Modern Adirondack Chair

Submitted by Ana White on Fri, 06/07/2019 - 12:46
Difficulty
Beginner
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This modern style Adirondack chair plan features clean lines and simple materials.  The base is sturdy and substantial 2x6s, so it will hold heavy weights and won't blow away in the wind. You'll love our step by step plans and diagrams.  

modern adirondack chairs painted green

Reader submitted photo by HARLEYANDCHRISTINA 

 

Modern Adirondack Chair Features

  • Modern Styling
  • Deep recline for enhanced relaxation
  • 2x6 base framing for increased strength, durability, and weight
  • 2x4 legs will last longer and hold more weight
  • Simple angle cut construction that is easy to build

 

Modern Adirondack Chair Plans

This is an updated plan.  If you need the old version of this plan, you can find it here.

Dimensions
dimensions diagram for modern outdoor chair
Dimensions are shown in the above diagram

Preparation

Shopping List
  • Cedar wood or other exterior appropriate is recommended.  You can use whitewood or spruce - just make sure the wood is finished well.
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 9 feet long or 9 foot stud length
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 4 feet long
  • 1 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - 1x6 @ 8 feet long
  • 2 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long
  • 8 - 2-1/2" pocket hole screws (recommended but can substitute for 2-3/4" self tapping wood screws)
  • 25 - 2-3/4" exterior self tapping wood screws
  • 70 - 2" exterior self tapping wood screws

 

 

Common Materials
120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Cut List
  • 2 – 2×6 @ 29-1/2″ (Stringers, cut in step 1)
  • 1 – 2×6 @ 21″ (Front Apron)
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 18" - (Base Support)
  • 2 – 2×4 @ 18″ (Legs, ends cut at 20 degrees off square, ends ARE parallel, long point to short point measurement)
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 24-3/16" - (Arm Supports, both ends cut at 20 degrees off square, long point to short point measurement, ends ARE parallel)
  • 1 - 2x2 @ 24" - (Back Support)
  • 3 - 1x6 @ 32" - (Back Slats)
  • 1 - 1x4 @ 18" - (Seat Back Top)
  • 5 - 1x4 @ 21" (Seat Slats)
  • 2 - 1x4 @ 23-1/2" (Arm Rests)

 

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Circular Saw
Miter Saw
Power Sander

Instructions

Step 1

Mark out the stringer pattern on 2x6 stringer boards.

Cut angles with a circular saw.

Cut two matching.

Step 2

Attach stringer to front apron.  Pocket holes would be hidden and recommended, but you can also use 2-3/4" self tapping wood screws.

Step 3

Add the back aprons support between the stringers.

Step 4

Cut legs on compound miter saw.

Attach to the base with 2-3/4" screws.

Step 5

Attach 2x2 side supports with 2-3/4" screws, making sure the 2x2s are level all the way back.

Step 6

Use 2-3/4" screws to attach the back support between the arm supports.

Step 7

Add the two outside back slats with 2" self tapping wood screws.

Step 8

Attach top with 2" self tapping wood screws.

Step 9

Center remaining back slat in between and attach with 2" self tapping wood screws.

Step 10

Lay seat slats and screw down with 2" self tapping wood screws.

TIP: Attach the front and back slats.  Then attach the center slat.  Then center the remaining two in between.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
We recommend pre-finishing boards.

Comments

jimmyp (not verified)

Thu, 05/17/2012 - 10:54

hello , question , for us old folks with stiff backs is there any way to make the angle not so steep ,, its mighty rough getting outta these boys ,, Thanks

Hailey-Guest (not verified)

Wed, 07/04/2012 - 14:17

Are there plans for the foot stools yet? I couldn't find any but they would really complete the look!

swenson68

Wed, 11/14/2012 - 22:11

Would like to save this plan but there is in an error in opening the pdf file link

dallynd

Wed, 05/01/2013 - 12:00

Beautiful and I want to make it, but I can't seem to link to the PDF. All others are working fine for me.

CptChris

Thu, 06/19/2014 - 06:43

Just out of curiosity...would it be bad to build these chairs out of cedar...is it too soft? I can only assume these plans are made out of pine? Is there a stronger but more cost effective wood to build these out of?

Also...any reason to not use 2x8's or 2x4's for the major structural weight bearing parts? Other then cost? Might last longer?