Simple Modern Toy Box with Lid

Submitted by Ana White on Tue, 09/17/2019 - 10:54
Difficulty
Intermediate
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Free step by step plans to build a Land of Nod inspired toybox with hinged lid from Ana-White.com

white toy box
white toy box
white toy box
white toy box

My friend Jaime from That's My Letter asked me to design a simple, more modern toybox for her, with a lid, inspired by this one from Land of Nod.

And this is the DIY version!!!  I absolutely love how it turned out!!!

 

Jaime also added this beautiful monogram to the top - you can get more details on how she did that here.

 

 

Isn't it beautiful?  And of course you can build this toybox too with the plans following!

 

But please take a quick second to read Jaime's building post here - she's got everything covered from how she hides pocket holes to what type of hinges she used to how to make such a beautiful monogram.

 

Thanks Jaime!

 

Enjoy the plans!

XO Ana

Dimensions
toy box dimensions
Dimensions shown above

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 1 - 4x4 foot sheet of 1/2” thick hardwood plywood
  • 1 - 3/4” thick project panel 36” x 16”
  • 2 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long (need 1 more for optional top)
  • 1 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 1” and 1 1/4” pocket hole screws
  • Hinges and felt pads, possibly a hinge support to keep the lid from slamming shut or falling backwards
Common Materials
paint brush
Cut List
  • 2 - 1/2” plywood 12” x 12”
  • 2 - 1x3 @ 12”
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 12”
  • 2 - 1/2” plywood @ 12” x 32”
  • 2 - 1x3 @ 32”
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 32”
  • 4 - 2x2 @ 18 1/2”
  • 3 - 1x3 @ 13”
  • 1/2” plywood 33” x 13”
  • 1 - 3/4” thick project panel 36” x 16”

 

Optional top

  • 1 - 1x2 @ 33 1/2”
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 14”
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Jigsaw
Power Sander
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

TIP: Drill all 1/2” pocket holes first (basically, just drill 1/2” pocket holes around all sides of 1/2” plywood pieces) and then drill the 3/4” pocket holes so you don’t have to reset your jig multiple times.

I designed this toy box a little different - more like how I build doors - to conserve space inside, and keep it light, and also because 1/2" plywood (used for the panels) is so much easier to work with than 3/4". This means you'll need to use 1/2" pocket holes for attaching the 1/2" plywood (with 1" pocket hole screws), and then 3/4" pocket holes for attaching the 1x boards (1 1/4" pocket hole screws).

This type of construction requires very straight plywood cuts. Make sure you use a straight edge to guide your cuts or a Rip Cut is what I use.

It's a miracle tool.

Start by building your side panels. Make sure the side panel edges are flush and the two panels match. If not, you may need to trim the whole side panel edge down.

Step 2

Then build the two front and back panels.

Step 3

Attach side panels to legs.

TIP: Fill any pocket holes that you can now instead of later when it's tough to reach inside.

Step 4

And then the front and back panels to the side panels.

Step 5

Step 6

Then the bottom can rest inside. For even more support and to help square things up, I recommend attaching the plywood to the sides with 1/2" pocket holes and 1" pocket hole screws.

Step 7

Now cut the front edge out with a jigsaw. Sand the cut edge until smooth.

Step 8

Attach top - Jaime has more details on what type of hardware she used here. Remember, you'll want to take steps to prevent little fingers from getting pinched from the toy box top.

Step 9

If you want to add a top lip, you can do that too - for example, to place a top cushion on. Here's what I recommend but this is optional of course.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Help Improve This Plan

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Comments

fjohnson

Fri, 12/12/2014 - 11:25

Great plans. I am building one now. One thing in the plans I am not familiar with. The terms you use in the plans: (1/2" hole with 1" screws and 3/4" hole with 1 1/4" screws. The holes are all the same size with pocket holes fixtures. Kreg does not reference this dimension. What is it?

mikepattenson

Sun, 04/12/2015 - 19:59

Cut List:
2 - 1/2” plywood 12” x 12”
2 - 1x3 @ 12”
2 - 1x2 @ 12”
2 - 1/2” plywood @ 12” x 32”
2 - 1x3 @ 32”
2 - 1x2 @ 32”
4 - 2x2 @ 18 1/2”
3 - 1x3 @ 13”
1/2” plywood 33” x 13”
1 - 3/4” thick project panel 36” x 16”
Optional top
1 - 1x2 @ 33 1/2”
2 - 1x2 @ 14”

Very simple and basic cuts... I like this project!

For more projects like this, follow the resource below:

mikepattenson

Tue, 05/26/2015 - 16:16

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levita

Tue, 06/02/2015 - 10:16

excuse the dumb question, but can you please explain what a pocket hole is?
and, rather than use plywood, i am thinking of edge gluing some cedar planks - do you advise against that?

lungo

Thu, 10/01/2015 - 10:54

I just finished this last night. I built it for my sons first birthday. My wife saw it and now she wants another for the front room, where toys seem to accumulate. My only question was on the hinges. I bought some soft close cabinet hinges, but they are not strong enough to slow down the lid. I want to make sure he doesn't smash his fingers. I saw "That's My Letter" suggested torsion hinges, but to get enough in/lbs it would cost $50+, which is almost as much as I spent on the rest of the project. Does anyone have any suggestions on a less expensive way to make the lid soft close?

wellsec

Mon, 07/25/2016 - 06:08

The plans calls for a project panel for the top. What exactly is this? I went to my local store, but could not find anything. Any help would be great. Thanks

EM.BUELL@GMAIL.COM

Sun, 12/18/2016 - 20:13

How did you make the inside look more finished? Hide the pocket holes, etc.?

 

Open to ideas! We're considering fabric on the inside, but would love to hear what others have done.

 

Thanks,

Emily and Alex

coryjon

Mon, 03/27/2017 - 10:57

Hello!  It seems that when you attach the hinges, there will be a gap between the top of the chest and the lid.  Did you attach anything to support the front of the lid when it is closed due to this gap?