There's nothing that gives your living room TV acceptability like a beautiful entertainment cabinet. This plan is for the side base cabinets, and works with the rest of the Tommy Collection.
1 - 1x10 @ 8 feet long
1 - 1x8 @ 18" long
2 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
3 1/2" Base Moulding
A) 2 - 1x10 cut at 29" (Sides)
B) 1 - 1x10 cut at 16 1/2" (Botton)
C) 1 - 1x8 cut at 16 1/2" (Shelf)
C) 1 - 1x2 cut at 18 3/4" (Back, Top)
D) 1 - 1x10 cut at 18 3/4" (Front, Top)
E) 1 - 1x2 @ 18" (top trim piece)
F) 2 - 1x2 @ 27 1/2" (Front side vertical trim pieces)
G) 1 - 29" x 18" Piece of Beadboard, stripes running the long way (Plywood for back)
H) 1 - 1x2 @ 15" (Bottom front trim piece)
I) 3' of Base Moulding, at least 3 1/2" high, on one side of the base and the front side For the Door:
J) 1 piece Beadboard at 14 3/4 x 22 1/4"
K) 2 - 1x2 @ 14 3/4"
L) 2 - 1x2 @ 19 1/4"
CUTTING LIST PER ONE CABINET - DOUBLE FOR 2 CABINETS
Start by "Building the box" Using the two side piece, A, the bottom pice, B, set up 3 1/2" as shown above, and the shelf, C, set up 12" from B. Keep the back edges flush. C will not extend all the way to the front. These instructions are illustrated above. Use glue and 2" nails.
Add the top piece, C, as shown above, leaving all of the overhang on one side. Make sure on the side that joins with the center of the Media Wall that there are no overhangs. The side cabinet will sit flush with the center of the Media Wall, as shown in the completed diagram.
Add the larger top piece, D, as shown above, following the guidelines in step 2. This is shown above.
Now add the front trim pices, as shown above. Start with piece E, keeping the edges flush with the sides of the cabinet. Then add pieces F to either side, keeping the outside edges flush with the sides of the cabinet. This is shown above.
Now add G to the bottom of the front, as shown above. Keep the bottom edges flush.
Use the same base moulding as you did for the center base cabinet in the Thomas Media wall. Only add base moulding to the 2 sides that will be open - the front and the side without the overhanging top. Remember to keep the one side that does not have an overhang on the top flush so that the side cabinet can sit up against the center unit.
Now it is time for the drawers. I highly recommend using a rounter and a drawer bit kit to build your doors. However, for those of you without a router and bits, you can build the door front as follows.
Attach the top and bottom rails to the plywood, using glue and nails smaller than 3/4" Nail through the beadboard (J) into the rail, piece K. This will hide your nails.
Add the stiles, as shown above. Again, use nails less than 3/4" to nail through the back of the beadboard into the back of piece L. Then, use 2 1/2" nails to nail through the top corner of L into K at the corners. This will join K and L. Do this on all four corners.
Fit the door inset in the cabinet with the appropriate hinges.