Modern Farm Table

Submitted by Ana White on Mon, 11/23/2009 - 11:59
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This easy to build modern farm table plan will add that touch of rustic modern to your contemporary space. Plans also available for matching modern farm bench and square modern farm table. By Reader submitted photos.

grey modern farm table
modern farm table

30" High x 66" long x 32" wide (approximate)


Shopping List

6 - 2x6 boards (make sure these boards are VERY straight) (about $2.50 each)

5 - 2x2 board (under tabletop supports) (about $1 each)

2 - 2x4 boards (about $1 each)

2 1/2" wood self tapping screws

Sandpaper, ranging from coarse to fine

Wood Filler

Stain or Paint of choice

Common Materials
120 grit sandpaper
wood conditioner
paint brush
Cut List

A) 4 - 2x6 cut at 30" (Legs)

B) 2 - 2x2 cut at 33" (Inside End Supports)

C) 2 - 2x4 @ 63" (Side Apron)

D) 2 - 2x4 @ 25" (End Apron)

E) 7 - 2x2 cut at 33" (Under tabletop supports)

F) 6 - 2x6 cut at 63" (Tabletop pieces)

Cutting Instructions

It is very important that you measure the width of your boards and make sure they are 5 1/2" wide (tabletop boards) otherwise, your aprons could be short or long. See the Square Modern Farm Table Plans for a tutorial on how to build the tabletop first with pocket hole screws, and then attach the legs and aprons. That way you can adjust your aprons as necessary.

Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander


Step 1

Start by taking 2 of the leg pieces, A and marking 1 1/2" down from the top, and 1 1/2" in from the outer edge. Then screw one of B, the outside end support, to the two legs as shown above. Do the same for the other set of legs.

Step 2

Now add the side aprons, C, as shown above, screwing into the end support, B. Also, screw through the outside of A, the legs, into the end edges of C, the side apron. Now is a good time to check for square. If you do not know how to check for square, see the HOW-TO section for a tutorial.

Step 3

Now add the end aprons, D, screwing into B, the end supports. Again, check for square.

Step 4

Measure down 1 1/2" down from the top of the side apron, and mark all the way down the length of the apron. This will be the top side of the tabletop support pieces, E. Then mark every 6" and place a board E, keeping the top edge 1 1/2" below the top of the table, as shown above. Do not worry about the last support piece not being exactly 6" from the end - this does not matter. Make sure your project is square.

Step 5

Step 6

Screw pattern for the tabletop pieces shown above.

Step 7

Flip the table over on it's top and predril through all the 2x2 support pieces, drilling two holes per tabletop piece, per support piece. You will drill a total of 108 holes. Screw the top to the 2x2 support pieces through the predrilled holes.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill holes with putty and finish as desired. If you are staining the table, you may wish to fill the screw holes after staining, as wood putty does not stain the same color as natural wood.
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Kate Bailey (not verified)

Tue, 02/02/2010 - 10:55

After reading the instructions really thoroughly, I have a couple questions.

In recalculating the cuts for a different sized table, do we assume that a 2x6 actually measures 1.5 x 5.5?

In step 4, when you place the support pieces, do you drill them into place from the side aprons, or do they just stay in place because of the tension of the rest of the table?

In step 5, when you mark and predrill the holes on the tabletop pieces, do you also predrill through the end support pieces?

In step 7, I'm guessing you predrill from the support pieces up through the table top to make sure they're lined up. When you actually put the screws in, do you flip the table back over so the top of the screw is showing on the table top, or do you do it from the underside of the table?

Also, just a general question... do you generally sand all of the wood before you start building, and then stain or paint once it's all assembled?

Sorry to ask so many questions.. I just want to make sure I do this all correctly! :)

Liz (not verified)

Mon, 02/15/2010 - 12:28

Hey Kate I just built this table this weekend. I don't know the answer to all your questions but I can at least tell you what I did on a few of them.

For step four I did drill the 2x2s in place. I didn't want there to be enough tention that they held themselves and risk bowing the table. Not sure if that is correct but that was my thought. Plus to get your 2x6s in top took just a hair of hammering on my part and they all would have fell out.

Not sure I understand your question all the way on step 5.

On step seven I skipped this cause I didn't have anyway of flipping the table over so all my holes are on top and its seems to be fine.

I sanded my table all after it was built then finished it. You can see pictures on my blog

Anna Jo (not verified)

Mon, 02/15/2010 - 16:43

Just got home from purchasing all the lumber for this table and the benches. :) I am beyond thrilled! Lowe's cut it all for us, and the guy triple checked the measurement of each cut. They were so friendly and wished us luck! I am so ready to get started on the building of this table! :)

Brandye (not verified)

Tue, 02/16/2010 - 08:26

I have wanted a patio dining set for years, but I am WAY too frugal to lay down hundreds of dollars for one! I am considering building this table to use for outdoor dining. We have a large covered patio, but I am really unsure what to put over it to really protect it from the elements. Any suggestions?

3Gs4me (not verified)

Tue, 02/16/2010 - 14:56

I love this table (and the blog in general as it has so many great plans and ideas)and really want to make it. While washing my current table today though after my three kids ate breakfast I wondered if using several boards on the top would make for loads of food in between the boards. Has anyone made this and had or not had this issue?

shauna (not verified)

Wed, 02/17/2010 - 06:46

I LOVE all your plans Ana. I can't wait until it warms up a little outside so I can start making this table. I have been looking in stores for one we love and afford but I was definitely coming up short. This looks perfect...and the benches too. You must have been reading my mind. Thanks for having such a fantastic site and for being so generous with sharing your plans. I can't wait to send you photos of our table when it is done!

Monique (not verified)

Wed, 02/17/2010 - 09:20

I was wondering if I could change the legs to a turn style. I want to make the table look a little more decorative. By changing the legs would I need to make any adjustment to attaching them to the table? I found the legs at Lowe's for $10 each. Thanks and love your blog.

dilsy (not verified)

Mon, 02/22/2010 - 09:19

Hi Ana

I'm building this modern farmhouse table but I'm a little bit concerned that drilling and gluing the table-top will not allow the tabletop to float. Any thoughts on this issue? Do you ever use tabletop clips or fasteners to alleviate this issue? I'm giving this table to a friend and I don't want it to crack after a while.

Let me know what your thoughts are when you get the chance.

Thanks so much btw. Your blog has given me the confidence to work on things I otherwise wouldn't.

Thanks so much