Narrow Farmhouse Table

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Sun, 02/21/2010 - 23:13
Difficulty
Beginner
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Some dining spaces (or even work spaces) require a long thin table. This rustic simple table is easy to build, yet sturdy and stylish.

Special thanks to Deux Maison for sharing their amazing photos. Make sure you stop over to see more photos and read about their building experience.

Dimensions
96" x 30" x 30"

Preparation

Shopping List

2 – 2×2 Boards, 8′ Long ($2 Each for pine)
4 – 1×8 Boards, 8′ Long ($7 Each for pine)
2 – 1×3 Boards, 8′ Long ($1.50 Each for pine)
1 – 1×4 Board, 10′ Long ($4 Each for pine)
2 – 1×6 Boards, 10′ Long ($6 Each for pine)
1 1/4″ and 2″ Finish Nails
2″ Wood Screws (about 100)
2 1/2″ Wood Screws (about 20 screws)
Wood Glue
Wood Filler
Sandpaper
Finishing Supplies

Common Materials
120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Cut List

4 – 1×3 @ 29 1/4″ (Table End Legs)
4 – 1×4 @ 29 1/4″ (Table Side Legs)
2- 1×6 @ 88″ (Side Aprons)
2 – 1×6 @ 23 3/4″ (End Aprons)
2 – 1×3 @ 23 3/4″ (End Stretcher)
8 – 2×2 @ 23 3/4″ (Under Tabletop Supports)

Cutting Instructions

This table is highly customizeable to fit your needs. Note that the tabletop expects your tabletop boards (the 1x8s) to be 7 1/2" wide. If your 1x8s are not 7 1/2" wide, adjust accordingly.

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
General Instructions

Work on a clean level surface. Check for square after each step. Use straight lumber. Measure and confirm your cuts before cutting. Dryfit your boards before fastening. Always use glue. Predrill and countersink screws. Use saftey precautions and protective eye and hearing gear.

Instructions

Step 1

End Legs. Taper your end leg pieces as shown above. Cut the taper in a straight line, starting 5 1/2″ from the top, and tapering in 1″ at the bottom. This is shown above. Do this on all four legs. The end legs are made of 1×3 boards.

Step 2

Side Legs. Taper the side legs as you did the end legs from step 1. The side legs are made of 1x4s . Use the measurements above to guide you.

Step 3

Leg Assembly. Assembly your legs as shown above. Be aware of the leg postion on the table as you assemble, as the legs will be assembled different depending on the position. Remember, the 1×3 leg sides are on the ends, the 1×4 leg sides are on the sides of the table. This is shown above.

Step 4

Side Aprons. Fasten the side aprons in place as shown above. Make sure you take a square of the legs as you do this. This is shown above.

Step 5

Step 6

Under Tabletop Supports. Attach the tabletop supports as shown here. Use the measurements above to guide you.

Step 7

Tabletop Pieces. Start by finding the center of your table. Mark and place your table top piece, using the center mark for your first boards. Only attach on the ends in this step, using the screw pattern above. DO NOT ATTACH IN THE CENTER. Attach the remaining tabletop pieces on the ends only.

Step 8

Tabletop Pieces. From the underside, fasten through the under tabletop support pieces into the tabletop pieces. Start with the middle boards and work your way out. Minimize any gaps between the boards. Predrill and countersink your screws. To further strengthen the table, you can add simpson strong tie corner brackets to the corners.

Help Improve This Plan

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Comments

Nathan (not verified)

Mon, 07/19/2010 - 18:01

@Steff--Minwax polyurethane. It's a clear sealant. I built a coffee table 8 years ago when I went to college, and I put one coat of poly on it. Three years of dorm life and five years of marriage later (three of those with kids--three of them, three and under, they use it for their art projects) and it still looks nice.

@ Ana--I'm working on this table now, and I noticed an error--the stretchers on the ends need to be 1 1/2" longer than your plans list. They should be 25 1/4". The error is from taking the end apron length and copying it to the stretchers; the end aprons sit inside the side aprons while the stretchers will butt directly against the 1x4 legs.

@Anonymous--You need a coffee can and a jigsaw. Put the coffee can on the corner of the table so the edges of the can sit at the edges of the table. Trace the curve, then cut with your jigsaw.

@Lisa--The easiest way would be to build the apron, and put the spindles inside the corners:
+-------------+
|0***********0|
|*************|
|0***********0|
+-------------+

but this might not look the best. You can buy angle mounting hardware at home depot:
http://tinyurl.com/25ftlqx
One side of the angle attaches to the inside of the apron, one side attaches to the inside of the spindle.

Jo (not verified)

Wed, 09/22/2010 - 04:27

Parties,

Being an ex-military wife, I know your concerns, I would make this table as two square tables that can be arranged together to make one long diningroom table (could of c-clips under to stabalize it and keep it together) or as two independent tables should you be 'blessed' with one of those itsy bitsy tiny wienie 'diningrooms' the 2nd one can be a craft table, or study desk in the corner of the living room for your children, spouse or yourself to work at. This way, you will always have enough seating if need be, and can create the wonderful GIANT dining table if your lucky enough to get a real diningroom in your next base house.
Hope this helps.
Yes, I did do this, we bought, way back when ;) two small retangle tables, four kids, that we could arrange either to make one long table, or one large square table, or two seperate tables in two differnt rooms with two different uses as we moved from base to base, house to house for 21 years.

Josh (not verified)

Sun, 11/28/2010 - 15:48

Has anyone had trouble with the short distance between the bottom of the table and the top of a dining chair? I'm interested in this table but 23 3/4" seems awful short. Am I wrong?

hope_cuevas@ho…

Tue, 04/12/2011 - 08:36

My father just finished this table and there is not a lot of clearance between an 18" seat height chair and the apron.  We are now trying to figure out how to fix that...

Belinda (not verified)

Thu, 12/09/2010 - 04:31

You are looking at the part where she tapered the legs, its 30" all together. The taper part starts at the 23 3/4 mark. I am planning on building a desk for our home office using a different plan on here but with the same idea of this one and after that I want to try my hand at a dining table. Going to use 4x4s for the legs though for more support.

LOVE your site!