Simple Bed [Full Size Bed Frame]

Submitted by Ana White on Thu, 07/18/2019 - 15:24
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Build your own full size bed and save up to 90%!

This beautiful full size bed is solid wood, made from standard 2x4s and other dimensional lumber. It is cleverly put together with just basic woodworking tools. This rustic design can work in both a girls or boys room.  Step by step plans include diagrams and shopping and cut list.  Anyone can build it!

We also have this bed plan available in a twin size version.

full size bed in mission style - plans by Ana White

Reader submitted photo by RLSAVARD 


Full Size Bed Plans

You can build your own full size bed and save a ton of money!  Our readers are spending under $100 on the bed WITH the bed frame (no box spring required).  We love that this bed is solid wood, so you can paint or stain it any color you choose. 

It's a solid, sturdy design, so it will last as long as you need it too.  This bed is perfect in a kids room or guest room. You don't need a box springs, and it fits a standard full size mattress.

Our free plans include step by step diagrams, shopping list and more!

If you build, please share a photo or two in a brag post.  It is most helpful and very exciting to see brag photos by you.

dimensions diagram for full size bed mission style plans
Simple Bed full size suitable for 75" x 54" mattress


Shopping List
  • 1 - 1x6 @ 6 feet long
  • 2 - 1x6 @ 10 feet long
  • 4 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long
  • 8 - 1x3 furring strips @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - 4x4 @ 8 feet long (cut both headboard posts from this board)
  • 1 - 4x4 @ 6 feet long (cut both footboard posts from this board)
  • 4 - 2x6 @ stud length or 8 feet
  • 4 - 2x4 @ stud length or 8 feet
  • 1 - 1/4" long brad nails (a couple hundred)
  • 16 - 5" long self tapping wood screws OR 2-1/2" pocket hole screws if you have a Kreg Jig
  • 50 - 2-1/2" long self tapping wood screws
Cut List


  • 2 - 1x6 @ 54"
  • 7 - 1x4 @ 30"
  • 12 - 1x6 @ 3-1/2"
  • 4 - 1x6 @ 4-1/4" (measure and cut to fit)
  • 2 - 4x4 @ 45"
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 63"


  • 3 - 1x6 @ 54"
  • 7 - 1x4 @ 22"
  • 12 - 1x6 @ 3-1/2"
  • 4 - 1x6 @ 4-1/4" (measure and cut to fit)
  • 2 - 4x4 @ 30-1/2"
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 63"


  • 2 - 2x4 @ 80" - cleats
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 51" - center support, top
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 70-75" - measure and cut to fit - center support, middle
  • 2 - 2x6 @ ~75" - measure and cut to fit for best fit
  • 13 - 1x3 @ 23 - 3/4" - shorter slats 
  • 14 - 1x3 @ 31-3/4" - longer slats
Cutting Instructions

Cut longest boards first.

Preferred method of cutting is a miter saw or chop saw or similar.

You can also substitute a circular saw, but use a straight edge or guide to help you cut square cuts.

DO NOT cut tiny pieces - instead, cut tiny pieces from a larger piece, so you can safely clamp the board while cutting.

The 4x4s will require a larger saw to cut.  If you do not have a larger saw, flip the 4x4 over and cut from the back side to finish the cut.

Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Circular Saw
Power Sander
General Instructions

With many beds, you may wish to prefinish the headboard, footboard and siderails before assembly.  Then you can move into the room for final assembly and not have to paint or stain in the room.


Step 1

Layout the pieces for the headboard panel.  Cut the end pieces to fit.

Glue and nail together with 1-1/4" brad nails.

NOTE: If you are using a Kreg Jig to join the panel to the legs in Step 2, carefully place nails so you can drill pocket holes (see next step) on the end 1x6 boards marked 4-1/4" long.

Step 2

Attach panel to the legs with either pocket holes (preferred) or 5" self tapping wood screws and glue.

Step 3

Attach 2x6 header with 2-1/2" screws and glue to the top of the headboard.

Step 4

Repeat steps to build footboard.

Add additional 1x6 trim to the inside of the footboard as this will be exposed in the final product.  Nail on with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.

Step 5

Cut cleats and attach to footboard, flush to bottom of 1x6 panel.  

Then attach to headboard legs.  Spacer blocks from scrap wood can help elevate the cleats while you work (or use clamps).

Step 6

Since this bed is a full size, center support is recommended.

Attach a 2x4 close to the top with 2-1/2" screws, two per joint.

Step 7

Add siderails to the cleats.

Step 8

Measure and cut the center support.  Place as shown in the bed (this is done offset to conserve wood when cutting the slats)

Step 9

Cut slats and lay in bed.  You can nail down (will be harder to remove later) or screw down (screws take longer to install and are more expensive but will be easier to remove).  Use a 1-1/4" to 2" long fastener.  Do not use glue as it will be impossible to disassemble without damaging the bed. 

To conserve fastners and time, I often will just nail the sides down and leave the center floating on the slats.



Mon, 03/16/2015 - 13:12

is there an alternative to the 1x6's? They are $7 a piece here even in pine and would greatly increase the estimated cost. Perhaps plywood cut and then a veneer edging added to hide it.

Noob Builder

Mon, 07/06/2015 - 07:37

Hi Ana,
What material do you recommend for this bed? I have a hard time finding 4x4 pine where I live, however 4x4 cedars are available from Lowes.. do you think it will work? And is it a good idea to mix the material (i.e. Cedar with Pine?) Thanks!!

Phil Shremshock

Sun, 08/16/2015 - 06:26

There are many ways to hide screw hole , one way is not to use screws at all but glue and use splines, dowels, or mortise and tenons. and for your bed rails use bedrail fasteners or bolts.

I will be adding a bed plan for a twin over full bunk beds with stairs and storage that I'm designing for a clients hunting/ mountain vacation cabin I just found this site when researching ideas for this project, and will share the plans once I finish seeing how no one seems to have done so on any site I've visited including my favorite of, of which I've been a member since 1982, yup before the internet and still have every copy of the magazine from then on . I love woodwork and blessed to do it as a living . Phil


Sun, 08/23/2015 - 17:34

Awesome bed!, love it. But, cannot find the plan for twin bed, can you please direct me to the link. 

Also which model of kreg jig should I buy ?



Sat, 03/12/2016 - 18:45

Can someone explain to me or maybe its just an error? Project calls for (7) 1x6x8. The cut list calls for a total of (8) 1x6x54.5" and (2) 1x6x75". My math and the offals I would have left does not jive. Should I just get some 1x6x10's to have less offal? Just want to make sure im thinking straight.


Sun, 11/20/2016 - 15:49

I'm sure you've figured this out already, but I just ran into this problem as well when I made the cuts for the bed today.  1x6x10' would solve it but I was already done with the cuts when I realized.  Had to run and grab 2 more boards and luckily I had a 1x8 in the shed I just ripped down to size on the table saw.  Those are the only errors I've found.  Good luck, everyone!


Sun, 01/08/2017 - 18:35

Ana I have been following your builds for a while and almost all of them are DEAD ON. 


this time I didn't plan it out right before buying. 


Your shopping list suggests buying (7) 1x6x8 when in fact it needs to be (10) 1x6x8 


 4 at 54 1/2 for the headboard (end up with 4 pieces at 41 1/2" of waste)

4 at 54 1/2 for the footboard (end up with 41 1/2" of waste)

2 at  75 for the side rails 


I am sure this was a typo. Let me know that I'm not crazy. It's turning out great otherwise !!!