Rustic X Console

Submitted by Ana White on Mon, 05/21/2012 - 09:08
Difficulty
Intermediate
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Build a rustic X console! Free step by step plans from Ana-White.com!

Hi everyone!

Did you have a good weekend?

I can't tell you more about my weekend just yet other than the fact that I'm pretty darn sore. A DIY life sure keeps you in shape, doesn't it?

I'll give you a hint - it has to do with 2x4s.

Lots of 2x4s.

Speaking of 2x4s - aren't they awesome????  So sturdy and strong and cheap, and for today's plan, beautiful!

Yep, those are 2x4 legs!!!!

My friend Hillary from The Friendly Home has been asking for plans for a substantially sized X Console like this one from another friend of mine's home - Kate from Centsational Girl:

Hillary and I worked really hard on this design to get it JUST right.  She wanted something a little more rustic, and I had received numerous other plan requests for an X console inspired by Pottery Barn's Belmont Buffet.  

And this is what we came up with!  Now I say we as in I just drew a plan up.  Hillary took a simple plan made up of 2x4s, 2x2s, 2x6s and 1x12s and turned it into a heirloom piece filled with heirlooms.

Like the beautiful handmade console, each of those quilts has a story too.  I encourage you to take a second to stop over to The Friendly Home and read more about Hillary building this console, the finish she used, and the story behind those beautiful quilts!

Dimensions
Dimensions are shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List

6 – 2x2 @ 8 feet long
3 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long
1 – 1x12 @ 12 feet long
3 – 2x6 @ stud length or 8 feet
Corner hardware/decorative bolts
1 1/4" and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws
2 1/2" screws

Cut List

12 – 2x2 @ 30”
6 – 2x4 @ 28 1/2"
2 – 1x12 @ 63 1/2"
5 – 2x4 @ 11 1/4"
2 – 2x2 @ 11 1/4"
2 – 2x2 @ 22 1/2" (long point to short point, ends parallel, cut at 60 degrees off square)
4 – 2x2 @ 11 1/4" (longest point to shortest point, long end cut at 60 degrees off square, short point cut at 30 degrees off square, angles are in same direction)
3 – 2x6 @ 74 1/2"

Cutting Instructions

NOTE: If your saw does not cut 60 degrees off square, you will need to mark cuts with an angle square or compass/protractor and cut angles with circular saw or jigsaw. Practice this cut first on scraps!

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Hammer
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Miter Saw
Power Sander
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

First build two frames as shown in diagram.

Step 2

Then attach frames to shelves. NOTE: I recommend drilling 3/4" PHs with Kreg Jig around all sides of each shelf for attaching all shelf trim with 1 1/4" PH screws later on.

Step 3

2x4 supports need to be the same width as your 1x12 boards - expected to be 11 1/4" wide. Attach to frames and shelves. For attaching to frames, use 2 1/2" PH screws through 1 1/2" PHs.

Step 4

And then just trim out sides of shelves.

Step 5

Step 6

And then add the top! You can build top first with 1 1/2" PHs and 2 1/2" PH screws and then attach to top through 2x4/2x2 aprons or just plank the top for a rustic look - it's up to you. TIP: Just use your 2 1/2" PH screw to attach the top so you don't have to go out and buy more 2 1/2" screws.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

Jake

Mon, 05/21/2012 - 20:00

What is a PH screw. I am sure I will feel stupid when you tell me but I have to ask.

In reply to by Jake

tracysmith

Tue, 05/22/2012 - 01:00

PH is short for Pocket Hole screw. They are specific screws made for a pocket hole system. No question is a stupid question on this site. We're all here to to help and encourage each other. Keep 'em coming!!!

IansMama

Thu, 07/25/2013 - 13:04

I posted a questions to this thread, however, I'm not sure you see it unless I reply directly to your post. I'm just wondering exactly how many pocket hole screws are used on each trim section attaching to shelves, and their approx. placement on the piece. Thanks so much!

Keri

Mon, 05/21/2012 - 21:37

I really do play on making this, but first I'm going to try out the finish on the (modified) loft bed that's sitting in my "workshop" (read:kitchen, at least until we get the garage set up right) waiting for me to finish sanding it. I was wanting something more "rustic" like this to match the idea I have for my boys room - almost like they could have been stranded in some jungle somewhere and this is their tree fort. Or at least fort....the tree part is a lot more work, or takes wall painting by someone more artistic than I. Thanks, "Anonymous Coward" for posting the directions!

Jake

Tue, 05/22/2012 - 04:04

Thanks TracySmith. I use my Kreg Jig all the time. In fact I just finished the frame for a new gate and it was built with PH joints. I learn something new every day.

jaime6891

Tue, 05/22/2012 - 09:28

I love it! I can't wait to get started on it during the long weekend. Great job!

Kathyy (not verified)

Tue, 05/22/2012 - 15:25

Showed this to my husband last night and he was as excited as I was . We have been looking for a console table and all I find are just not a good fit, but yours is perfect! Love your blog - the directions are great and we can't wait to get started!

annalea

Thu, 05/24/2012 - 15:33

Lots of compliments, too, but complements, first. Isn't there a way to cut the complement of the 60-degree angle? Maybe by cutting the board to the length it needs to be at the very point of the angled cut (the longest dimension), then turning the board 90-degrees and cutting a 30-degree angle? (90 - 60 = 30) That would create a 60-degree angle at the other end of the mitered cut. The sum of the angles of a triangle are always 180, and a mitered cut on the end of a board can be figured like a right triangle. 90 degrees is already taken for the right angle (which is a place you're not cutting), so the two angles left have to add up to 90.

I haven't run into the 50-degree limitation, so this is just a guess on a new way to use a saw . . .

But . . .

I do know, from sewing and paper piecing, that it's possible to turn and flip and do all kinds of crazy things with things you cut in order to get what you need at the end. ;o)

Hope this helps! (HTH!)