ 33 1/2"
3 - 1x12 @ 11"
8 - 1x3 @ 11"
2 - 1/2" plywood 2 1/4" x 13 1/2"
2 - 1/2" plywood 1 3/8" x 13 1/2"
2 - 1/2" plywood 1 1/2" x 13 1/2"
1 - 1x4 @ 15"
1 - 1x12 @ 15"
1 - 1/2" plywood 11" x 5 1/2"
1 - 1/2" plywood 11" x 12 1/2"
2 - 1x4 @ 13"
2 - 1x4 @ 9 1/4"
1 - 1x5 @ 10 3/4"
1 - 1/4" plywood 10 3/4" x 13"
4 - 1/4" plywood 11" x 13 1/2"

Cutting Instructions

The side panels are made from 1/2" plywood. To make them, rip the 1/2" plywood to width (11 1/4"), then cut to length. The shelves, front rail, back rails, top supports, back pieces and bottle dividers are all the same width (11"), set your saw once and cut all these pieces to width at the same time to ensure a perfect fit.

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Hammer
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Miter Saw
Table Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Build two side panels. First cut 1x2s and 1x4s to the width of the plywood side panel (11 1/4"), then attach with glue and 1 1/4" finish nails (nail from the inside to avoid nail holes on the outside of the piece).

You'll also need to make pocket holes in the front and back edge of each side panel to attach the legs in step 2. Make pocket holes for 1/2" stock and position the holes so the will be hidden by other elements of the piece (see diagram). This way you'll avoid having to fill any pocket holes.

Step 2

Cut four legs. Attach the legs using glue and 1" pocket screws using the pocket holes you made in Step 1. Be sure the side panels are flush to the inside of the legs. Side panels will be set in approximately 1/4" from the outside of the leg.

Step 3

Cut shelf parts and assemble using glue and pocket holes set for 3/4" stock and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Attach completed shelves using pocket holes set for 1/2" stock and 1" pocket hole screws. Start with the bottom shelf and work up. For alignment purposes it's helpful to cut two pieces of scrap wood 4 1/2" tall. Clamp the scrap to the bottom of each side panel, then you can set the shelf on top of the scrap and attach the shelf with pocket screws. For the next shelf, cut two pieces of scrap wood 11" tall. Set the scrap on top of the first shelf and clamp to the side panel, then set the shelf on top of the scrap and attach the shelf with pocket screws. Repeat for the final shelf. NOTE: Be sure all shelves are flush to the front legs (the back of the shelf will be set in approximately 1/2" from the back of the legs to accept the back panels in Step 8)

Step 5

Step 6

The back rails are attached flush to the legs (directly below the shelf).

Step 7

The stemware holders are made from 1/2" plywood. Rip parts to width and cut to length, attach using glue and 1 1/4 finish nails.

Step 8

Once glue is dry, attach stemware holders beneath top shelf. Cut a piece of scrap wood to 3" to use a spacer to properly align the holders.

Step 9

Cut top supports and attach using pocket holes set for 3/4" stock and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws. The front support is set in 1" from the front of the legs and the rear support is set in 1/2" from the back of the legs. Drill 4 holes, one in each corner, so the top can be installed in the next step.

Step 10

Cut top pieces attach using pocket holes set for 3/4" stock and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws. Attach top to base using 1 1/4" screws through the 4 holes drilled in the top supports.

Step 11

Cut top and bottom back panels and attach using 1 1/4 finish nails.

Step 12

I hate drawer slides, so this plan doesn't use any! Measure the drawer opening before cutting any drawer parts. Please allow for 1/8 " on the right and left side of the drawer, so it will move freely. Adjust the dimensions of the drawer if necessary. Cut the drawer box part and assemble using pocket holes set for 3/4" stock and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws.

Step 13

Cut the drawer front (be sure to allow 1/8" on each side of the drawer front). Slide the drawer box into the opening and shim the drawer front so it's evenly spaced in the opening (coins make great shims!). Drill a hole for the knob, remove drawer front, drawer box and install the knob. Reinstall the drawer and adjust spacing around drawer front then tighten the knob screw. From inside the box use two 1 1/4" wood screws to secure the drawer front to the drawer box. Cut 1/8" hardboard and install to the bottom of the drawer with 1 1/4" finish nails.

Step 14

The four pieces that make up the bottle dividers are 1/4" plywood and are identical. The easiest way to make them is with a router table and a 1/4" straight cutting bit. Set the fence for 3 1/2" and make a pass to the 6 3/4" mark, then flip and make a second pass - that's it! Once cuts are made on all four pieces, assemble (it will be a snug fit, so glue isn't needed) and install in the bottle divider area.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Project Type

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!