Serving Tray

Difficulty
Intermediate
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This is a serving tray that I made. Fairly simple to make. It has come in very handy. This tray is perfect for breakfast in bed on Mothers' Day or for birthdays. It is also helpful when grilling outdoors to carry out all the seasonings, meat, utensils, etc.

This is the template for the handles.

Dimensions
Overall 22.5" x 27" - see cutting list below for the parts shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List

1x12 - 2' (srap)

1x4 - 6'

1x2 - 2' (scrap)

.75" dowel = 26"

Common Materials
1 1/4 inch finish nails
Cut List

Cut List:
A – Qty=1-(bottom of tray from 1 x 12 board): 11.5” x 21” x .75”
B – Qty=2-(sides of tray from 1 x 4 board): 27” x 3.5” x .75”
C – Qty=2-(ends of tray from 1 x 2 board): 11.5” x 1.5” x .75”
D – Qty=2-(dowels for handles): .75” dowels cut to 13” length

General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

1. Transfer handle pattern to ends of side boards (B)-handle pattern on a one-inch grid shown below

2. Drill .75” holes in ends of side boards (B) per the pattern – tip: put a piece of scrap wood under the board that you are drilling to minimize “tear out” to the other side of the hole you are drilling.

3. Cut side board (B) to shape by using a jig saw

4. Thoroughly sand the board to smooth the edges that were cut in step 3

Step 2

5. Attach end boards (C) to bottom of tray (A) using glue and 1.25” nails make sure edges are flush.

Step 3

6. Glue dowels (D) into holes in side boards (B) and quickly glue and nail to the bottom (A) using 1.25” nails – tip: you should dry fit this together to make sure all is going to fit well before you apply glue. You want to attach dowels first, then attach to the bottom, but don’t let the glue set on the dowels so that you can make sure everything is squared up and flat before you nail to the bottom. (Clamps help, but glue and nails should be adequate)

7. Remove excess glue before it hardens – it sometimes helps to let the glue set for 15-20 minutes so you can remove it while it is still a bit rubbery.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
8. Sand, sand, sand to remove saw marks, soften edges and remove glue I usually start with 100 grit, then 200 grit, then 800 grit – to get that “soft as a baby’s behind” finish.
9. Add stain or paint



Finish Used
Black Cherry stain. A few coats of polyacrylic.

Comments

thisgirlkim

Fri, 04/08/2011 - 20:21

I love this!!  I've wanted a serving tray forever...so now it looks like I should make one!

Dianne (not verified)

Sat, 04/09/2011 - 05:11

This is beautiful!  Great job!  I've been thinking about making a tray and now I don't have to create a plan. :)  Thanks for sharing!

Guest (not verified)

Mon, 04/25/2011 - 19:00

This is perfect. I have wanted to make a tray and inset 9 tiles I bought in Mexico. I have looked at buying one for 7 years and could never find the right size. By making a few adjustments on the size of this tray, I will be able to have the perfect size tray. My project can be completed after all this time. Thank you for sharing these plans

In reply to by chjaway2

spiceylg

Thu, 07/21/2011 - 11:15

I think I'm going to recruit my hubby for this so we can knock out 10 or more of these for Christmas gifts this year! Gotta love it!

Larry (not verified)

Sat, 12/08/2012 - 14:31

thanks for posting this, very elegant version of a serving tray, yet simple, I plan to make several with either exotic woods of different colors or standard woods using colored stains, blues and reds.

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!