Narrow Farmhouse Table

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Sun, 02/21/2010 - 23:13
Difficulty
Beginner
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Some dining spaces (or even work spaces) require a long thin table. This rustic simple table is easy to build, yet sturdy and stylish.

Special thanks to Deux Maison for sharing their amazing photos. Make sure you stop over to see more photos and read about their building experience.

Dimensions
96" x 30" x 30"

Preparation

Shopping List

2 – 2×2 Boards, 8′ Long ($2 Each for pine)
4 – 1×8 Boards, 8′ Long ($7 Each for pine)
2 – 1×3 Boards, 8′ Long ($1.50 Each for pine)
1 – 1×4 Board, 10′ Long ($4 Each for pine)
2 – 1×6 Boards, 10′ Long ($6 Each for pine)
1 1/4″ and 2″ Finish Nails
2″ Wood Screws (about 100)
2 1/2″ Wood Screws (about 20 screws)
Wood Glue
Wood Filler
Sandpaper
Finishing Supplies

Common Materials
120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Cut List

4 – 1×3 @ 29 1/4″ (Table End Legs)
4 – 1×4 @ 29 1/4″ (Table Side Legs)
2- 1×6 @ 88″ (Side Aprons)
2 – 1×6 @ 23 3/4″ (End Aprons)
2 – 1×3 @ 23 3/4″ (End Stretcher)
8 – 2×2 @ 23 3/4″ (Under Tabletop Supports)

Cutting Instructions

This table is highly customizeable to fit your needs. Note that the tabletop expects your tabletop boards (the 1x8s) to be 7 1/2" wide. If your 1x8s are not 7 1/2" wide, adjust accordingly.

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
General Instructions

Work on a clean level surface. Check for square after each step. Use straight lumber. Measure and confirm your cuts before cutting. Dryfit your boards before fastening. Always use glue. Predrill and countersink screws. Use saftey precautions and protective eye and hearing gear.

Instructions

Step 1

End Legs. Taper your end leg pieces as shown above. Cut the taper in a straight line, starting 5 1/2″ from the top, and tapering in 1″ at the bottom. This is shown above. Do this on all four legs. The end legs are made of 1×3 boards.

Step 2

Side Legs. Taper the side legs as you did the end legs from step 1. The side legs are made of 1x4s . Use the measurements above to guide you.

Step 3

Leg Assembly. Assembly your legs as shown above. Be aware of the leg postion on the table as you assemble, as the legs will be assembled different depending on the position. Remember, the 1×3 leg sides are on the ends, the 1×4 leg sides are on the sides of the table. This is shown above.

Step 4

Side Aprons. Fasten the side aprons in place as shown above. Make sure you take a square of the legs as you do this. This is shown above.

Step 5

Step 6

Under Tabletop Supports. Attach the tabletop supports as shown here. Use the measurements above to guide you.

Step 7

Tabletop Pieces. Start by finding the center of your table. Mark and place your table top piece, using the center mark for your first boards. Only attach on the ends in this step, using the screw pattern above. DO NOT ATTACH IN THE CENTER. Attach the remaining tabletop pieces on the ends only.

Step 8

Tabletop Pieces. From the underside, fasten through the under tabletop support pieces into the tabletop pieces. Start with the middle boards and work your way out. Minimize any gaps between the boards. Predrill and countersink your screws. To further strengthen the table, you can add simpson strong tie corner brackets to the corners.

Help Improve This Plan

We apologize if there was an error in this plan. Please help us out and report any errors here.

Comments

dbck

Mon, 08/08/2011 - 07:58

We are attempting to build this table right now :) But I have a question... how did you make the legs (Step 3)? Ana says to use 1 1/4″ and 2″ Finish Nails, 2″ Wood Screws (about 100), 2 1/2″ Wood Screws (about 20 screws)... but doesn't say when and where to use them all. We are making this for an office desk and want to make sure it's going to hold up. Did you just use nails? Any help would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks!

Guest (not verified)

Mon, 08/08/2011 - 10:05

I used the 2" finishing nails and a thin line of wood glue for the legs. Finishing nails will not be nearly as noticeable as screws here.

I would also suggest making the legs a little longer than suggested in the plans. The table is a little snug as illustrated.

In reply to by Guest (not verified)

dbck

Mon, 08/08/2011 - 13:30

Thanks guest :) I wish we had read the comments before we made all of our cuts! We will be ripping the aprons down an inch before assembling... and will have to lower the desk chairs a bit to give more room.

Guest (not verified)

Mon, 08/15/2011 - 08:47

I just got done building this desk and I'm ready to sand and stain. I absolutley love the look of it and want to do the same kind of stain. Can anybody tell me exactly what it looks like was used?

staylor (not verified)

Fri, 08/26/2011 - 09:29

Ana,
Great plan! I am impressed by the simple construction methods you devise that yield stunning results. I hope you sign and date every piece you make.

Friends and food go together so as you break bread with anyone who visits your home and eats at your table, encourage them to sign and date the underside of your table with a permanent marker. In this way, our 10' X 38" table has become our guest book and is the focal point in our home and a reminder of cherished moments. In the past 8 years we've had it, hundreds of people representing 6 continents have obliged our request to sign the table's underside. It is fun to hear the chuckles and exclamations of awe as guests sign and add to the table's own story, helping it grow into an hierloom.

eddshead

Tue, 10/25/2011 - 05:07

We built this table as we understood the plan. The table top is initially secured to the base by screwing 2 1/2" screws through the top of the table (Step 7 above), yet everyone's pictures show seamless table tops. Did everyone do pocket holes instead? Otherwise, how did you fill the countersunk screw holes?

c-e-fogus

Wed, 04/17/2013 - 05:58

I just got done making a shorter/thinner version of this table. I love it and it turned out great. One thing I wanted to suggest is that the aprons be a bit shorter. There is not much room between the chair and the apron. I would recommend pocket holes as well to give it a seamless exterior finish. It takes more time in the beginning to prep the boards but it saves a ton of time finishing the table. I used Minwax Golden Pecan stain and it came out almost exactly like the picture. This was my third project and I continue to love Ana's plans.

Dommers

Fri, 02/07/2014 - 05:18

I should have realized these plans were from 2010 but I do want to give a heads up, the cost is a little off. I ended up spending about 130 on lumber screws, wood glue and wood filler.

Dommers

Fri, 02/07/2014 - 05:18

I should have realized these plans were from 2010 but I do want to give a heads up, the cost is a little off. I ended up spending about 130 on lumber screws, wood glue and wood filler.

Rover12

Thu, 11/13/2014 - 12:32

Hello all,

I am in the planning stage of building this table to (hopefully) make into a sewing table. I have a Kreg jig and would like to use it to make the joints a bit cleaner. After my initial experience with it, the holes from the drill bit can be quite large. Does anyone with more experience have any insight as to whether that would be a good jointing method for this project?

Thanks!