Modular Bar Base Door

Difficulty
Intermediate
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How to build a door for the Modular Bar Plan collection.

Well, Happy Monday!!!

This morning started with the phone ringing and someone knocking on the door before we could remember that it's spring forward day, and I was springing out of bed pretending I wasn't sleeping in. Should be called we got an hour less sleep day. 

Spring Cleaning

This weekend, despite weather continuing to deny spring is coming, I got the spring cleaning bug and did some blog clean up.  Most everything should be in pretty much the same spot, just more focused on cleaning things up and downplaying graphics so our content can stand out better.  No biggie.

New Blog Friends Page

And then I finally got my blogroll page together!  If you haven't already, take a second to meet a few of my friends - you will be DIY-amazed at the creativity, resourcefulness, and helpful, giving spirit of the DIY blogging community.  I'll be adding to this list, so check back!

Amazing Brag Posts

Okay, so every brag post is super amazing - but I thought I'd share a few that have been recently added.  Mike built this dining set from pallets and a 2x4!
And this bed from Jenny at Birds and Soap has a secret!  The footboard hinges up to reveal a secret storage compartment.  Uh, wow!
And can you believe that this is Bunnie's first project?  Seriously amazing!  She spent $800 on this Queen sized loft bed project ... INCLUDING the new tools.. table saw, nailer, kreg, new drill!!!

Thank you for Your Support!

And a huge thank you for your support!  This was my first year in the running for a Homies award for Best DIY Blog, and although I did not come up with the most votes - congrats to Elsie from A Beautiful Mess! - I feel like a big winner with 600+ of you stopping over to support me!  Thank you so much! 

Building Plans

We are working on a pretty large scale project for our home, and I hope that we will be able to share the plans with you this week.  Something about spring just makes me want to get the house in order, make my cleaning processes ultra efficient, get rid of the clutter, and get outside and enjoy the weather.  The projects we are building will help simplify our lives, create storage, and free up more time for soaking up Vitamin D!
Remember the bar that Gina made?

Wine Grid Hutch Hutch with Stemware Holders Wine Grid Base
And we've had a few requests to do one final plan in our modular wine bar collection.  You can click the text in the diagram to go to different plans in this collection.  Today, I'm just going to put together the plans for the door, and also give you some tips on hinges.
Dimensions
Dimensions are shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List

1 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long
1 - base cabinet
1 - knob or handle
1 set of either narrow profile or surface mount hinges

Common Materials
Cut List

Measure your door openings first before building doors. Doors should be 1/8" less on each side, or 1/4" smaller overall.

2 - 1x3 @ 17 1/4"
2 - 1x3 @ 14 1/2"

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

First you will need to build the base from this plan. If you add shelves, leave the front trim off to give room for the inset door.  Measure the opening, confirming it is 1/4" wider and taller than the overall dimensions of door in this plan.

Step 2

Build the door with 3/4" pocket holes and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut plywood to fit back and attach with glue and nails. It's better to make the plywood smaller than larger - this is not the place for overhangs.

If you are using the euro style surface mount non-mortise full overlay/inset hinges we are all so fond of, you will need to notch the back plywood at the hinge installation spot. These hinges only work with 3/4" stock, and with the back plywood, your doors are too thick.

Step 4

We have been putting hinges on quite a few projects lately, and have been using a few different types.

Narrow Profile or Butt/Mortise Hinges

These hinges are special because they are designed so the screw heads sit flush, and can be installed on inset doors in the gap between the door and the opening.  However, I find notching out the door to fit thickness of hinge where it is installed to work really well.  You can do this by simply making 1/8" deep cuts every 1/8 or so, then removing the material with a chisel, or using a router if you have one.
These hinges are very inexpensive and can also be installed surface mount. You will need to add a magnetic clasp or other stop to keep the door shut.
There's also decorative types, and these, though more expensive, do not require any notching. if the gap matches the overall thickness of the hinge.
When attaching hinges, I like to cut some scraps 1/8" thick and place in the gaps around door for an even fit.
Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

Bunnie1978

Tue, 03/13/2012 - 14:09

Thank you, Anna!
I'm still so proud of my work! The newness hasn't worn out for Aiden either. Every time he goes into his room he says "LOOK! Its my new bed that Mommy made for you! I want to slide" LOL
He's 4.

[email protected] (not verified)

Thu, 03/15/2012 - 09:30

Can someone there please fix the PDF file link so I may download it? This is my preferred plan saving method.

Thanks for the help!

Darin

birdsandsoap

Sun, 03/18/2012 - 00:14

I'm trying to get over the learning curve with sketchup. UGH! I want to try to post some plans with my next big projects I'm currently working on (bunkbed that literally kicks a$$ and a bowfront fishtank stand). Loving the few days of sunshine in between the cloudy, rainy days because it gets me outside working on these awesome plans. I just ordered a rail and stile router bit and I'm going "full cabinet door" on this tank stand. We'll see how that one goes....

Bunnie1978

Sun, 03/18/2012 - 05:55

And a little bit scary. I have 30 tanks all on stands made out of 2 x 4s... Scary. But if the outside of your tanks is handmade and the inside is designed...what a great representation of you.

birdsandsoap

Sun, 03/18/2012 - 11:06

My husband decided that he wanted to set up a tank, then quickly decided that he wanted to try saltwater. I was against the idea forever because I didn't want an eyesore tank in the house. So, I decided that if I could build the stand to my liking, we would both be happy.
I've been reading reef forums for months trying to glean knowledge on stand design and setup. I think I am more into this than my husband now! So far, all of the builders have chimed in saying that 2x4 construction is overkill for a 72 gallon tank. And I must say, I am thrilled to hear it!

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!