Stackable Fruit & Vegetable Storage Crates – Free DIY Woodworking Plan

free plans produce organizer
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Bring the charm of a farmer's market into your kitchen with these easy-to-build, stackable produce crates. Designed for both function and style, these wooden bins are perfect for organizing fruits and vegetables right on your countertop.​

Free woodworking plans include build photos, step by step diagrams, shopping list, cut list and more!

Why We Love This Project

  • Beginner-Friendly: Simple construction using basic tools makes it accessible for all skill levels.

  • Cost-Effective: Build each crate for approximately $3 using wood lath or 1x2s.

  • Stackable Design: Maximize your storage space by stacking multiple crates securely.

  • Customizable: Leave the wood natural for a rustic look or finish it to match your kitchen decor.

  • Food-Safe: Ideal for storing fresh produce, keeping it within easy reach

Free Plans Include:

  • Step-by-Step Instructions: Detailed guidance to walk you through the building process.

  • Shopping & Cut Lists: Clear lists to help you gather and prepare your materials.

  • Visual Aids: Photos from real builds to inspire and guide you.​

These crates have been built and loved by many in the Ana White community. They're not only practical for home use but also make great items to sell at craft fairs or online marketplaces.​

 

Modifications to this Plan

UPDATE: We've been using these vegetable storage crates for a few months and feel like there is not enough space between the two bins when stacked.  A very easy update is to notch the top front slat down with a jigsaw or just not add at all.

 

 

Build Using 1x2 Boards

Also, we've had quite a few people comment that they can't find wood lath, you can use regular 1x2s instead. And check out this stained version using 1x boards -

Built by our_home_to_yours on Instagram.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

How We Built these Stacking Produce Crates

To begin with, I went ahead and made all of my cuts using the compound miter saw.

 

There's quite a bit of cutting in this project, so having a easy way to cut helps save a ton of time.

 

 

I just attached the bottom supports to the two legs.

After that I attached the two legs together with some end slats. 

 

Just nail and glue to legs - I used 3/4" nails.

I did the same for both shorter sides.

 

And then I did the same for the longer sides.

For the bottom slats, you just need to set them inside the crate. This creates nice air flow to keep your fruits and veggies longer. 

 

It also allows for easy clean up should your apples go sour on you.

 

 

I couldn't wait to fill them with beautiful fruits and veggies! For some added charm I decided to make chalk labels. I cut small pieces of plywood and sprayed them with Rustoleum Chalk Paint, glued and nailed ( I recommend 1/2" nails) them onto the fronts and it was done!

   

These stackable fruit and vegetable storage crates were simple, simple, simple. 

 

 

And oh so cute! 

 

 

 

 

 

Dimensions
stacking produce bins kitchen wood
Dimensions for this vegetable storage crate are shown above

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 1 - 1 x 2 x 8
  • 5 - 4' wood lath pieces, usually comes in a bundle of 50 (you can also use 1x2s here or any scrap wood really)
  • This shopping list is for 1 crate. You will need to multiply by the number of crates you want.
Common Materials
3/4 inch finish nails
120 grit sandpaper
Cut List
  • 4 - 1 x 2 @ 6 1/2" Legs
  • 2 - 1 x 2 @ 13 3/4" Bottom supports between legs
  • 6 - Wood Lath Pieces @ 8 3/4" end slats
  • 6 - Wood Lath Pieces @ 15 3/4" side slats, or cut to fit
  • 8 - Wood Lath Pieces @ 8 3/4" inside bottom slats

This is the cut list per crate. Depending on how many stacking crates you want, you need to multiply by that number.

Tools
Tape Measure
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Build legs. Drill pocket holes in the bottom of the longer 1 x 2's on each side. Attach to shorter 1 x 2's (legs) with 1 1/4" PH screws and glue.

Step 2

Attach End Slats with 3/4 inch nails and wood glue. Notice to start 2 1/2" from bottom, which will put the top wood lath slat above the top of the 1 x 2

Step 3

Attach the side slats the same way 3/4" nails and glue. I cut to fit after have the end slats holding the legs together.

Step 4

Set slats in bottom of crate. No need to glue and nail for easy removal.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

imortison

Mon, 09/01/2014 - 22:32

Hi Ana, I really love this idea. Thanks so much for sharing! I plan to make this as my starter project.
I have Howard Cutting Board Oil at home, is it OK to use it for the last finish?
and may I ask what is the other name of 'wood lath pieces'? I searched it in the big box store but couldn't find it. I appreciate it very much!

NinaQuinoa

Fri, 09/26/2014 - 21:47

Thank you for such an amazing plan. I have searched for the wood lath pieces at Home Depot but could not find them. I wonder if you can share where you got them.

Thank you vey much.

 

LauraP

Sun, 04/12/2015 - 07:50

Hi Nina:

I ran into the same problem you did although I know I did buy lathe/lattice at one Home Depot in the moulding section but it was expensive at $1 a foot. Anyway, when I went searching this time, I couldn't find it. So I asked an employee, and he told me they give it away for free because they use it as the separators for their long pieces of wood. So basically, I went around the store and picked up all the bits of lathe on the floor which resulted in a nice little stash. It's not as smooth as the lathe I bought but a sanding will help.

crystalfarnam

Sat, 07/25/2015 - 13:36

This for sure wasnt a cheap project...... :(   I couldnt find wood lath pieces at Home Depot so I had to go to lowes and used Poplar craft wood. Which cost a crap ton...... First time I will say not the bet instructions and cost is too high.. 

mommyof2cuties

Tue, 06/07/2016 - 13:14

I found wood lath at Home Depot. I have to say, it wasn't easy to locate in the store & I had to ask a couple of employees. I bought a bundle of 50 pieces for about $16. They are pretty rough. My suggestion would be to sand them after you cut your pieces (before you assemble). I'm building some of these today because I have lots of lath left over from another project ☺. Hope that helps anyone who had the lath issue. 

Kiesoj

Mon, 08/01/2016 - 11:58

I am looking at making these, and beefing them up, for I can use them in the garage to help keep some of my specialty tools organized that did not come with a case or a bag. Now I have read and understand the concern when it comes to obtaining decent lath boards. Here's my fix for obtaining quality lath boards. I simply break out the table saw buy some 2x4s and make my own. Also when picking out required lumber for a project the last place I go to is Home Depot.  If your Home Depot  is anything like mine it's a sorry excuse for a store(lots of problems getting help from their employees), and especially the lumber yard with a poor selection of bad lumber. I went through a whole stack of 2x4s with a group of Boy Scouts that were working on an Eagle Scout projest for a local church and everything in the pile was bad(warped, cracked, broken, or was outside run with the bark still on). They wouldn't even bring down a fresh pallet to choose from. That was not an option to them. Only choice we had was the the pallet of discards on the floor.  I also found it is more expensive to buy by the foot at Home Depot than going across the street to Lowe's and buying a whole board.  Now if I am helping boild or building something special (Eagle Scout Project for example), I don't go to the big box stores I choose to go to the local home store that specializes in lumber.  Just my 2cents.

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!