Shiplap Fireplace TV Stand

shiplap fireplace tv center
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Difficulty
Intermediate
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Free plans to build your own fireplace tv stand.  This plan is easy to customize to fit just about any size insert.  

With a front face of shiplap, this fireplace tv stand will give you the look of a shiplap fireplace bump out, with much less work and cost.  Can be installed permanently or freestanding in a room.

This is a free project plan, with step by step diagrams, instructions, shopping list and cut list.  This project plan is suitable for beginning to intermediate builders.

Shown with top wood mantle (optional)

Why We Love this Shiplap Fireplace TV Stand

A couple years ago, I built a shiplap fireplace tv bump out for a boring room with flat ceilings.  The project completely transformed the room and created a focal point.  It was and still is one of my favorite projects of all time!

fireplace tv bump out

See plans for full fireplace tv wall here

We've had quite a few requests for a version in a fireplace tv stand format, that could be built freestanding and moved into a room, that could be used unattached to the wall.  

I'm sorry it took me this long to get plans, but am super happy with this half height fireplace tv stand and glad to be able to share the plans below with you for free.

 

Features of this Fireplace TV Stand Project Plan

Why do we love this project?

  • Simple build, using common materials and minimal tools
  • The face is shiplap, to add texture and interest to a room
  • Freestanding, can be built independently and moved into a room
  • Does not need to be attached to the wall
  • Easy to modify to fit just about any fireplace insert
  • Open back to plug cords in, hide tv wires and controllers 
  • No need for a tv hanging bracket, tv can be set on top
  • Free step by step plans are easy to follow and designed for most people to tackle

fireplace tv stand

Free Plans to Build Your Own Fireplace TV Stand

The free plans to build this fireplace tv stand follow, thank you for using our plans!

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Shiplap Fireplace TV Stand

Dimensions
fireplace tv stand dimensions
Dimensions as shown for standard 30" x18-24" insert, but can be easily modified to fit almost any size insert

Preparation

Shopping List
  • Fireplace insert, this plan uses a 30" x 24" insert, but can be customized to fit 28-36" inserts with minimal changes, and for 40" or larger inserts, it is simple to adjust the plans, instructions detailed in the plans
  • 4 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long
  • 4 - 5-1/2" wide x 8 feet long shiplap pieces - this is approximate, depending on size of insert
  • 1 - 1x12 @ 12" long
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 8' long
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 8' long
  • Brad nails in 1-1/4" and 2" lengths
  • 2-1/2" long self tapping star bit screws (about 30)
  • wood glue

Boards are for common lumber, is using select pine, the shopping list can be reduced to reduce costs

Finger Joined 1x12 and MDF boards can be used for a more refined look.

Cut List
  • 4 - 2x4 @ 48" - framing, horizontal
  • 4 - 2x4 @ 33" - framing, vertical
  • Shiplap pieces cut to fit
  • 2 - 1x12 @ 36" - sides
  • 1 - 1x12 @ 49-1/2" - top
  • 4 - 1x2 @ 11-1/4" - side trim
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 51" - front trim
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 33-3/4" - front trim
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Drill
Circular Saw
Jigsaw
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander

Instructions

Step 1

Start by cutting and building the front framing with 2x4s.  Use the 2-1/2" screws to attach.

The inner 2x4 studs are spaced to match the rough opening requirements of your fireplace insert.

For a different sized fireplace tv stand, simply adjust the cut lengths of these 2x4s to fit your modification design.

Step 2

Carefully adjust the framing for square by taking opposite diagonal measurements and adjusting until the diagonals match.

Cover the front with shiplap using glue and 1-1/4" brad nails.

Cut out the shiplap as required by your fireplace insert.

NOTE: Try to center the opening on the horizontal shiplap joints, so the insert looks balanced, as shown in the diagram.

 

Step 3

Attach to the sides the 1x12s with glue and 1-1/4" brad nails.  If needed, add screws to further secure.

Step 4

Add the 2x4 back framing as shown with screws.

You can use these 2x4 boards to attach the fireplace tv stand to the wall if a fixed install is the goal.

Step 5

Measure and cut to fit the top 1x12.  Use glue and 1-1/4" brad nails to attach.  Further secure with a free screws if needed.

Step 6

Measure and cut the 1x2 side trim pieces and attach to the sides with glue and 1-1/4" brad nails.

Step 7

Measure and cut the 2x2s for the front.  

Attach with 2" brad nails and screws if needed.

Step 8

Measure and cut the 1x2 trim for the front corners.  Attach with glue and 1-1/4" brad nails.

Step 9

Follow the manufacturer's instructions to install the fireplace insert.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all nail and screw holes with wood filler and let dry.
Sand off any excess wood filler.
Sand the entire project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper.
Remove any sanding residue with a soft bristle brush on a vacuum.
Wipe clean with a damp, lint free cloth.
Finish Used
Prime and paint with a paint suitable for interior trim and cabinetry.

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!