Modular Bar Wine Grid Hutch

Difficulty
Intermediate
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How to build wine grid hutch inspired by Pottery Barn Modular Build Your Own Bar.

My sister moved away from Alaska a few years ago, and she keeps saying she wants to come back up in August. Because she wants to go blueberry picking.

We are quite blessed up here in Alaska, with patches of blueberries for all, to pick to your hearts content - or at least your hearts health.

Each winter, I say this is the winter that I will take the gallons and gallons of blueberries I've picked and make wine. Has anyone every made blueberry wine? Lord knows, I've quit holding my breath when I use a saw, but I'm still afraid to try my hand at wine making. I feel like the process is done blindfolded.

And I must say, building a wine hutch is less intimidating than actually making the wine to fill it up for me. But wouldn't that be quite the conversation piece, a wall of wine storage, filled with wine you picked and made yourself?

Gina and I worked together to create the wine base - check out her tips on the breadboard pullout - and the hutch with stemware holders.  I'd also like to build on these plans and add a wine grid hutch. 

Wine Wedding Shower

On a side note, one of my favorite bridal shower ideas is to build a wine storage piece as a gift from the hostess, and then throw a shower asking guests to bring their most favorite bottle of wine (or two).  

special thanks to the kind folks over at PureBond for allowing us to use their wood grains in this project plan.

Dimensions
Dimensions are shown above. Holds 32 wine bottles.

Preparation

Shopping List

Approximately 1/2 sheet of 3/4" plywood ripped intro strips 11 1/2" wide, referred to as 1x12 boards. Since you will most likely be building the base, you may be able to share plywood with the base.
1 - sheet 1/4" plywood
2 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
1 - 1x3 @ 2 feet long
1 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long

Common Materials
1 1/4 inch finish nails
120 grit sandpaper
Cut List

2 - 1x12 @ 34" (sides)
4 - 1x2 @ 11 1/2" (trim)
4 - 2x2 @ 34" (legs)
1 - 1x12 @ 14 3/4" (shelf)
3 - 1x2 @ 14 3/4" (shelf trim and top support)
1 - 1x12 @ 17 3/4" (top)
1 - 1x2 @ 17 3/4" (top trim)
1 - 1x3 @ 17 3/4" (top front trim)
3 - 1/4" plywood @ 13 3/4" x 33 1/4"
7 - 1/4" plywood @ 13 3/4" x 14 3/4"
1 - 1/4" plywood @ 17 3/4" x 34 3/4"

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

This project is shown in PureBond Formaldehyde Free Hardwood Plywood. Gina's base is also built with PureBond. You can use 1x12s, but it will change the measurements slightly depending on your 1x12 widths. Make sure you measure the width of your 1x12s and adjust accordingly. This plan assumes you have ripped 3/4" plywood into strips 11 1/2" wide.

Drill 3/4" pocket holes along side and top edges for attaching top and legs in later steps of side 1x12s.

Then on the outsides, nail on 1x2 trim at top and bottom with 1 1/4" finish nails and glue, outside edges are flush.

Step 2

Now attach legs to the sides with 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and wood glue.

Step 3

Next, build your bottom shelf with 3/4" pocket holes and attach to sides in the same manner, flush to the bottom.

Step 4

For the header, attach flush to front as shown in diagram.

Step 5

Step 6

I really liked what Gina did here 

She clamped the wine storage pieces together and cut all at once.  Very smart.
Remember, you will need to cut three tall dividers.

Step 7

And seven short dividers.

Step 8

Slide together to form your wine grids.

Step 9

Then insert in hutch. To make it easy to remove later on, make the small shelf pieces removeable from the front. Then you can pull the shelves out, collapse the tall dividers and pull out through the front.

Step 10

Then finally, nail the back on with glue.

