Rustic Table

Submitted by Ana White on Wed, 03/17/2010 - 19:52
Difficulty
Beginner
| Print this plan

A beautiful, easy to build table that features a 1x top simple legs. This table is designed to look like something one might find and treasure. Special thanks to our readers for sharing their photos with us.

Dimensions
96" x 36" x 30" high (approximate)

Preparation

Shopping List

4 – 2x2s, 8′ Long 4 – 1×4, 8′ Long 4 – 1×10, 8′ Long 1 – 2×4, stud length or 8′ length 2″ screws 1 1/4″ screws wood glue wood filler sand paper

Common Materials
120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Cut List

2 – 1×4 @ 90 1/2″ (Side Aprons) 2 – 1×4 @ 36″ (End Aprons) 8 – 2×2 @ 34 1/2″ (Under Tabletop Supports) 4 – 1×10 @ 96″ (Tabletop Pieces) 2 – 1×4 @ 29 1/4″ (Legs) 2 – 2×4 @ 29 1/4″ (Legs) 4 – 2×2 @ 12″, ends mitered at 45 degrees (cross supports)

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Circular Saw
General Instructions

Predrill and countersink your screw holes. Keep outside edges flush. Take a square after each step. Work on a clean level surface and use necessary safety precautions.

Instructions

Step 1

Table Top Supports and Apron. Build the tabletop supports and aprons as shown above. The supports are spaced 10″ apart. Use 2″ screws and glue, countersinking the screws.

Step 2

Tabletop Pieces. Take a square of the tabletop. Then find the centers of the tabletop supports and the end aprons and mark. Line up the center tabletop pieces with these marks and fasten through the bottom using 2″ screws and glue. Minimize the gap between the tabletop boards as you go.

Step 3

Tabletop Screw Hole Patterns. Mark out the screw holes on the tops of the table as shown above. Then predrill and screw the tabletop pieces to the end aprons. Make sure the table is square prior to doing this. Use the 2″ screws and glue.

Step 4

Legs. Fasten the legs to the aprons, as shown above. Do not use glue if you would like the legs removable.

Step 5

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
<p>
Fill nail holes with wood filler. Sand, distress, and finish as desired. Then send Ana your brag photos!</p>

Comments

annie (not verified)

Tue, 02/15/2011 - 07:50

my husband is currently making this table and we ran into the same problem as brad- he is adding a 1X6 in the middle as I wanted a little bit more of an overhang.

he also made the legs 4X4's and we went spendy on the table top. so far the approximate cost is $175dollars.

Kristy Burns (not verified)

Sun, 05/29/2011 - 10:18

What magazine is everyone talking about? I can't find anything on this page giving a name... It sounds fantastic though and something I'd like to get me hands on.

Josh Souder (not verified)

Fri, 12/02/2011 - 19:12

ok. I made it! it rocks!!!!! Just the table. I used 3 1/2 by 3 1/2 legs that screw into a screw in plate I put on the bottom. Problem... table wobbles! even when legs are screwed on as tight as possible. Now... there is nothing on the table yet, which will help. Is it just that it's 8 feet long? I mean, these legs are THICK! Please help!!!!! These legs HAVE to be removable for storage... thanks so much!

In reply to by Josh Souder (not verified)

MikeB

Fri, 12/02/2011 - 20:18

Can you determine which leg is the problem? Is one a little shorter then the rest on a level surface? By shorter, I mean, one side of the table may be a little out of square. If you used store bought table legs, I am sure they are all the same length.

Is it possible to put washers between the table and the plate to lower that plate enough to get the leg firm to the floor with the rest of the legs? Might be able to put washers on the thread of the table leg (between the plate and the leg) as a way to "test". If the washers are hidden, then just leave it. If not you may need to add the washer between the table and the plate. Hope this helps. Just throwing out ideas...

claydowling

Fri, 12/02/2011 - 20:21

If you add weight to the table you'll just change the frequency of the wobble.

Your problem is that the attachment isn't secure. If I understand what you've done correctly, you are trying to use a screw into end grain to secure the legs. That's not a secure joint.

There are a few ways to make a secure leg joint, and they all rely on mechanically making sure that it's impossible for the leg to move. I have a photo of one method I've used at knockdowndesk.com. I also talk a little bit there about some of the lessons I learned about making a secure leg joint, because my first efforts were not a raging success.

caronhjc

Wed, 12/21/2011 - 00:35

I would like to build this table and at the same time build the benches that go with it. Are there any specific plans that go to this Rustic Table? Please let me know. Thanks.

PA PA B

Wed, 06/27/2012 - 17:50

I have made the Providence table twice using the lumber in the plan However, the table tops (2x6) are not level with each other. I inspect the lumber at the yard. I do not have a planer, but the plans do not call for that tool.

What am I to do? or other words what am i doing wrong and how can i fix it?

emwins (not verified)

Mon, 07/09/2012 - 23:47

Hi Ana, thank you for making woodworking seem so accessible and affordable to all! This is my first EVER project, which I started in order to teach myself some basics- I am not a very detail-oriented person, and I thought carpentry would help me develop that attention to following steps! Well, it didn't work that well, and I ended up drilling all the planks for the top of the table from the top down, instead of bottom-up! I have screw tops all over my table, but since I used the countersink bit as instructed, there is enough of a space to fill it with wood putty. However, the wood putty looks awful and it got crumbly, I guess I should sand it down and re-fill it? Also, won't it look awful when I stain it and it's covered in funny-looking polka dots?
epic fail.
Obviously I am learning a lot as I go and the next time I attempt one of your projects I will read all of the directions through TWICE before attempting.
thank you!