Reclaimed Wood Headboard, Queen Size

Submitted by Ana White on Mon, 02/05/2018 - 11:20
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Easy DIY planked wood headboard - no special tools required!  Free plans by


These beautiful photos are from the amazing Cynthia and Nicole. Simplicity and the beauty of soild wood come together in this headboard to transform a room. This project can be completed in just a few hours. Available in all standard bed sizes.

Easy to build, all you need is a saw and nails - you can even use a hammer and nails!  

Most builders are spending about $50 making this beauty.  Be sure to check out brag posts.  Thanks to our site users for sharing their photos.

Free plans follow!

57 1/4" x 65 1/2" - suitable for most queen sized mattresses


Shopping List

2 – 1×2 – 8′ Length

7 – 1×3 – 8′ Length

4 - 1×4 – 10′ Length

1 – 1×4 – 6′ Length

1 – 1×6 – 16′ Length

1 – 2×4 – 8′ or Stud Length

Common Materials
1 1/4 inch finish nails
2 inch finish nails
120 grit sandpaper
Cut List

6 - 1×3 @ 55″ (Fronts and backs of Legs)

2 – 1×2 @ 55″ (Inside of Legs)

5 – 1×4 @ 60″ (Panel Pieces)

3 – 1×6 @ 60″ (Panel Pieces)

4 – 1×4 @ 58″ (Panel Trim, Front and Back)

1 – 1×3 @ 64 1/2″ (Top Trim)

1 – 2×4 @ 65 1/2″ (Top of Headboard)

Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
General Instructions

Work on a clean level surface. Use necessary safety precautions. Measure and cut your boards to fit your piece – measurements given are for a perfect build, and you may find your headboard off a tiny bit. So on the trim and top pieces, measure to fit, using the given cut list as a approximate measurement. Use glue and check for square after each step.


Step 1

Legs. Begin building the legs by fastening the 1×2 middle piece to the 1×3 front leg piece, as shown above. To hide your nail holes, fasten for the 1×2 board into the back side of the 1×3 board. Keep outside edges flush.

Step 2

Panel Pieces. Starting on the top, fasten the panel pieces as shown above. The red pieces are 1×4 boards, the blue are 1×6 boards. Use 1 1/4″ nails and glue. Check for square. Hide your nail holes as you did in step 1.

Step 3

Back of Legs. Use 2″ nails and glue to fasten the back of the legs in place. Fasten to the panel pieces and the middle leg piece. Keep outside edges flush.

Step 4

Trim Pieces. Start by fastening the front trim pieces by using 1 1/4″ nails and nailing through the back into the back edge of the front trim. This will hide your nail holes. Then fasten the back trim in place using 2″ nails and glue.

Step 5

Step 6

Top Trim. As shown above, measure and cut your top trim piece. The distance will be the overall width of the headboard at this step. Keeping the top trim flush with the outer leg and the front of the headboard, use 2″ nails and glue to fasten in place.

Step 7

Top of Headboard. Cut the top of the headboard piece 1″ longer than the trim piece from step 6. Mark 1/2″ in from all sides. Center on top of the headboard and fasten in place with glue and 2″ nails.

Step 8

Finishing. Fill any visible nail holes with wood filler and sand and finish as desired. A bed frame can be attached by drilling holes in the fronts of the legs, and using bolts and nuts inserted in the slots open in the insides of the legs.


Rhonda Hughes (not verified)

Sat, 01/08/2011 - 04:34

Hi Ana,
My daughter turned me on to your site a few months ago. She talked me into getting her and her a husband a Kreg Jig for Christmas. (never even heard of one) I'm going to attempt this today, got my wood and had it cut last night. I'll upload a picture of it when I'm done. Thanks so much for sharing your plans!!!

Ana White (not verified)

Mon, 01/10/2011 - 10:18

Absolutely! Screws are just harder to hide. What you might consider is finish nails and a hammer for the front to hide your screws. Of course, if you are painting, this won't matter, as wood filler takes paint well.

P J (not verified)

Tue, 01/25/2011 - 17:38

I made this scaled down to fit a full size bed. Awesome, easy to follow plan. I did use screws, Cabinet or trim head. I added a runner to the back to help stabilize and prevent shifting of the planks.

Rhonda (not verified)

Wed, 01/26/2011 - 03:29

Here is the finished product. Being my first project, I was happy with the results and learned a few things along the way. First, don't buy cheap wood! Unfortunately, I did and ended up having to paint it instead of staining it like I wanted. Also, measure twice, cut once. My boards were a little warped, so I used some of the left over pieces and attached them to the back with screws so it drew in the boards to make them straighter. Thanks Ana!. Now I'm on to the next project.…

Sarah (not verified)

Sat, 01/29/2011 - 14:02

This may seem like a silly question, but I am having a hard time determining how you would prevent hitting where you have blind nailed when adding the outer pieces and trim, did you mark the places you nailed to avoid this?

Matt (not verified)

Thu, 02/03/2011 - 20:14

Seems I did. I didn't buy 1*2's. I ripped them myself out of old barn wood.

So, while I was wrong, I was also right. Someone who actually builds according to the numbers written in the instructions will have a problem. Someone who buys "1x2"s from Home Depot will be fine since it's not actually 1"x2" inches.

Maybe just some clarification would be helpful. Or, not being an idiot and actually doing the math yourself before you rip down all your barnwood :)

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