You must secure the hutch to the base to avoid tipping hazards and also a stud in the wall behind the hutch.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

piefairy

Fri, 02/17/2012 - 18:34

if wine-making is like hard-cider-making -- and it is, it's exactly the same process with different fruit -- then it's SUPER easy. you need a little bit of infrastructure -- the right vessels to ferment things in, appropriate food-safe sterilization techniques, etc -- but once you put your juice in your carboy (glass fermenting jug), you forget about it for a few months until it's turned into something delicious. =)

my husband's been making hard cider for several years now, and a couple of weeks ago we just bottled the 2011 batches. we're at something like 120 wine bottles full. while our current home doesn't have the space for dedicated wine-or-cider-storage furniture (all the bottles live in cases that can be stacked in the back closet), i know that when we *do* have a house and space, the booze production will definitely increase, and i will probably come back to this plan then. =)

thanks!

claydowling

Fri, 02/17/2012 - 18:56

Making wine is a lot like woodworking. It requires some knowledge, but you can get somebody to show you how it's done and you'll be off to the races.

Pam the Goatherd

Sat, 02/18/2012 - 08:38

I make about 10 gallons each of dandelion, strawberry, and raspberry wine every year. It's easy. I use 5 gallon water jugs from the local water cooler supplier for my carboys. The gas-lock that goes on top to let the fermentation gases release while keeping the fruit flies out can be purchased at any wine shop or on-line. The recipe I have is simple, using regular baking yeast and sugar to get things going. The only thing preventing me from making blueberry wine is that we only have two small blueberry bushes in our garden so far. We will be adding more this spring. Once they get producing at full tilt I'll be making wine with them too. So, I say GO FOR IT and make some wine. You'll be hooked once you taste the wonderfulness of it!

Lynda0529

Sat, 02/18/2012 - 08:41

Just found your site and I am so excited ! I am 48 and I want to be you when I grow up ! Let's work on getting you on TV ! Thanks for sharing your knowledge !!

New member and excited....Lynda

Guest (not verified)

Mon, 02/20/2012 - 17:12

The essence of blueberries is actually quite fragile and will likely be stripped out of wine made from them as the carbon dioxide is generated, but you _might_ make it work. Here's how - yeasts will generally ferment to a certain concentration of of ethanol. If you used some sort of fruit (even blueberries) and then added fresh blueberries to the mixture as the yeast approach their point of stopping, you may find this works. In beer they do with with hops and call it "dry hopping".

Also, I'd suggest that you soak the berries in water at about 125 degrees F before creating juice as they tend to have lots of natural molds and other nasties.
Best of luck!

P. Mumphrey (not verified)

Sat, 01/05/2013 - 16:54

Ana,

I am so thankful I have found you site!!! It is by far the BEST DIY site available.

My husband and I are at the point where we are exhausted with spending so much money on low quality furniture. You see, my husband is in the military, and every 2 to 3 years, we relocate. Each time we relocate another piece of furniture is destroyed, and we are never reimbursed for the full amount we paid for the piece- it is always a percentage of the cost from the moving companies. To make matters worse, we end up with very little furniture in our new home until we can save up the money over several months to purchase new pieces. I will tell you, it is difficult working each day to see your hard-earned money going to waist. And here is where your site comes into the equation!!!!

I built my first coffee table about 2 week ago, and not only was my husband and I impressed with my new found woodworking skills, but we were able to build the VERY sturdy Tryde coffee table for for about $28!!! I will be building 2 more pieces (a console table and the modular wine bar), with the help of my very handy spouse, of course, within the next month.

So, thank you for this very insightful site, and I hope to see more of what you have to offer!!!

Also, great job on the momplex!!! My spouse and I have always talked about building our own home one day in the FAR future, and your endeavors were very motivating.

Thanks,

P. Mumphrey

drengr

Fri, 05/03/2013 - 15:11

I sooooooo identfy with what you are saying about miving with the military! I never minded the pay scale that some complain about, but when they depreciated my husband's 55gal fish tank by 60% because it was "used" (really exactly what was deteriorating in that glass structure with a steel band?) that really got my goat. Moving 18 times in 14 years kept us poor...along with the black-listed mover we got coming back from Germany.

I agree that Ana's blog is a lifesaver (and a sanity saver!)

Brad999

Thu, 03/24/2016 - 14:27

Hey looking to make this wondering if anybody has worked out the dimensions to make the bases but without the drawers?  Would still like to keep the height for extra wine storage though.

 

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!